Potential Parasitic Draw 2003 2.5L

shortfuse 2 · Post by **shortfuse 2** » Thu Dec 05, 2013 9:34 pm

its better to lock the car then everything is shut down

Z4Will · Post by **Z4Will** » Sat Dec 28, 2013 5:28 pm

Headed to the stealership to pick up a FSR today, the parts manager said they sell quite a few

. $180 for some peace of mind. I'm sure I could find it cheaper but oh well. I will install it shortly and update if this fixes the issue..

Z4Will · Post by **Z4Will** » Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:18 pm

Ok, so I got a wonderful discounted rate on the FSR due to a mistake at the dealership. 60$ for OEM can't beat that! Now how do I get this bad boy in there? I have found several instructionals from the E46 but I have yet to find some good information on how to do it on a 2003 Z4. Their definitely different. I did manage to read on one forum that I will need to remove the glove box and apparently the cd/radio receiver as well to get access to it? Does anyone know anything about this? I'll keep searching in the meantime.

Z4Will · Post by **Z4Will** » Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:25 pm

Ok! Nevermind on how to install it. I figured it out. I also found it appalling that I couldn't find any nice images other than a goofy black and white autocad looking image. So I took the liberty of taking pictures of the location of the FSR in a 2003 BMW Z4. The procedure was quite simple. I'll put it here quite vaguely. The pics should be relatively self expanatory. Remove the glove box, remove fsr, insert fsr, insert glove box. GTG!!!!

0. Disconnect Negative battery terminal.

1. Remove screws for glovebox.

2. Remove screws for panel below glovebox.

3. Gently pull on plastic parts after screws are removed.

4. You should have access to the part at this point, there is a little vent (seen in the picture) that you just have to move downwards a bit, it pops right on and off, in order to access to FSR.

5. The FSR is connected by one philips screw on the right. Im glad they didn't put one on the left side because that would have been fun

6. Remove screw and FSR while still connected, gently pull it out and squeeze the harness to detach from the FSR.

7. Reverse Process.

Z4Will · Post by **Z4Will** » Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:33 pm

Z4Will · Post by **Z4Will** » Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:37 pm

Hopefully this will fix my parasitic draw, I will confirm it soon. If not I still somewhat suspect the DISA valve, I know I rebuilt it but I am still suspicious.

Ashz4lane · Post by **Ashz4lane** » Sat Oct 13, 2018 11:34 pm

Will,

Did you manage to resolve the draw issue? I’m experiencing the same problem on my Z4.

Thanks

Ash

Smartbear · Post by **Smartbear** » Sat Oct 13, 2018 11:50 pm

Ashz4lane wrote: ↑Sat Oct 13, 2018 11:34 pm Will,

Did you manage to resolve the draw issue? I’m experiencing the same problem on my Z4.

Thanks

Ash

Hi, Will last logged in Jan 2014 so you might have a wait before he sees your request!

Rob

Jl-c · Post by **Jl-c** » Sun Oct 14, 2018 5:03 pm

Very old post but someone may find this usefull?
Just as a note, if you disconnect the earth NOT positive and put a multimeter on 10Amps range (note connections to the meter for current measurement are usually different to normal Volts Ohms etc) between earth and the earth terminal ie. the meter becomes the earth lead then you will trace dark current (this is spurious draw that can flatten a battery) note also, if your battery is 80Ah then it will take an 8A draw to flatten it in ten hours or 16A in five hours etc to kill it. Most courtesy lamps are 5W so 5=12 x X, X being Amps so about 416mA draw from your battery so it would take 190.5 hours or so to flatten your battery to a dead state. You also need to know that a battery that can't start a car is not necessarily flat, just unable to supply sufficient current to turn the starter motor. DO NOT start or try to start the car with a meter in circuit, you will destroy the meter, most have a maximum current capacity of 10A! Run the meter cables out of the boot and close it. Lock the car and watch the meter. If it stays on zero after the draw for locking, change to a lower range, usually 400mA and see if anything is reading now. Normal is up to about 50mA with everything off and locked. This will be alarm, clock, etc.

ph001 · Post by **ph001** » Sun Oct 14, 2018 5:36 pm

Current draw of that order (and the buzzing noise at the lower front of the car) on N52 vehicles is likely to be the water pump continually running. It’s come up before.

Mike6 · Post by **Mike6** » Sun Oct 14, 2018 5:46 pm

I never lock my car when its in the garage as I think setting the alarm will drain the battery in due course. I have disconnected the bulb in the boot as I leave the lid up a bit for the trickle charge leads. Are you sure its not one of the bulbs staying on which is draining your power.

firebobby · Post by **firebobby** » Sun Oct 14, 2018 6:28 pm

I lock my car when in the garage and shut the boot with the Ctek connected. The boot rubber seal doesn't damage the cable.

Jl-c · Post by **Jl-c** » Mon Oct 15, 2018 8:41 am

^^^^^ +1!

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