Hard braking - Keeping her straight

[PDJ]

http://www.brembo.com/en/company/news/f ... mbo-brakes

Link should have some picture of hot hot brake discs all be it proper race cars but helps show the potential heat transfer.

[PDJ]

If it is the pad rubbing on the back of the piston and pad carrier part of the calliper a small amount of high temp Molykote grease should reduce or remove the noise if it is pad to disc try a different pad compound.

[R60BBA]

I’ve noticed that the noise only occurs when the handbrake is up (when jumping on the door sill in a stationary position). If I jump on the sill with the handbrake down there is no noise...

[hopz121]

Did you change the handbrake shoes when fitting the new discs?

[R60BBA]

Did you change the handbrake shoes when fitting the new discs?

I didn’t personally do the job so I don’t know. But I didn’t supply this part to the garage who did the work either so I presume not.

Why do you ask?

[cj10jeeper]

Did you change the handbrake shoes when fitting the new discs?

I didn’t personally do the job so I don’t know. But I didn’t supply this part to the garage who did the work either so I presume not.

Why do you ask?

Regardless of if you fitted new shoes you need to do a bedding in process when new rear disks are fitted.
Drive gently and hold the handbrake on firmly to slow the car while still driving. Do this for about 100m then repeat.
It cleans the inside of the disks and reseats the shoes.

You should never need new shoes unless you are harsh in use of handbrake or a rare failure happens

[R60BBA]

Did you change the handbrake shoes when fitting the new discs?

I didn’t personally do the job so I don’t know. But I didn’t supply this part to the garage who did the work either so I presume not.

Why do you ask?

Regardless of if you fitted new shoes you need to do a bedding in process when new rear disks are fitted.
Drive gently and hold the handbrake on firmly to slow the car while still driving. Do this for about 100m then repeat.
It cleans the inside of the disks and reseats the shoes.

You should never need new shoes unless you are harsh in use of handbrake or a rare failure happens

Just to clarify, do you mean drive slowly with the handbrake up? (If so how far up)? And how many times of 100m?
Thanks

[cj10jeeper]

I thought it was clear aside the repeat that I'd do it 2 or 3 times. You are trying to work the brakes on the drum surface to heat them and bed in so you pull the handbrake hard enough to be dragging on the car, but keep the throttle pressed so it keep it driving.

[R60BBA]

I thought it was clear aside the repeat that I'd do it 2 or 3 times. You are trying to work the brakes on the drum surface to heat them and bed in so you pull the handbrake hard enough to be dragging on the car, but keep the throttle pressed so it keep it driving.

I’ve just tried it.

It’s sort of worked, the squeak happens a lot less but is still there.

When the handbrake was applied and I pushed at low speed, it felt as if the bite on the nearside was not as strong as the bite on the offside.

The nearside squeaks whilst driving, so perhaps the nearside rear handbrake needs to be adjusted?

[cj10jeeper]

Of course the handbrake needs adjusting. Done through a wheel stud hole, but easier to remove a wheel.
Once both are correct adjust the cable to get the wheels to bite at 3-5 clicks. Can’t recall exact number but around that.

[R60BBA]

Of course the handbrake needs adjusting. Done through a wheel stud hole, but easier to remove a wheel.
Once both are correct adjust the cable to get the wheels to bite at 3-5 clicks. Can’t recall exact number but around that.

How much on labour should I pay for this sort of job?

[cj10jeeper]

10 minutes per side, plus 10 to to adjust the cable. Add a bit for thinking and I’d say £30
In reality it should be part of fitting new disks