Door won't open from inside or out after fitting new Bowden cables

Steve Hignett · Post by **Steve Hignett** » Wed Oct 31, 2018 12:19 pm

Hi All,

Apologies for my first post being a plead for help, but I'm stumped..

Using search functions and posts from this forum I identified the commonly found problem with the exterior door handles becoming less effective.

So, watched a bit on door card removal and replaced both of them without too much trouble (I discovered to my dismay that on first fitting that the route the old cables took was too tight for the new [genuine BMW] cables and so had to do it again giving them a gentler route. This initially stopped the door from latching closed at all due to the tension), so after checking a bunch of times on both sides, I was satisfied that they both worked fine.
And it was a marked improvement.

However...
I went to take my son to school, jumped in the drivers side, but my son wasn't able to open passenger side.
I reached over and sure enough the interior handle didn't work either..

I did normal things like lock/unlock the car to no avail.
I can hear the lock releasing the door.

It's as if both pulls aren't connected.

Started searching the forum again and found this older post;
viewtopic.php?t=76531

So, this morning, I've managed to get the door card off and the exterior handle, but that's where I've come to a stop..

Can anyone help out with some advice, please?
(I've had to lend my daily car to my sister and so need the Z4 to be operating normally, in every way really...)

Thanks in advance,
Steve

Steve Hignett · Post by **Steve Hignett** » Wed Oct 31, 2018 12:28 pm

If I put pressure on the door from the outside pushing it closed and using hand and fingers operate the latch from inside the door, I can feel/hear/spidey-sense the latch and it seems to be catching something and moving past.

Obvsiously I'm hugely guessing at this point, but i think the latch is broken internally or missing it's corresponding lift point internally.

If the above is true, is it a replacement lock that's needed? And if that's true, how on earth do I take this lock out when out of the 3 mounting screws, one is on the inside and 2 are in the door shut?

Not feeling good about this repair...

Thanks again,
Steve

kis · Post by **kis** » Thu Nov 01, 2018 11:17 am

If you've removed the door card then can't you pull on the bowden cable (the cabling itself, not the door handle) to release the door? If it's locked then you'll just need to perform the action twice?

Steve Hignett · Post by **Steve Hignett** » Thu Nov 01, 2018 7:44 pm

No, that doesn't work, sorry.

Any other suggestions, please?

kis · Post by **kis** » Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:28 pm

Pull the power cable out, then back in with some WD? Then lock and unlock the car? The mechanism should work even if the cables don't?

parabolica · Post by **parabolica** » Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:52 pm

I fear your door latch has seized shut; mine did exactly the same a few weeks after I bought the car in May. My local indy had to drill out the lock and replace; it is not an easy procedure and requires persistence. I haven't been brave enough to take the door card back off to check the damage done, but the mechanic (a BMW specialist) said it was pretty brutal, but he fixed everything (new latch fitted) and it is hidden behind the door card and it works perfectly once more.

Beedub · Post by **Beedub** » Sun Nov 04, 2018 11:40 pm

parabolica wrote: ↑Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:52 pm I fear your door latch has seized shut; mine did exactly the same a few weeks after I bought the car in May. My local indy had to drill out the lock and replace; it is not an easy procedure and requires persistence. I haven't been brave enough to take the door card back off to check the damage done, but the mechanic (a BMW specialist) said it was pretty brutal, but he fixed everything (new latch fitted) and it is hidden behind the door card and it works perfectly once more.

this sounds horrific ...

kis · Post by **kis** » Mon Nov 05, 2018 10:13 am

a Z4 Halloween horror story come to lifeeee

Steve Hignett · Post by **Steve Hignett** » Mon Nov 05, 2018 10:53 am

Hi again,

As above, this seems horrific to me, but above that it seems unbelievably frustrating...

Due to a couple newer factors that I didn't list in my OP, I fear that I do have the same issue as you, Parabolic.

I'm sorry to be such a pain, but is there any way you would consider contacting the BMW specialist that worked on your car for you, as I have a couple questions that I can't answer.

1, how did he UN-latch the door latch / lock from the strike plate?
2, how did he undo (or sheer the heads) on the two door lock screws that are situated in the door shut?

Because even looking at the butchery I would have to perform on the doors inner skin (that would be hidden behind the door card), I don't see how the door will open without the two problems above being sorted too..

I only bought the car a few weeks ago, and it was meant to be a fun 2nd car, and due to situation I described in my OP about having to give my Passat to sister as she's had serious car issues, I'm left using the Z4 all the time and I've had nothing but problems with it... The seller seemed a genuine guy, but I don't believe he didn't know about all the things I've had to sort on it (and there's still stuff left!)

Once again, any help and advice would be gratefully received...
Thanks,
Steve.

parabolica wrote: ↑Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:52 pm I fear your door latch has seized shut; mine did exactly the same a few weeks after I bought the car in May. My local indy had to drill out the lock and replace; it is not an easy procedure and requires persistence. I haven't been brave enough to take the door card back off to check the damage done, but the mechanic (a BMW specialist) said it was pretty brutal, but he fixed everything (new latch fitted) and it is hidden behind the door card and it works perfectly once more.

kis · Post by **kis** » Mon Nov 05, 2018 10:58 am

Have you had a google/youtube of similar problems? Possibly a video that covers the processes? Don't limit yourself to a z4 just go "bmw door seized" or something? Steps to rectify should be similar. Best of luck

Steve Hignett · Post by **Steve Hignett** » Mon Nov 05, 2018 3:09 pm

I did that first, but admittedly, did what you said and was quite specific and therefore restrictive in my search results.

However, after realising you are right, I've been searching for the past hour or more and to no avail..

It seems that lots of people have extremely similar problems, but then the conversation gets dragged askew slightly, or the situation is left without solution.

You get people saying, it's the actuator. This is the greatest volume of results, then people saying, it's the latch. This doesn't fit with my symptoms though. And finally you get people saying things like, not sure about Z4 but if it was a Z3 it would be the boot loom etc etc

I did do one more check in the meantime after one search result, that wasn't effective, but did eliminate a possible cause and that was to check the central locking fuses, they are both fine, but it was good to check as I hadn't thought a fuse could have caused it.

The current situation is as follows;

The car won't unlock using the key fob button
The car won't unlock using the central console button
The drivers door DOES unlock using the key and opens with either handle
The roof won't lower from key fob or central console button
I've stripped the passenger door card, removed outer handle, removed inner and outer cables, removed door lock pin

When operating the inner and outer lever on the latch, they both move fine and even raise the white plastic lock slide, but they do not open the door.

Imho, the door is locked shut internal to the mechanism.

I've always had VAG cars, so I am not familiar with tinkering on BMW door locks or lock actuators, so have no clue as to how to proceed, or what is at fault

Thanks for suggestions so far...
Steve

kis · Post by **kis** » Mon Nov 05, 2018 4:35 pm

What about a vehicle locksmith? If someone can get it open then should be simple enough to get it out and replace with a new one? It's getting it open in the first place that's your issue

Have you seen this one? https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5- ... -pics.html

Steve Hignett · Post by **Steve Hignett** » Mon Nov 05, 2018 4:57 pm

I'm still reading at the moment, but yes I did take in that post. However, it seems to state that the door can be mechanically unlocked and I can't do that..
Currently, fingers are pointing equally to door lock actuators or (and/or) GM5 module.

I was given an OBD scanner with the car and I've found a fault that states;
185 Transport Mode Active
When looking at the GM portion (in German it's ZKE )

I will see if there's an auto locksmith local to me (Middlech, Cheshire) and give them a call...

Thanks,
Steve.

parabolica · Post by **parabolica** » Mon Nov 05, 2018 9:59 pm

Chap who fixed my door was Adrian at Gilberts for BMW in Gunnersbury, West London: https://www.gilbertsforbmws.co.uk/

He's a 1-man garage outfit and knows his BMWs inside out; if you give him a call I'm sure he'll answer your questions. He does respond to messages sent through his website but usually not until later on in the evening.

ETA I honestly have no idea how he got the latch drilled out, but he only had my car for 2 days and it was fixed without issue. He did say it was a bugger of a job and showed me what remained of the old latch; it was bone dry (should have been greased). I never thought to ask but I think the very hot weather over the summer was a root cause.

Grease those latches lads.

parabolica · Post by **parabolica** » Sun Nov 18, 2018 1:56 pm

Have you had any luck OP?

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