Black soot coming out of exhaust

colb · Post by **colb** » Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:13 am

As to Code Readers and Diagnostics a lot of people seem to be using Creator 310 code readers these days that do quite a few functions including airbag resets.
For more detailed diagnostics a Laptop based system is probably the way to go with all the software and emulators being available via ebay for little outlay. Its worth bearing in mind some of the software are very large files and can take up a lot of room on your laptop, often better to find an old working laptop and take that into use purley for diagnostics use.Anything from Windows XP up to Windows 10 will do for an operating system for the software to work via a USB port.
BMW INPA diagnostics available via ebay from BCCables is the supplier of software and emulator with cable. You may need a 16pin to 20pin cable changer if you want to plug into older models like Z3 who have diagnostic socket in the engine compartment. Z4 is ok via the 16pin OBD2 in the drivers footwell for connection.
I also use BMW Scanner 1.4 which is again obtained from ebay, this is so simple to use and includes some limited coding capabilities. Far more easier to use and understand than the INPA software.
I do like another system I have called Engine Check Pro which comes from a company called Gendan Automotive based in Swansea https://www.gendan.co.uk/
I do like the ability to view live data from sensors in graph form, makes it much easier than having to scan loads of numerical lists. Been using this for yearsw and once you have bought it you get lifetime support should you need to download it again, I have had a laptop die and it was simple to get the download again once they had checked the original purchase.
A really cheap way into Diagnostics is to get an ELM327 emulator either in WiFi or Blutooth from ebay then download an App called Torque on your phone, this will provide you with code reading and clearing except airbags will also display live data from sensors and you can build a custom dashboard to view whatever sensors readings you want. Drawback is screen size but quite a capable portable bit of kit to have.
Just starting out on diagnostics I would point you to the Creator 310 as a start, that should do what you want for modest outlay, going to save the price of the unit the first time you use it as opposed to lining a garages pocket just for code reading.

enuff_zed · Post by **enuff_zed** » Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:27 am

colb wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:13 am Just starting out on diagnostics I would point you to the Creator 310 as a start, that should do what you want for modest outlay, going to save the price of the unit the first time you use it as opposed to lining a garages pocket just for code reading.

A comprehensive read, thank you.
I have the Autophix 5900 which seems very capable as a code reader, plus battery reg, e-brake wind back for pad changes, some live data reading etc. It has certainly saved me a lot of time and expense by isolating exactly which component has the issue. Cannot comment on the Creator 310 but from reading on the forum it seems to be more or less the same in performance as the 5900?

Rachel!!!! · Post by **Rachel!!!!** » Fri Apr 23, 2021 11:58 am

Thanks for that. The laptop based diagnostics seems well out of my capabilities and price range when I won't use them to their full capacity but I'm keeping an eye on the price of the Autophix 5900 as it seemed very easy to use and I'll also have a look at the Creator 310.

Daz W · Post by **Daz W** » Sun Apr 25, 2021 12:54 am

My 2007 2.5si on 74K miles is the same if it's been idling. I have it on good authority (Mike at Zed Shed), that it's a result of shrinkage of the valve stem seals and they let a bit of oil through. Nothing to be overly concerned about, it will just use a bit of oil. It can be fixed as anything can but it's a big job as the head has to come off. I'm fairly confident it will not register as a fault.

Rachel!!!! · Post by **Rachel!!!!** » Wed May 05, 2021 3:31 pm

Daz W wrote: ↑Sun Apr 25, 2021 12:54 am My 2007 2.5si on 74K miles is the same if it's been idling. I have it on good authority (Mike at Zed Shed), that it's a result of shrinkage of the valve stem seals and they let a bit of oil through. Nothing to be overly concerned about, it will just use a bit of oil. It can be fixed as anything can but it's a big job as the head has to come off. I'm fairly confident it will not register as a fault.

I've only just seen your comment but thank you, I really appreciate your input. That's definately put my mind at rest.

enuff_zed · Post by **enuff_zed** » Wed May 05, 2021 3:52 pm

Rachel!!!! wrote: ↑Wed May 05, 2021 3:31 pm
Daz W wrote: ↑Sun Apr 25, 2021 12:54 am My 2007 2.5si on 74K miles is the same if it's been idling. I have it on good authority (Mike at Zed Shed), that it's a result of shrinkage of the valve stem seals and they let a bit of oil through. Nothing to be overly concerned about, it will just use a bit of oil. It can be fixed as anything can but it's a big job as the head has to come off. I'm fairly confident it will not register as a fault.
I've only just seen your comment but thank you, I really appreciate your input. That's definately put my mind at rest.

Have you managed to give it any longer runs to see if it clears up?

Rachel!!!! · Post by **Rachel!!!!** » Thu May 06, 2021 7:54 am

Yeah I've been driving it on longer runs but it hasn't made a difference. I think it does it more when I put my foot down as I've been cleaning it after each trip to try and work out when it's happening more.

enuff_zed · Post by **enuff_zed** » Thu May 06, 2021 8:30 am

Rachel!!!! wrote: ↑Thu May 06, 2021 7:54 am Yeah I've been driving it on longer runs but it hasn't made a difference. I think it does it more when I put my foot down as I've been cleaning it after each trip to try and work out when it's happening more.

Hmmm, that's interesting. almost as though higher revs are causing oil to be drawn in?
Definitely keep an eye on the oil level.
And the water level too, as for me it seemed very thin and grey for oil.

Not my strong point but I wonder if colb, or someone similar may be able to advise whether this could be due to a blocked Crank Case Ventilation (CCV) system?

colb · Post by **colb** » Thu May 06, 2021 9:27 am

Blocked or gummed up CCV system couldbe an issue, pull the hose off the cam cover and see what state the inside is in, any build up of black oily carbon will need cleaning out or hoses replaced, follow the hoses down the system and check out their internal states and clean or replace if full of deposits. Valve stem oil seals may well have gone hard and not preventing oil to be sucked into the engine where it gets burnt, could be a cause of the black soot in the exhaust. If you do suspect valve stem seals, there is an additive you can add to the engine oil that reconditions the rubber and makes them seal better, not used any myself but people do say it works, worth a try to see if it improves things for little money. https://www.forteuk.co.uk/product/seal-conditioner/

enuff_zed · Post by **enuff_zed** » Thu May 06, 2021 10:12 am

Rachel!!!!, I think colb has some sound advice there. He's not the first to mention valve stem seals either.
I think it should be easy for you to check the CCV hose, but happy to help if you're not too sure.

Regards the product he mentions, it isn't too expensive in the long run but if you want to go that route I've noticed that Ebay sellers offer discounts for buying more than one. Vall's car is over 100k and 18 years old, so I'd have a tube of it too, as a precautionary measure.

Rachel!!!! · Post by **Rachel!!!!** » Thu May 06, 2021 4:17 pm

Thank you colb I will check that on Saturday.

So if the pipes are clogged up, clean or replace and then get the oil additive?

Does anyone have a picture that can guide me in the right direction of what pipes I'm checking? If pointed in the right direction I should be fine to check it out.

Smartbear · Post by **Smartbear** » Thu May 06, 2021 10:32 pm

Rachel!!!! wrote: ↑Thu May 06, 2021 4:17 pm Thank you colb I will check that on Saturday.

So if the pipes are clogged up, clean or replace and then get the oil additive?

Does anyone have a picture that can guide me in the right direction of what pipes I'm checking? If pointed in the right direction I should be fine to check it out.

You can remove the disa & see if the intake manifold is coated in oil inside, a blocked ccv deposits oily fumes inside it where they’re burnt by the engine and appear as soot on the bumper.
Rob

zriha · Post by **zriha** » Fri May 07, 2021 9:14 am

colb wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 9:08 am Faulty Maf, not registering the correct amount of air passing into the throttle body, if its over reporting the ECU will see this as a lean mixture much the same as extra air from holes or splits as in No.1. You could try cleaning the Maf with specific Maf cleaner spray, don't use anything else and don't touch the sensor with your fingers.

I have the same problem Rachel!!!! , I started a thread here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=128931

And from my side, I am suspecting what colb said, faulty Maf reading, as this started when I changed the air filter from OEM to Pipercross that didn't fit right, well, I wasn't happy how it was inside the box in comparison with OEM air filter.

Yesterday I made the change. And yes, I am seeing some oil consumption, but I have 200.000 km and 2003. model, and I suspect I will need to do Vanos repair, well - this https://www.ebay.de/itm/Premium-Reparat ... 2663021249

The car, like yours, drives great, I drove 600 km without stopping in one direction with an average consumption of 7.6 liter / 100 km - 130-140 km/h and the car did it exceptionally.

Rachel!!!! · Post by **Rachel!!!!** » Sat May 08, 2021 5:09 pm

That's interesting to see you have the same issue. I've just read your thread.

I've attached a pic of my engine can anyone point me in the right direction of where the ccv hose is that I need to check?

Smartbear · Post by **Smartbear** » Sat May 08, 2021 9:30 pm

Rachel!!!! wrote: ↑Sat May 08, 2021 5:09 pm That's interesting to see you have the same issue. I've just read your thread.

I've attached a pic of my engine can anyone point me in the right direction of where the ccv hose is that I need to check?

It’s attached to the back of the head, by the bulkhead & leads to the ccv which pipes down to the inlet manifold & the sump.
Rob

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