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Rear bearings - failed at the start!
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- Member
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Rear bearings - failed at the start!
As you can see I’ve failed to change my rear bearings at the first hurdle! I cannot get this to budge! Any ideas? It’s currently soaking in penetrating fluid and the 30mm socket slips.
2005 e85 z4, 2.5
- maxman
- Senior Member
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- Location: Wrexham
Rear bearings - failed at the start!
Looking at that ,you will probably have to apply heat to loosen..
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- Member
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- Location: Near Carmarthen
Rear bearings - failed at the start!
I only have a diy plumbing torch. Will that be enough heat?
2005 e85 z4, 2.5
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- Senior Member
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- Location: Worsley Manchester
Rear bearings - failed at the start!
From my experience of having just done a full strip and re build of the rear sub frame and trailing arms including the wheel bearings.
This job is not for the faint hearted.
I gave up and got a garage to remove the drive shafts from the hubs and remove the bearings.
I rebuilt it all my self.
I made the job harder by removing the trailing arms from the car. Back to your situation you need to remove the nut, these are tightened to 200NM so not that tight but tight enough, my suggestion would be to try and clean the nut up a lot better than it is removing all the rust with a small wire brush in a drill then try and find a socket that fits try imperial and whitworth ones (showing my age) to get a good fit try and hammer it on tight if possible then also try and jam the breaker bar or impact gun in so it can not jump off (4” by 2” wood levered against a wall of something solid) you will probably get one go at it so set it up the best you can if that fails you can try to chisel the nut free you will get 2 goes at it. You will need a good steel chisel and at least a 4lb hammer and make sure the hub is supported in a solid manner so the energy goes into turning the nut not bouncing the hub around.
If that fails you are into die grinding the nut down to weaken it to either split it or turn it to get it off.
Back to when I did mine the nut was the easy bit they came off with an impact gun, the drive shafts where seized solid. That will be your next bit but if you get the nut off you can replace the nut and drive it for repair, once the hub is off you are committed to finishing the job.
This job is not for the faint hearted.
I gave up and got a garage to remove the drive shafts from the hubs and remove the bearings.
I rebuilt it all my self.
I made the job harder by removing the trailing arms from the car. Back to your situation you need to remove the nut, these are tightened to 200NM so not that tight but tight enough, my suggestion would be to try and clean the nut up a lot better than it is removing all the rust with a small wire brush in a drill then try and find a socket that fits try imperial and whitworth ones (showing my age) to get a good fit try and hammer it on tight if possible then also try and jam the breaker bar or impact gun in so it can not jump off (4” by 2” wood levered against a wall of something solid) you will probably get one go at it so set it up the best you can if that fails you can try to chisel the nut free you will get 2 goes at it. You will need a good steel chisel and at least a 4lb hammer and make sure the hub is supported in a solid manner so the energy goes into turning the nut not bouncing the hub around.
If that fails you are into die grinding the nut down to weaken it to either split it or turn it to get it off.
Back to when I did mine the nut was the easy bit they came off with an impact gun, the drive shafts where seized solid. That will be your next bit but if you get the nut off you can replace the nut and drive it for repair, once the hub is off you are committed to finishing the job.
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Rear bearings - failed at the start!
Photos may be of some help
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Rear bearings - failed at the start!
A plumbing torch will probably help but a mapp gas or acetylene torch would be best. Lots of heating and quenching with penetrating oil will give you the best chance of shifting that nut.
Are you hitting it with the correct 12 point socket? Unfortunately if it has slipped it might be game over and time to take it to someone who can weld a socket onto the knackered nut and pull it off with an impact wrench.
Best of luck, I know how frustrating these old stuck nuts can be
Are you hitting it with the correct 12 point socket? Unfortunately if it has slipped it might be game over and time to take it to someone who can weld a socket onto the knackered nut and pull it off with an impact wrench.
Best of luck, I know how frustrating these old stuck nuts can be
2006 Z4 2.0i Ruby Black
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Rear bearings - failed at the start!
Make sure you have a properly fitting socket. Many cheap sockets do not have the proper taper to completely fit the nut. Thus, they slip off or strip.
- Smartbear
- Lifer
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Rear bearings - failed at the start!
Make sure it’s not a l/h thread before you get serious with it
Rob
Rob
e89 Sdrive 20i, plenty of mumbo & good economy-the thinking bears z4
e89 Sdrive 30i, this ones busted, pass me another...
e85 3.0si sold
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- Location: Near Carmarthen
Rear bearings - failed at the start!
Quick update; opted to get my mechanic do it. Proper pain to do apparently!
2005 e85 z4, 2.5
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- Lifer
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Rear bearings - failed at the start!
That is one hell of a rusted nut.
BMW Z4 30i 2003 auto 107's Whippy Toledo Blue
Beige M sport seats, wood dash
Toyota MR2 NA 1995
Triumph GT6 1972 (project)
Land Rover Discovery 1994 TDI (Tow car)
Mini 1000 1981
Beige M sport seats, wood dash
Toyota MR2 NA 1995
Triumph GT6 1972 (project)
Land Rover Discovery 1994 TDI (Tow car)
Mini 1000 1981
- buzyg
- Legend
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- Location: Cornwall
Rear bearings - failed at the start!
A wise choice. Good the hear your making progress.
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Rear bearings - failed at the start!
My mechanic said every single inch was rusted. Nearly 3 weeks he had her (was sorting her between jobs), but only charged me 2hrs per side.
2005 e85 z4, 2.5