108 refurb project - How i did it

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Rudd
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108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by Rudd » Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:10 pm

Ok guys so I finally braved the DIY 108 refurbishment. I had loads of help from people, especially CJ10Jeeper, so I thought the least I could do was a write up to say thanks and help other people.

STEP 1

The first step was to give the 108’s a good wash just to keep my workspace clean and so u could assess all of the damage.
I then used an 8mm 12 tooth spline and a ratchet to crack the bolts before using a drill to extract all of the bolts

NOTE: Count and store all of the bolts in a bag! There are 80 in total

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STEP 2

I pulled the wheels apart one by one and clearly marked them with 1-4 centre punches in a place that wouldn’t be seen once the wheels were complete.

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Step 3

Ok so now for the messy bit, getting the paint off. I used Nitro Mors paint stripper (2.5 litres) to do the job.

NOTE: Be safe, you don’t want this stuff splashing in your eyes or getting on your skin, use goggles and gloves to protect yourself and try to have running water close by in case you have an accident.

I followed the steps on the tin, hosing each major application off thoroughly and then repeating the process in order to get all of the paint and lacquer off.
Once I was satisfied with the results I washed the wheels with warm soapy water to get any excess paint stripper off.

NOTE: I left the centre spokes for the professionals so only stripped the outer rim.

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Step 4

Now to get the corrosion off, sanding with discs was my chosen method, plus I know a guy who works at a body shop and they were free.
I used a massive range, 240, 500, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit discs to do the job.
Where the rim wouldn’t be seen (the joining face) I used as low as 240 as the corrosion was quite thick, take your time and be careful, you don’t want a paper this course touching the outer edge of the rim as it will take forever to polish out.
I then used 500 to finish the joining faces and to grind off the corrosion from the rest of the inner rim (behind where the spokes would be).

To polish the inner part of the wheel I used 1000 and 1200 grit wet and dry to bring a slightly brighter finish.

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On the outer, most visible part of the rim I used 1000 to get the corrosion off before moving to 1200 and later 2000 wet and dry. This removed corrosion and polished out sanding marks.
At this point I was fairly happy with the results, a dull, almost machined finish to the outer rim and no corrosion left.

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Step 5

I set about polishing the outer edge of the rim and was very impressed with the results of polishing each rim for about 20 minutes.

I used a fairly hard polishing disc with pink compound first, then a soft finishing disc with blue compound to finish.

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Step 6:

At this point I had sent the spokes to the wheel specialists in Newcastle at a cost of £150 for any finish. I chose black chrome, the rims are powder coated black and then flashed with chrome effect paint before being covered with powder lacquer.
This took a day and I was amazed with the results!

I applied wax to the parts straight away (thick coats on the back, un-buffed for winter)

So on to putting the wheels back together. As I chose not to paint and lacquer the inner rim, leaving it as bare metal I needed a way to protect the alloy. I used wax oil (usually used as an under body sealant) between the two part of the wheel (where the bolt holes on the rim are).

I put one thin coat on and left to dry, then one slightly thicker coat and applied a little to the corresponding face of the spoked rim piece.

While these coats were still wet I put the rim together, wiped off any excess wax oil and tightened up the bolts using the ratchet.

NOTE: Be patient, you don’t want to ruin your rims by slipping with the tools at this point.

Once the tyres are fitted I will wax the wheels thoroughly, put the carbon centres in and fit to the car. (Pics will follow)

NOTE: During the winter I want to keep as much salt off the wheels as possible, every night I plan to swill the wheels with soapy water when I get home, hopefully to reduce the risk of the corrosion coming back.


I just want to say thanks to all the guys that I pestered for help and take the opportunity to say what a great forum this is!

HERE ARE THE RIMS (Pictures on the car to follow)


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Cheers guys :thumbsup:
Last edited by Rudd on Mon Dec 28, 2009 4:39 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Aliv6
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by Aliv6 » Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:18 pm

Good work!
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by PawnSacrifice » Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:24 pm

Rudd_2002, while I don't have 108s I appreciate the effort :thumbsup:
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by jamiez » Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:30 pm

Hardcore work there!
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Rudd
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by Rudd » Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:33 pm

worth it considering my total cost was about £180 excluding the wheels

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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by Wondermike » Tue Dec 22, 2009 2:03 pm

Wow really good write-up and result :thumbsup:

Just need some pics of them back on the car now :poke:

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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by srhutch » Tue Dec 22, 2009 2:06 pm

There was a product listed on Total BMW mag this month for protecting polished rims that havent been lacquered. I will dig it out tonight and post details, would save having to clean each night and it's meant to be very durable.

Edit.. Very good job by the way :thumbsup:
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sk93
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by sk93 » Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:30 pm

that's a really good effort!

It seems a lot of tedious work, but the results are worth it (both looks and £££ wise).
Nice :thumbsup:
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by gannet » Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:31 pm

They look great :D

Good effort :thumbsup:
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by Kryton » Thu Dec 24, 2009 8:47 pm

gannet wrote:They look great :D

Good effort :thumbsup:
+1

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pvr
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by pvr » Thu Dec 24, 2009 9:09 pm

Very nice looking, hopefully they will stay like this for a long time.
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by cj10jeeper » Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:30 pm

Deighted they turned out so well and above all else will be the pride of knowing you did it and they are 'your wheels'.When people ask where did they come from .....

If my input was of any help I'm delighted

Look forward to seeing them on the car which is the real shot we need.
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by pvr » Fri Dec 25, 2009 12:16 pm

Do the nuts have to be torqued in a specific sequence?
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by AlanJ » Sun Dec 27, 2009 2:31 pm

They look great. Remember when you wash the car to dry the inner rim at the base (inside the rim) as excess water will drain to this location. When the Zed is stationary it's this small water that can (and will....) start the corrosion process if you'r not careful. As I've mentioned in previous threads I have sealed the inner joint between the star spoke and main rim with a thin bead of silicone sealant to prevent water getting between the two parts.
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Re: 108 refurb project - How i did it

Post by srhutch » Sun Dec 27, 2009 3:20 pm

here's a link the the wheel protector product I mentioned above

http://spautopia.co.uk/wheelguard.aspx
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