Black soot coming out of exhaust

[enuff_zed]

The air filter is definately ok, it's dry and clean.
I had a friend look at all the plastic hoses and pipes etc and he said everything looks brand new and definately doesn't look like any problems there. He queried if it could just be short journeys? At the min I'm mostly just driving 7 miles each way to work a day. Could it be that?

Possibly, if it never gets a long run?
But hey, a blast up the road from Diss to Attleborough should help that, and you'd go home with lots of new worries about codes you never knew you had.
We're considering a run to Southwold over the weekend. Don't suppose you'd fancy meet up there?

[Rachel!!!!]

Continual short drives are not good for a car. It does not really get up to optimum temperature. I would get the car scanned as you have planned per OP. But I would also make sure to run "high test" gas in it if you have not been doing it. There are also additives you can add to your tank of gas to help clean out any sludge from the short trips. Would take it for a long spirited run after doing these things. Good luck with your issue.

I've always used Shell or BP fuel and on the last 2 fill ups I've gone for the Shell V Power so I will stick with that, I also put in a fuel system cleaner and took it on a good run and it did seem to help but didn't last. Now the lockdown restrictions have eased I'll be driving further again so if it is the short journeys hopefully it will sort itself out.

[Rachel!!!!]

[/quote]
Possibly, if it never gets a long run?
But hey, a blast up the road from Diss to Attleborough should help that, and you'd go home with lots of new worries about codes you never knew you had.
We're considering a run to Southwold over the weekend. Don't suppose you'd fancy meet up there?
[/quote]

I only just saw this message, I wasn't ignoring the invite to Southwold if you've gone today it's a lovely day for it, my roof was down on the way home from work.
In normal times it would be driven on longer journeys more regularly but with lockdown the last few months mostly has just been my drive to work.

[enuff_zed]

Possibly, if it never gets a long run?
But hey, a blast up the road from Diss to Attleborough should help that, and you'd go home with lots of new worries about codes you never knew you had.
We're considering a run to Southwold over the weekend. Don't suppose you'd fancy meet up there?
[/quote]

I only just saw this message, I wasn't ignoring the invite to Southwold if you've gone today it's a lovely day for it, my roof was down on the way home from work.
In normal times it would be driven on longer journeys more regularly but with lockdown the last few months mostly has just been my drive to work.
[/quote]
Cheers, we didn't go. Ended up pottering in the garden. Bet Southwold was packed anyway. Once things normalise, I reckon the Norfolk bunch may be getting together again for a run out. Failing that, a meet up and blast to the coast is always a welcome event.

[Rachel!!!!]

An update after getting the code reader on it. No fault codes were stored that have anything to do with the issue (there were a couple of others)
We got some readings which mean nothing to me so no idea if normal or not. I will list them below so any help would be much appreciated.

Before cat reading of 2.0, after the cat 0.7
Oxygen sensor readings at idle - additional mixture 1: 0.2 Additional mixture 2: 0.55
At 2500 rpm 0.06 and 0.11
With the MAF disconnected readings were the same
Multiplicative mixture 1: -3.63 Mixture 2: -0.42

Cylinders true running value at idle
1: between -10 and -20
2: +25 to +35
3: -30 to -50
4: +15 to +30
5: +70 to +80
6: -70 to -90

[enuff_zed]

An update after getting the code reader on it. No fault codes were stored that have anything to do with the issue (there were a couple of others)
We got some readings which mean nothing to me so no idea if normal or not. I will list them below so any help would be much appreciated.

Before cat reading of 2.0, after the cat 0.7
Oxygen sensor readings at idle - additional mixture 1: 0.2 Additional mixture 2: 0.55
At 2500 rpm 0.06 and 0.11
With the MAF disconnected readings were the same
Multiplicative mixture 1: -3.63 Mixture 2: -0.42

Cylinders true running value at idle
1: between -10 and -20
2: +25 to +35
3: -30 to -50
4: +15 to +30
5: +70 to +80
6: -70 to -90

Was good to meet you Rachel. Unfortunately my expertise only runs to reading out what the code reader screen says.
Hopefully someone can give us more info?

Just to add that Rachel's car is returning around 31mpg, mostly on short commutes.
It runs beautifully, no rattles, no hunting, no signs of air leaks.
In fact no indication that anything is wrong except for lots of small splashes over the bumper and boot, above the exhaust. These are almost watery looking and grey in colour, not thick and black as I'd expect if it were oil.
With the engine idling I put my hand across the exhaust for about 30 seconds and it came away dry. So maybe something that happens at higher revs? Or only after a long time of running? Or maybe the 40 minutes run to my place was enough to clear it out?

Interested to hear everyone's thoughts?

[Zulu4]

Did a lot of water get squirted into the exhaust pipe when washing it at some point ?

[enuff_zed]

Did a lot of water get squirted into the exhaust pipe when washing it at some point ?

Would have to be a lot! It's been doing it since February!

[Crazy Harry]

I've learnt over the last thirty odd years that one of the delights of Norfolk and Suffolk is no motorways or good 'A' roads but plodding around the lanes or sitting in traffic brings other problems.

I finally got rid of recurring O2 sensor codes by taking the Zed over to visit my Mam in Manchester via the Snake - and I 'drove it like I stole it' all the way there and back mostly in fourth and fifth with a heavy right foot. Great advice from the forum - never enjoyed doing a job so much!

If its not throwing codes and all the outwards signs are that the engine is healthy then 'use' it and clear all the sh1t from the system. Can't remember if its a daily from your posts but if its doing the commute and just getting warm (not really hot) then in the cool weather everything condenses as it cools and any soot (un-burnt fuel) gets washed out next time it starts. If its an auto (did you say?) in traffic its not going to rev hard and generate any heat where some of us might drive a manual a little harder in town.

[enuff_zed]

I've learnt over the last thirty odd years that one of the delights of Norfolk and Suffolk is no motorways or good 'A' roads but plodding around the lanes or sitting in traffic brings other problems.

I finally got rid of recurring O2 sensor codes by taking the Zed over to visit my Mam in Manchester via the Snake - and I 'drove it like I stole it' all the way there and back mostly in fourth and fifth with a heavy right foot. Great advice from the forum - never enjoyed doing a job so much!

If its not throwing codes and all the outwards signs are that the engine is healthy then 'use' it and clear all the sh1t from the system. Can't remember if its a daily from your posts but if its doing the commute and just getting warm (not really hot) then in the cool weather everything condenses as it cools and any soot (un-burnt fuel) gets washed out next time it starts. If its an auto (did you say?) in traffic its not going to rev hard and generate any heat where some of us might drive a manual a little harder in town.

Sound advice that.
Rachel!!!!, we did discuss that last night while you were here. So hopefully you opened it up a bit on the way home?
Even if you did have the roof up (Ha, bet you thought you got away with that?)

Another option, though not quite as good, is to keep it one gear lower than normal on your commute, so it's revving a bit more.........

But overall, unless colb can throw any light on the readings we got, then a regular thrash should hopefully clear it all out.

[Rachel!!!!]

Just to answer some of the questions asked it's a manual and it's used as my daily. I've never squirted water into the exhaust, I wash it with a hose not pressure washer and make sure it doesn't go up there.
I will take all the above advice and make sure it gets some longer runs, which it will anyway now lockdown travel restrictions have lifted and drive it like it's meant to be driven! and hope that helps.

Thanks again enough_zed for your help, it's been reassuring to know that someone with a bit of knowledge doesn't think it's anything too serious and yes I did give it a good drive both on the way to yours and the way home. I also took it the long route home from work today to avoid getting stuck in traffic lights at ongoing roadworks so will stick with that for a bit and hope it helps.

[colb]

In the absence of any fuel related codes it looks like the sensors are ok and you have no air leaks, The figures you posted look in range if they were not it would have set codes. Must admit I would chgeck out the actual performance of the exhaust sensors by viewing them in live data in a graph format using my engine check software. If the precat sensors are working correctly they will produce a ranging up and down voltage that displays as a nice uniform wave form in the graph, if they do that then they are ok. Post Cat sensors often look pretty static with minimum movement in the graph display, they would react if they detect rich or lean exhaust after its passed through the Cat. If they are duff then again I would expect a code to be set. In live data you can also view how much air is being passed through ther Maf, if it increases with throttle opening it at least shows its working, disconnecting its electrical connection mearly puts the car into default settings, if it runs better disconnected then that could be an indication that its duff. As you had no change when you disconnected I would assume yours is ok. I would tend to agree with what has been said earlier about short runs and low temp as probably being the main cause of sooty exhaust, a longer run and some spirited driving may well clear it out and improve things.
If there was something wrong I would expect the EML to come on after it tries to compensate for any misfueling issues casused by air leaks, just keep an eye out for the EML just in case.

[Smartbear]

A failing ccv system can cause sooty tailpipes as the engine is breathing in oily fumes, usually causes higher than normal oil consumption to go with it.
Rob

[Rachel!!!!]

A failing ccv system can cause sooty tailpipes as the engine is breathing in oily fumes, usually causes higher than normal oil consumption to go with it.
Rob

Definately not using oil, I had to top up with 1 litre in November and it's only 1 mark down from full on the digital dash display so barely used any.

Thanks for the advice colb, I will see how it goes with some longer, harder drives. I'm considering buying a code reader myself if need be.

[enuff_zed]

A failing ccv system can cause sooty tailpipes as the engine is breathing in oily fumes, usually causes higher than normal oil consumption to go with it.
Rob

Definately not using oil, I had to top up with 1 litre in November and it's only 1 mark down from full on the digital dash display so barely used any.

Thanks for the advice colb, I will see how it goes with some longer, harder drives. I'm considering buying a code reader myself if need be.

Sounds like it's ok then Rachel!!!!. Keep an eye on it just in case, but I think the better weather and opportunity to give it longer runs will be beneficial.
Regarding the code reader: whilst the one I have is pretty good and has a wide range of functions, it does not show the graphical live data as Colb described. Not sure if any do tbh?
I'm sure colb can advise but I suspect you'd need one of the fancier programmes on a laptop and matching input cables?

For now, the money may be better spent on a tank of fuel and a few decent runs.
Can always use mine for other stuff until you get your own.