Roof motor now in the boot just a few questions

PDJ · Post by **PDJ** » Fri Jun 29, 2018 8:25 am

A few days ago I tried to close the roof manually but did not read the instruction book (how hard could it be) so I missed the turn 90 degree bit so failed to operate it manually it has worked fine for at least 10 open/closes since but today when I got to work the roof would not close
I have since read the instructions and closed it manually
Problem is when opening it just released the claw from the frame and then stops or from open it just starts to operate then stops the sequence starts with the windows doing the right things
Could it be the other end of the red pull cord not going back to the auto position and how hard is it to get at we have a horoscope at work to try and get a look in to where the motor is

Any other ideas thanks

markplant · Post by **markplant** » Fri Jun 29, 2018 8:33 am

Apparently it's quite common for the plunger that's operated by the red handled cable to seize up

PDJ · Post by **PDJ** » Fri Jun 29, 2018 11:04 pm

Apparently it's quite common for the plunger that's operated by the red handled cable to seize up

Is it possible to get to this to push it back in place without removing the roof?

markplant · Post by **markplant** » Sat Jun 30, 2018 5:55 am

You can get the roof motor moved into the boot without talking the roof off for around 80pound, then a bit more to get it fixed but once in a he boot all options become easier, several members around the country can do this , Durham, Warrington, Bristol and hook are the options from memory

PDJ · Post by **PDJ** » Sat Jun 30, 2018 7:24 pm

I have spent the day getting blasted by the sun (must not complain) and trying to fix the roof motor firstly from the boot then gave in and removed the hood.

All back together with the motor in the boot.

What is the best position for the motor/pump vertical 45 degrees or horizontal, what brackets have people made or used.

Also what is the fluid in the pump resivior and how much, it now has no sound deadening or water cover on it just the bear motor/pump and sounds like it is caveatting and sucking in air.

Thanks 10 hours working on it (other little things as well) so out for a drive after tea.

PDJ · Post by **PDJ** » Sat Jun 30, 2018 7:33 pm

The bits left over....

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wonkydonkey · Post by **wonkydonkey** » Sat Jun 30, 2018 11:00 pm

The motor needs to be as upright as possible (with the reservoir uppermost).

The hydraulic jack oil sold in Halfords is what you need. The system will bleed itself but you need to make sure the pump isn't drawing any air in from the reservoir. This is where the upright positioning comes in, as well as making sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir.

Surrey-Z4 · Post by **Surrey-Z4** » Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:30 pm

markplant wrote: ↑Sat Jun 30, 2018 5:55 am You can get the roof motor moved into the boot without talking the roof off for around 80pound, then a bit more to get it fixed but once in a he boot all options become easier, several members around the country can do this , Durham, Warrington, Bristol and hook are the options from memory

Hi Markplant - do you know who it is that does this in Hook as I’m considering getting this done and Hook’s not too far from me in Woking.

Thanks,

John.

Smartbear · Post by **Smartbear** » Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:57 pm

Surrey-Z4 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:30 pm
markplant wrote: ↑Sat Jun 30, 2018 5:55 am You can get the roof motor moved into the boot without talking the roof off for around 80pound, then a bit more to get it fixed but once in a he boot all options become easier, several members around the country can do this , Durham, Warrington, Bristol and hook are the options from memory
Hi Markplant - do you know who it is that does this in Hook as I’m considering getting this done and Hook’s not too far from me in Woking.

Thanks,

John.

Hi, look up Bowser134 i think he’s closest to you (but charges more than £80)
Rob

Surrey-Z4 · Post by **Surrey-Z4** » Mon Jul 02, 2018 6:41 pm

Smartbear wrote: ↑Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:57 pm
Surrey-Z4 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 01, 2018 11:30 pm
markplant wrote: ↑Sat Jun 30, 2018 5:55 am You can get the roof motor moved into the boot without talking the roof off for around 80pound, then a bit more to get it fixed but once in a he boot all options become easier, several members around the country can do this , Durham, Warrington, Bristol and hook are the options from memory
Hi Markplant - do you know who it is that does this in Hook as I’m considering getting this done and Hook’s not too far from me in Woking.

Thanks,

John.
Hi, look up Bowser134 i think he’s closest to you (but charges more than £80)
Rob

Perfect - thanks Rob.

PDJ · Post by **PDJ** » Wed Jul 04, 2018 9:22 pm

Well almost finished
I have drilled the bulk head and put 2 5mm rivets in and then 2 P clips and tywraped the motor to it with the help of 2 key rings I will get some much stronger tywraps the terminals are protected with the lid from the de ice tin just in case you was wondering why the random photo will make a foam cover and then trim it in carpet when time allows.

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Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Wed Jul 04, 2018 10:33 pm

The motor will fit perfectly into the recess on the left. It sits at a 35 degree angle from the factory and was designed to operate at that angle, not vertically.

Mike

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Wed Jul 04, 2018 10:39 pm

And if you leave the power cables under the securing ties, they WILL short out on the motor body, as the motor will twist from side to side and wear the insulation through.

Mike

Hagasan · Post by **Hagasan** » Wed Jul 04, 2018 10:53 pm

I put mine in the recess at an angle. I put it back in its plastic "cup" with dried out foam around it for sound absorption.

Joao_S · Post by **Joao_S** » Tue May 21, 2019 1:05 pm

I'm bringing this topic back from the death because I have few questions regarding the motor placing subject.

Hardest part is done. I managed to bring the roof motor to the boot and I would like to place it where people use to leave it (35' angle in the left side under the shelf flap) but I still have some questions regarding holding the motor in its new place:
- Where do you drill the holes to pass the tie wraps? Directly in the carpet? And do you pass the tie wraps on it? Is it strong to take the engines weight? (I don't want to hide the motor behind the carpet. Instead I'll do a cover, just like many did.)
- Electric lines: If the slots in the plastic didn't work, would like to make them come from the junction of the carpets near the rear (since the wires look kind of stretched from above and I want them slightly loose), is there any special way to route the wires from behind? Or just undo the carpet and everything will be visible?
- About the slots in the plastic for the hydraulic and electric lines: Where is the best place to do it? Towards the front (close to the carpet)? Do I need to take big chunk of plastic?

Thanks in advance for you help.

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