E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

PerryGunn · Jul 5, 2013

Due to PhotoBucket's removal of their 3rd party image hosting facility without paying exorbitant fees, I've recreated the how-to using forum-hosted images

As there is a limit to the number of images that can be attached to each post, I couldn't just edit this first post and insert the new images, so I've had to split it into two posts that are now on page 2 of this thread

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Perry

edd_jedi · Sep 12, 2013

Just wanted to say that I found this very useful today while sorting out my damaged weather membrane

Chazaxl · Sep 16, 2013

Just bought a Z4 and was thinking of doing this. Was it worth the effort to sound deaden?

PerryGunn · Sep 16, 2013

Chazaxl said:
Just bought a Z4 and was thinking of doing this. Was it worth the effort to sound deaden?

Everyone who's put in the sound deadening seems to think it's been a worthwhile exercise

Chazaxl · Sep 16, 2013

PerryGunn said:
Chazaxl said:

Just bought a Z4 and was thinking of doing this. Was it worth the effort to sound deaden?

Click to expand...

Everyone who's put in the sound deadening seems to think it's been a worthwhile exercise

Thanks - will be doing the same - considering doing some over the floor too - it can only help.

gingertosser · Sep 16, 2013

i dont think the sound deadening in the airbag exit in the door card was a good idea but nice Wright up

PerryGunn · Oct 20, 2013

gingertosser said:
i dont think the sound deadening in the airbag exit in the door card was a good idea but nice Wright up

It should be fine as long as you keep the deadening in two halves (either side of the fracture line) so it doesn't inhibit the panel splitting should the airbag go off

Spikey · Oct 20, 2013

Very useful post - ill keep this one tagged for the future ( when I get brave enough)

EJL · Jan 23, 2014

Great post - hope to do this in the future!

RenoRaines · Mar 26, 2015

PerryGunn said:
In the 6-speaker stereo, the tweeter in the triangle above the door receives a full range signal and there is an in-line capacitor close to the tweeter to create a high pass filter - this is the black heatshrink-wrapped blob to the left of the tweeter in this photo.

Help me a bit here.

Looking at wiring diagram it shows that signal for tweeter and front woofer are shared. And rear mid range speaker (behind your head) is alone on channel.
Another thing that puzzles me;
Base 6 speaker system:
Tweeter 4 Ohm
Footwell Woofer 2 Ohm
MID range rear 4 Ohm

If I understand correctly you've added a pair of 4 Ohm speakers on front Tweeter/Woofer channel? So you've split the resistance?

EDIT:
After calculating you haven't altered ohm load much. Probably that's why the system still works although it's a bit more strain for radio's amp to drive 2 additional speakers.

Resistance of original setup would have been 1,3 Ohms. With added speakers you get Ohm load of exactly 1 Ohm.

PerryGunn · Mar 26, 2015

RenoRaines said:
Looking at wiring diagram it shows that signal for tweeter and front woofer are shared. And rear mid range speaker (behind your head) is alone on channel.
Another thing that puzzles me;
Base 6 speaker system:
Tweeter 4 Ohm
Footwell Woofer 2 Ohm
MID range rear 4 Ohm

If I understand correctly you've added a pair of 4 Ohm speakers on front Tweeter/Woofer channel? So you've split the resistance?

Effectively another 4ohm speaker has been wired in parallel with the 4ohm tweeter this gives an effective resistance the same as a 2ohm speaker or, to look at another way, it's the same as replacing the tweeter with an aftermarket 2ohm unit

This means that the amplifier will be delivering twice the current but the effective SPL will be +3db which is a doubling of SPL (assuming identical speakers) so you would require less current to achieve the same SPL as the original config i.e. you'd have the volume knob turned down a bit.

At the end of the day, lots of people had done this before me and it doesn't seem to have caused any issues for anyone

RenoRaines · Mar 26, 2015

The other thing to consider is of course the current. I would like to continue the story. So front speakers are driven from the same channel. Instead of adding front speaker would it be able to add 2 bass speaker in the rear. Rear channel speakers are "alone" on the channel. Could you simply add 2 OEM (2 Ohm from HiFi option for instance) speakers on the back using the existing channels?

PerryGunn · Mar 27, 2015

RenoRaines said:
The other thing to consider is of course the current. I would like to continue the story. So front speakers are driven from the same channel. Instead of adding front speaker would it be able to add 2 bass speaker in the rear. Rear channel speakers are "alone" on the channel. Could you simply add 2 OEM (2 Ohm from HiFi option for instance) speakers on the back using the existing channels?

I believe that people have tried this before but with limited success. The consensus seems to be that, once you get past adding the door speaker and possibly replacing the footwell woofer & door tweeter with better-quality units, you should be looking at an amplified setup.

SamUK · May 6, 2015

Great, just what i was looking for..

I am installing new 4" components and 6.5" Mid Bass Speakers on the weekend

Amp & Jl Clean Sweep in the following Weeks (powering the 4" & 6.5" speakers - in the interm these will be powered via the head unit.

So my question:

My 4" components have Cross overs with them, would i simply remove the wire from the existing 4" speaker and connect this to the cross over - then take new wires from the cross over to the new 4" & new tweeter

How much of the inner door were you able to get through the holes? is it near the size of the hole or covering a bigger area inside?

I wonder if its worth putting on on the outer part of the door were the weather proof thing goes on?

PerryGunn · May 7, 2015

SamUK said:
Great, just what i was looking for..
My 4" components have Cross overs with them, would i simply remove the wire from the existing 4" speaker and connect this to the cross over - then take new wires from the cross over to the new 4" & new tweeter

The standard 6-speaker setup doesn't have the 4" door speakers (just space/mounting points for them) - you'd take the feed to the door tweeter and connect it to you crossover (this feed is full range) and then connect your new speakers to the crossover.

SamUK said:
How much of the inner door were you able to get through the holes? is it near the size of the hole or covering a bigger area inside?

You can cover the majority of the outer doorskin through the holes, there comes a point where it narrows down and you can't get your fingers in far enough to press teh sheets down but you can use a flat trim tool to get a bit further

SamUK said:
I wonder if its worth putting on on the outer part of the door were the weather proof thing goes on?

If you wanted to add some mass to the inner doorskin, you could add silentcoat to the rear of the inner panel (the one with the holes in it) - not sure how much it would help as this panel is mostly 'hole'

SamUK · May 7, 2015

I was thinking about this all night, and this morning finally checked..I have no 4" in the door..only tweeter... lol so its a 3 way system

So i could potentially swap out the 6.5" mid bass speakers now..

However not sure if i can install the new 4" components and run without an amp..or you think i will be ok?

do i cut the capacitor out? as in your picture?

PerryGunn · May 7, 2015

You should be able to add the new 4" as the OEM HU doesn't seem to have any issues with powering the extra speaker.

If you're just going to add the new 4" and planning to tap into the tweeter feed to provide a feed to the new speaker (i.e. without your new crossover), you'll want to leave the in-line capacitor alone.

If you're going to add your new crossover when you add the 4" speaker, you might as well replace the tweeter at the same time (presume you'll add your own wiring between crossover and tweeter so the in-line capacitor won't be an issue)

SamUK · May 7, 2015

So leave the capacitor in place? just extend the wires from the tweeter to the crossover?

I will be adding the crossover, 4" speaker & new tweeter.

Do you know which color wire is positive & negative on the original tweeter?

PerryGunn · May 7, 2015

SamUK said:
So leave the capacitor in place? just extend the wires from the tweeter to the crossover?

I will be adding the crossover, 4" speaker & new tweeter.

If you're adding your new tweeter, just disconnect the old one at the loom plug (the capacitor is part of the tweeter & connecting wire unit), then run new wires from your crossover to your new tweeter & 4" speaker

SamUK said:
Do you know which color wire is positive & negative on the original tweeter?

IIRC, I worked it out from looking at the tweeter - I can't remember exactly but there is usually a mark or coloured dot indicating the +ve terminal

igeak691 · Oct 25, 2015

Bump to an old thread, and a huge thanks to the OP for showing how to add the sound deadening. Totally worth it to do, and took me just under 2 hours to do both sides. It was clear that my passenger door never had its panel removed before, while I think the drivers door has been into a few times. Y'know, it's loose and not tight

[youtube]Oe6GOTybE1U[/youtube]

E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

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