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A new warning light Trifecta?

Discuss problems you have had or are having with your Z4
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Slickback
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A new warning light Trifecta?

Post by Slickback » Mon Dec 10, 2018 8:59 am

Hey everyone! First off, you guys have a great forum here. I lurked for several days before buying my e85 project and the wealth of info you guys have up here is amazing. Now down to the down and dirty... I recently purchased a 2003 z4 2.5 (auto with the sport shift mode, originally wanted a manual but the price on this car was a steal that I couldn't pass up). It's my first German car and of course she's gorgeous but has a handful of problems (just like every girl I've ever dated.. I must have a type). Anyway! Currently she's showing the "BRAKE" light, the tire pressure light, and the dsc/traction control light, all in yellow. About halfway home the check engine light came on as well. Using an AutoZone code reader revealed codes po171 and po174. Quick visual inspection made me realize that the lower air intake boot had been duct taped up by the previous owner, which seems the most likely culprit for those two codes. No worries there, new upper and lower boots only run $40 a piece on ebay. And it seems like a simple diy job. Anyone know if I'll need to get the code reset after replacing them or if the light will just go out on its own? Now what I'm really worried about is the trifecta that were all on before hand. These don't seem to effect driveability any (aside from having no traction control, and a very slight shudder in the steering wheel under light braking), but of course none of us want to stare at these ugly lights on our beautiful cars. Anyone know what could cause this combination of lights? I'm thinking a wheel speed sensor, steering angle sensor, or possibly the newer model falkner tires being a bit out of round (as this seemed to cause problems for another member of this forum).

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Sidewaze Samm
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A new warning light Trifecta?

Post by Sidewaze Samm » Mon Dec 10, 2018 11:39 am

I'm not techie enough to help, but to eliminate one possible cause for one of the lights have you checked tyre pressures and reset the TPMS -- sorry for being so obvious, but that's about my level of knowledge :oops: sadly, not everyone here is an expert.

Anyway, welcome - and don't forget a photo. I think that's obligatory for those across the pond.
2008 E85 3.0si
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ZHP, stubby, gloss black grilles, DLV box, gaptech, no CDV.

Slickback
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A new warning light Trifecta?

Post by Slickback » Mon Dec 10, 2018 12:36 pm

Sidewaze Samm wrote: Mon Dec 10, 2018 11:39 am I'm not techie enough to help, but to eliminate one possible cause for one of the lights have you checked tyre pressures and reset the TPMS -- sorry for being so obvious, but that's about my level of knowledge sadly, not everyone here is an expert.

Anyway, welcome - and don't forget a photo. I think that's obligatory for those across the pond.
Thanks Sam! I'll give that a shot after work today. Was going to try that yesterday, but figured I'd look into optimum tire pressure on my tires first (as they say 50psi is the max, which seems waaay high). I'll give you guys an update afterward! Also here's my obligatory picture :)
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KevinC
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A new warning light Trifecta?

Post by KevinC » Mon Dec 10, 2018 6:51 pm

How old is the battery? A failing battery can cause all kinds of havoc with the idiot lights.
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Slickback
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A new warning light Trifecta?

Post by Slickback » Tue Dec 11, 2018 3:37 am

KevinC wrote: Mon Dec 10, 2018 6:51 pm How old is the battery? A failing battery can cause all kinds of havoc with the idiot lights.
No way of knowing.. I believe a battery test and tire pressure check is in order. Well report the results as soon as I know something! (Tomorrow evening more than likely)

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BRC
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A new warning light Trifecta?

Post by BRC » Tue Dec 11, 2018 7:30 am

50 psi is definitely way too high! The more likely values will range between 32 to 36/38 psi depending on what tyres you put on and your preferences. Plus one on the battery condition which has often been the root of all evil when it comes to warning lights. Simple enough to check with a voltmeter and you should be seeing 12.6 volts if the battery is healthy. If not charge using the charge connections in the engine bay and not direct to the battery.
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