E85/E86 Steering Problems (Solved)

SeanConnor · Post by **SeanConnor** » Wed Oct 04, 2017 1:16 pm

Excellent write up

Kamuela · Post by **Kamuela** » Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:20 am

Excellent diagnosis and writeup. I'm curious, did you by any chance measure the change in lash between all in and all out, or some surrogate for that value, like the slope of the adjustment slots as measured from the perimeter of the ring? I'm curious as to what magnitude of rotation results in what change in lash. My best guess is that it's relatively insensitive, fairly large rotations make really small changes in lash. Do you have any sense of that? From your photos it looks as though there's maybe 1--2 mm change in lash between all in and all out, judging from the apparent distance between the adjustment slot and the outer edge of the ring.

Joycey · Post by **Joycey** » Sat Jan 06, 2018 6:46 pm

Kamuela wrote: ↑Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:20 amExcellent diagnosis and writeup. I'm curious, did you by any chance measure the change in lash between all in and all out, or some surrogate for that value, like the slope of the adjustment slots as measured from the perimeter of the ring? I'm curious as to what magnitude of rotation results in what change in lash. My best guess is that it's relatively insensitive, fairly large rotations make really small changes in lash. Do you have any sense of that? From your photos it looks as though there's maybe 1--2 mm change in lash between all in and all out, judging from the apparent distance between the adjustment slot and the outer edge of the ring.

Because I made the adjustments with the column back in its very difficult to make any form of measurements, remember your laying on your back upside down in the footwell. I made an educated guess on the bench and fitted the column then went for a test drive. I found that slightly moving the ring by 1-2mm made huge difference in steering feel so only small gentle adjustments are needed.

Hope that helps.

ionofchios · Post by **ionofchios** » Sat Jan 06, 2018 7:32 pm

Good job! Have had twitchy steering issues with my new, old e86 at around 70 mph. New wishbones and bushes, and going from 19” to 17” wheels have improved it, but I can still feel it sometimes. Will be replacing front suspension soon, which I wanna do for other reasons, then will get alignment done. If it’s still present, I’m definitely trying this. Good post!

Or, actually, might just give this a go tomorrow. I’ve tried to check for play in track rods and rack, and can’t find any - any movement of the wheels is transferred directly to the column, which suggests the issue is either in the column or further up.

Btw, anyone know a good way to lock the steering wheel in place, so it’s easier to check if there is play in the system by manipulating the wheels?

Kamuela · Post by **Kamuela** » Sat Jan 06, 2018 8:18 pm

Excellent write up.

I did this about a year ago. For US market cars, you have to remove the knee airbag, which complicates it a bit, adds some time. Also, they're socket heads, not torx, in the US, so a longish 6 mm allen wrench is the thing to use. Figure on an hour, maybe less, allowing for plenty of time for the airbag capacitor to discharge. If you experiment like I did, you an always leave the airbag off and reset the light later. You guys in the UK have an easier time of this.
The German web site where this is explored in tedious detail seems to indicate that the adjustment is pretty tolerant, once you've gotten it out of a binding condition, which was my experience too. Some of those guys are a few years into this repair, without any recurring problems, so I'd say it's permanent.
I did try the drill-and-grease "fix" first. Waste of time. might have made it a tiny bit smoother, but if I had it to do all over, I wouldn't.

Joycey · Post by **Joycey** » Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:17 pm

Kamuela wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2018 8:18 pmExcellent write up.

I did this about a year ago. For US market cars, you have to remove the knee airbag, which complicates it a bit, adds some time. Also, they're socket heads, not torx, in the US, so a longish 6 mm allen wrench is the thing to use. Figure on an hour, maybe less, allowing for plenty of time for the airbag capacitor to discharge. If you experiment like I did, you an always leave the airbag off and reset the light later. You guys in the UK have an easier time of this.
The German web site where this is explored in tedious detail seems to indicate that the adjustment is pretty tolerant, once you've gotten it out of a binding condition, which was my experience too. Some of those guys are a few years into this repair, without any recurring problems, so I'd say it's permanent.
I did try the drill-and-grease "fix" first. Waste of time. might have made it a tiny bit smoother, but if I had it to do all over, I wouldn't.

Just for info: UK cars don't have knee airbags and they are fitted with Torx bolts, to avoid any confusion.

JimBob78 · Post by **JimBob78** » Sat Jan 13, 2018 3:38 pm

Just had a go at this but can't see how to get a ratchet and socket on the torx bolts, doesn't appear to be enough space, any tips?
Uk rhd car
Cheers

bladeowner · Post by **bladeowner** » Sat Jan 13, 2018 5:51 pm

JimBob78 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 13, 2018 3:38 pmJust had a go at this but can't see how to get a ratchet and socket on the torx bolts, doesn't appear to be enough space, any tips?
Uk rhd car
Cheers

After much trial and error I found a torx spanner had just enough movement to slacken and tighten. It would depend on the angle though I guess. DLV said a 8mm flex head ratchet spanner worked for him - https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... m#p1478381

JimBob78 · Post by **JimBob78** » Sat Jan 13, 2018 6:30 pm

Great thanks, I'll give that a go! Is it definitely an 11e size rather than 10e?
Thanks

bladeowner · Post by **bladeowner** » Sat Jan 13, 2018 7:19 pm

Sorry, I don't remember - I bought these : https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/4-PC-Professio ... 4097.l9055

JimBob78 · Post by **JimBob78** » Sun Jan 14, 2018 5:26 pm

I manged to get an 8mm spanner on the nuts and link a second spanner to the open end to get leverage to undo. My neighbor who is a mechanic thinks the worm gear adjusts steering lash which can increase over time as wear increases. I've tightened mine by 10mm. I was getting vaguesness at speed and a knocking sensation so will see if this improves any.

Thanks OP for finding the time to do the leg work, if it cures my issues, I'm going to name my first born after you!

Joycey · Post by **Joycey** » Sun Jan 14, 2018 9:01 pm

Another forum member popped in over the weekend and I did the same thing for him, he could instantly feel the difference just moving the car around the car park.

dunks · Post by **dunks** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:42 am

Hey guys, can anyone confirm what Torx socket is required? Is it E10 or E11?

Although it seems a few guys have had success with using an 8 mm spanner.

Would one of https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Combination- ... SKomLMBEWA these work?

Joycey · Post by **Joycey** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 6:00 pm

I'm pretty sure its an E11 dunks.

JimBob78 · Post by **JimBob78** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:18 pm

I think the spanner is easier, couldn't get a socket on the bolt head.

Happy to report this has fixed my steering twitchiness and the rattle sensation over rough patches, so much nicer to drive, completely planted and feels solid like a new car, well chuffed!

Z4-forum.com

Z4-forum.com