Suspension issue

[JamesZ4e85.]

Hi All

I'm having some problems with my BMW Z4 E85 3.0 2003 lowered on B12 Bilstein suspension.

I went to the tyre garage this morning as both my rear tyres are getting low on tred and my MOT is in a few weeks.

They changed the tyres but said the rear passenger side was wearing unevenly. They started a 4 wheel laser allignment but said the rear passenger wheel has a problem.

The wheel is angled in more in at the top than the bottom. He said it needs to be adjusted 9mm to be right but it can't be adjusted anymore. They said it could have hit a curb or been bumped and something's bent on the suspension.

I can't get into the BMW specialist by me until the end of next week.

Anyone know what could cause the wheel to be angled more into the car at the top compared to the bottom?

Thanks In advance.
James

[Scooba_Steve]

These 'professionals' couldn't?

I'm not even sure how it could be that far out but there are some much more knowledgeable guys on here than me.

[VRSteve]

Maybe you've bent a suspension arm???

[Scooba_Steve]

But at the top, inwards? I would have thought the upper arm was far too beefy.

[MACK]

But at the top, inwards? I would have thought the upper arm was far too beefy.

My understanding it's the lower arm (the one thats adjusted for camber) that's designed to be the weak point and bend to save more critical bits. But that wouldnt give you this, the opposite is what I would expect

[BMWZ4MC]

But at the top, inwards? I would have thought the upper arm was far too beefy.

My understanding it's the lower arm (the one thats adjusted for camber) that's designed to be the weak point and bend to save more critical bits. But that wouldnt give you this, the opposite is what I would expect

You’re correct Mack

[JamesZ4e85.]

I managed to get an appointment this morning into an independent BMW specialist. They lifted the car up and had a quick look.

They said they can't see what's bent / damaged. The only way to fix it is to start putting new parts on it.

I want to take it to another garage for a second opinion as that could cost thousands to sort the way they have suggested.

Can anyone recommend a decent BMW specialist in South Wales?

Cheers
James

[Umfaan]

Summerhayes Bmw indie in Abertillery ..speak to Greg 01495. 240967 .....you will be looked after ....and rates are decent .

[Scooba_Steve]

Sounds pretty gash to me, don't go there again. Though i suppose that is the dealer trained method, replace at customer expense until fixed. Though you could tell them to fix and each time a new part fails to cure it, get them to restore it...

Worst case you can always pick up a sub frame and axle set from a scrappy, e46 are the same.

[BMWZ4MC]

If the BMW indy couldn’t find a problem, is it possible the alignment mechanic simply didn’t know what he was doing and there is no fault to find?
Or did the indy agree that the alignment is way off and that he couldn’t see what was driving it?

[mjennings23]

I'd agree with the above, and get another place to check the alignment. Bear in mind the top of the wheel SHOULD be further in than the bottom, it's called negative camber and every road car has it to some extent. It's also quite extreme on the Z4 as road cars go, being nearly 3 degrees at factory.

Get it to a proper alignment place and let them check it out, anywhere decent will be able to get factory specifications and see if it's within range. Lot of places will check for free or a minimal fee these days.

[mjennings23]

To follow on the above, the top of the tyre should in fact be around 25mm further inboard than the bottom following factory spec.

Or perhaps they didn't realise the camber adjustment is done on the lower arm?

[eddiemunster]

Bear in mind the top of the wheel SHOULD be further in than the bottom, it's called negative camber and every road car has it to some extent.

I read through this post and couldn't believe that not one person that looked at it didn't just say "Negative camber". Even Kwikthief would have a manual to show what the wheel settings are, so for BMW/specialists not to know is unforgivable.

However, that does sound like quite a lot of negative camber on the back: front, I'd probably go a bit more to aid turn in, but for the rear (particularly with RWD) you'd normally run it completely perpendicular. I suspect it's BMW-spec though as my 330d had negative camber on the rear too, which I found odd until I confirmed it with BMW.

[mjennings23]

Bear in mind the top of the wheel SHOULD be further in than the bottom, it's called negative camber and every road car has it to some extent.

I read through this post and couldn't believe that not one person that looked at it didn't just say "Negative camber". Even Kwikthief would have a manual to show what the wheel settings are, so for BMW/specialists not to know is unforgivable.

However, that does sound like quite a lot of negative camber on the back: front, I'd probably go a bit more to aid turn in, but for the rear (particularly with RWD) you'd normally run it completely perpendicular. I suspect it's BMW-spec though as my 330d had negative camber on the rear too, which I found odd until I confirmed it with BMW.

While I'm sure the numbers are a bit out here, BMW spec is actually 2 degrees and 50 minutes negative camber on the rear wheels, which I agree is extreme on a road car but thems the factory specs!

I've personally changed mine to Z4M specs with a much more reasonable 1 degree 50 minute rear, but even that could be considered excessive by some.

[eddiemunster]

I've personally changed mine to Z4M specs with a much more reasonable 1 degree 50 minute rear, but even that could be considered excessive by some.

What are the front specs on the Z4M, I'd guess at probably 3-4, possibly a bit more?