Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

brittas
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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by brittas » Wed Mar 03, 2010 8:45 am

I have just completed my service as I didn't trust the 'service' from the 2nd hand car place I bought it from.Using E bay I have aqquired 6X iridium plugs,8L of edge 0W 40 sport oil, K and N panel filter,K and N oil filter...grand total £130 ..oh and the 36MM socket cost £10.

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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by shongololo » Sat Mar 20, 2010 11:28 am

good write up mine is due a an oil service so might do this. Is the service reset the same for all models? mines a 2006?

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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by shongololo » Sat Mar 20, 2010 11:29 am

brittas wrote:I have just completed my service as I didn't trust the 'service' from the 2nd hand car place I bought it from.Using E bay I have aqquired 6X iridium plugs,8L of edge 0W 40 sport oil, K and N panel filter,K and N oil filter...grand total £130 ..oh and the 36MM socket cost £10.
I use K&N on my bike .....good filters

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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by bigshurv » Sat Mar 20, 2010 3:22 pm

Nice write up.Bet the missus loved you for using her best tea towel to clean the sump plug..... :D

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sk93
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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by sk93 » Tue Mar 30, 2010 12:29 pm

bigshurv wrote:Nice write up.Bet the missus loved you for using her best tea towel to clean the sump plug..... :D
dishwasher tablet, WD40,an overnight soak then a normal wash with vanish.
That's the same teatowel I've used to work on my car for about two years now :thumbsup:

Plus, the current lady is a carnut who actually suggested putting the table in the kitchen, so we would have enough room in the dining room to rebuilt the top end of my bike ;)
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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by PawnSacrifice » Tue Mar 30, 2010 1:30 pm

sk93 wrote: Plus, the current lady is a carnut who actually suggested putting the table in the kitchen, so we would have enough room in the dining room to rebuilt the top end of my bike ;)
I think I may have said this before, but she's what we'd call "a keeper" :P
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sk93
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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by sk93 » Tue Mar 30, 2010 1:48 pm

PawnSacrifice wrote: I think I may have said this before, but she's what we'd call "a keeper" :P
haha - certainly is from my p.o.v :D
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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by shongololo » Fri Apr 02, 2010 1:45 pm

Excellant, just done mine. Son was spanner monkey.

Good write up.

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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by Shipkiller » Fri Apr 02, 2010 5:50 pm

One other optional step you can do to fend off oil starvation at initial start-up.

After you put the drain plug back in the oil pan, and before you put the oil filter cartridge in, pour some new oil on the cartridge, put the cartridge in and pour the rest of the bottle into the oil filter cartridge housing. This will minimize the the small amount of start-up starvation that happens after a oil change. It takes a finite amount of time for the oil pump to pressurize the system and allow oil to flow through the filter, and onto the rest of the system.
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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by DannyBoy » Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:45 pm

Good write up.

I have just used the guide section to complete the oil change, change the air filter, clean the MAF sensor, change all the spark plugs and finally clean the DISA. Was good fun and got to save paying £300 to BMW for the pleasure! As I was feeling frisky I also poured in a full bottle of redex so we shall see if the tragic 22.2mpg rises to over 25mpg.

So far I note the car is perkier, revs better and seems to have more low down torque. Only done 10 miles but definately nicer to drive and more responsive during the low end of the rev range.

MPG is where its at and I am keen to see a long overdue improvement!

Anyway, thanks again for the guide! :thumbsup:
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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by volvos60 » Mon May 10, 2010 12:51 pm

This is great.

Problem is that you mention checking the oil level with the dipstick as you refill to bring it up to level before you start the engine, as would be normal practice.

My 3.0 Z4 has no dipstick, it has an oil level readout on the instrument panel whcih only gives the oil level after the engine has been running, Any idea how to work around this as you would not want to run the engine until you know you have a decent oil level - catch 22?

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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by Garthan » Mon May 17, 2010 4:06 pm

Excellent documentation... i'm going to change oil of my car but i've a stupid question:

how long did you wait to flow out the oil from the engine into the bucket? 24hours? ... or can i wait a few hours?
thanks and sorry again for the stupid question :oops:

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Mattt
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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by Mattt » Mon May 17, 2010 4:22 pm

Should be a matter of minutes.

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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by cj10jeeper » Mon May 17, 2010 5:17 pm

I like this write up and as evidenced by the comments helped a lot of people.

One tip I'd add:

If you undo the sump plug first before the oil filter and removing the rocker cap, then the oil will not flow out fast all over your hand while you undo the sump plug as it cannot drain freely. Secondly the oil will drain partly out of the filter bowl reducing mess and have longer to drip out while you do the other jobs.

Warming the engine up is more important than just making the oil flow as it gets all the dirt back into suspension and not left to be washed around in your nice clean oil
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Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter

Post by Gorbash12346 » Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:44 pm

Shipkiller wrote:One other optional step you can do to fend off oil starvation at initial start-up.

After you put the drain plug back in the oil pan, and before you put the oil filter cartridge in, pour some new oil on the cartridge, put the cartridge in and pour the rest of the bottle into the oil filter cartridge housing. This will minimize the the small amount of start-up starvation that happens after a oil change. It takes a finite amount of time for the oil pump to pressurize the system and allow oil to flow through the filter, and onto the rest of the system.
i can't say that this is needed yes it gives piece of mind but it's not recommended in the repair instructions by bmw and the M54 and N52/3 have never really had any issues with bearings, if your really being anal about it remove the spark plugs and pull the fuse for the injectors crank it over for about 20 seconds a few times to get oil up into the head and saturate the oil filter element,

also i think you should mention that checking the oil level while the car is jacked up isn't such a great idea as it needs to be on flat ground..

as for the oil adding if you have allowed the car to drain with the oil filter removed until there is nothing more than a small drip from the sump drain the amount needed is excactly 6.5 litres on the dot

hope this helps :thumbsup:

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