Fan, code 2EFE. Suspect fan is goosed

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:47 am

Just used Carly to check for faults, and found fan motor - 2EFE.

Now I assume this is the radiator fan.
What should I be testing to check that it works?
Can you use Carly to force it to run?

Is the fuse/relay in the engine bay?

I remember someone having an issue with the connector at the top of the radiator and needing re-crimping. Do I need to take the radiator cover off to get to this connector?

Luckily my drive to work is normally free flowing so no risk of overheating yet!

ph001 · Post by **ph001** » Tue Jun 19, 2018 11:21 am

Don't think Carly can run it but INPA definitely can as I've played around with that before in INPA. Defo check the small thin green wire that runs into the connector - it has a bad habit of corroding and turning to dust! See here... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=102083&p=1491546&hi ... n#p1491546

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Tue Jun 19, 2018 12:29 pm

ph001 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 19, 2018 11:21 am Don't think Carly can run it but INPA definitely can as I've played around with that before in INPA. Defo check the small thin green wire that runs into the connector - it has a bad habit of corroding and turning to dust! See here... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=102083&p=1491546&hi ... n#p1491546

Thanks, that's what I was after.
Strangely enough, my AC works, although I'll double check tonight.

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Wed Jun 20, 2018 7:05 am

A/C definitely works.
I checked the small green wire and although it's still attached it doesn't look that great.

How can I test the fan?
If I take it out and put 12V across the main pins, should that make it spin?

The green wire, is that just a sense to go back to the ECU?
Should it pulse when the fan goes on?

Lots of questions I know

ph001 · Post by **ph001** » Wed Jun 20, 2018 9:59 am

I think typically it's the copper conductor inside the wire that basically oxidises so even though it looks OK from the outside it's not really connected electrically.

In terms of the control, yes definitely a square wave pulse waveform on the green wire but I'm not sure if that is a control input from the DME (and the speed regulation is done on the fan itself) or if it an output from the fan back to the DME to report the fan speed. In fact it could be both if it's BSD (bit serial data). That being the case I'm not sure if just putting 12V straight on those two big power connections will spin the fan or not, but I'm fairly certain it won't do any damage if you try.

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:34 pm

Does anyone know if there is a repair kit for the radiator connector?
It might be worth replacing the crimp and a foot or so of the cable.

charlie8 · Post by **charlie8** » Fri Jun 22, 2018 1:11 pm

When you say the AC works, you mean the fan is on when AC is on ?

If so the connectors are fine

The green wire regulates the speed via PCM, so you have to have signal on that wire to make the fan spin and not something you can reproduce very easily, hence if it works at all, then I'd assume the wire is good. INPA was the only way I found to run tests on it and spin it up

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Sat Jun 23, 2018 9:12 pm

I've no idea if the radiator fan works at all. I can't hear it, not sure if I knew it was on.

As for the AC working, it cools the air down. Is it supposed to put the rad fan on at the same time?

charlie8 · Post by **charlie8** » Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:44 am

Yes - put the A/C on, and check the fan, it should come on when the compressor engages

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Sun Jun 24, 2018 2:11 pm

charlie8 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:44 am Yes - put the A/C on, and check the fan, it should come on when the compressor engages

Cheers. Will check today when I get home.

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Sun Jun 24, 2018 7:25 pm

Just checked and fan does not come on with the AC running.

I took the fan out which was very easy, and noticed at least three points on the windings where copper corrosion has taken place. At least one of the strands has broken.
Looks like a new fan now. Had a look on eBay and can't find an exact replacement, but prices are £300 plus!

Anyone know where you can get a pattern part for a reasonable price?

charlie8 · Post by **charlie8** » Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:02 pm

Fan will be fine I am sure. Green corrosion is fine as is even splitting the windings, there are many loops for a fail safe

Your issue will likely be green wire as alluded to before. Break open the connection blocks, connect +/-'s via croc ended wires between them. Then jump the green connector from fan to a clean bit of green wire ie scrape the insolution away a inch or so back to copper and connect croc to that. If that works then just cut wire and make extension, if not just wrap it again.

Checkout my thread. Cost me nothing in the end to fix.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=105320

However you really need the INPA to be sure as that allows you to send signals to the fan direct.

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:15 pm

ph001 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 9:59 am I think typically it's the copper conductor inside the wire that basically oxidises so even though it looks OK from the outside it's not really connected electrically.

In terms of the control, yes definitely a square wave pulse waveform on the green wire but I'm not sure if that is a control input from the DME (and the speed regulation is done on the fan itself) or if it an output from the fan back to the DME to report the fan speed. In fact it could be both if it's BSD (bit serial data). That being the case I'm not sure if just putting 12V straight on those two big power connections will spin the fan or not, but I'm fairly certain it won't do any damage if you try.

Yup, it's BSD.. Don't even ask me how I know that one....

Mike

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Mon Jun 25, 2018 7:03 am

Thanks Charlie8. At least my wallet can start relaxing.

I did pay Munich Legends to fix this, but I've got no faith in them anymore. They did remake the connection to the green wire but without another known working fan it may be hard to test this.

Do you know when the other end of the cable comes from?
If so I can do a continuity check.

Also, can you see the bsd signal on a DVM? I assume it's 5v peak. Getting hold of a scope may be tricky.
Thanks

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Mon Jun 25, 2018 7:52 pm

Car is in the garage having its service, plus new track rods and RTABs. So I've asked them to sort out the fan. They agree it's more likely the wiring.

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