How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Ducklakeview » Wed Jan 31, 2018 8:23 pm

Just had a PM asking me how to change the ATF, I know I did my own recently and posted a couple of pics, but after I'd typed all this out I thought others may find it useful, so here goes. No pics, but pretty self-explanatory.

Tools required;
6mm and (short) 8mm hex
Low range torque wrench
Buckets x 2
A BIG fluid syringe to fill the box
Diagnostic access to the gearbox ECU
Throughout the procedure, the car has to be kept level BTW, so this can't be done with the front on ramps.

I use fully synthetic from Euro, don't have the part No to hand though, I pay about £28 for 5L. I also change the sump gasket and filter at the same time (£20)

The trick is getting as much as poss of the old fluid out, as the torque converter holds about 4L on it's own and you can't drain it without removing it.

The way I do it, is to get it up to temp, and in the air. I then remove the drain on the sump 6mm hex, this will get you about 3L. Leave that to drain.

Then I remove both hoses from the transmission cooler at the bottom of the rad, and point them into a bucket. The trick with these, is to CAREFULLY press in the plastic retaining ring at the end, this then allows the hose to slide off. Then I start the engine and let it idle, whilst moving the selector through each position. This won't damage the box in any way, but it WILL get another 3L of old fluid out, and at the same time, more will come from the sump. This way, you will get 8-9L of old fluid out.

Put the hoses back on, and then I remove the sump and change the filter, being careful not to break the plastic tabs on the new one when refitting. Remove and clean the magnets on the sump and replace. New gasket on and refit - Torque wrench and even sequence is important, so as not to distort pan and cause a leak.

Remove the filling plug, this is an 8mm hex, but clearance is very tight, I have a 3/8" socket that I cut and ground so the actual hex is only 6mm long, this fits perfectly and allows it to be used with either a breaker bar or a torque wrench.

Then fill the box until fluid starts to dribble out of the filler, this is awkward as access is tight, but I use a BIG fluid syringe which does the job well.

Once it dribbles, screw the filler plug back in and nip up lightly. Start engine and run box through all positions before stopping and fill up some more until it dribbles. Replace plug.

Now is the crucial bit, the fluid level can only accurately be checked with the engine running, and the fluid at a temp of between 40 and 50 degrees C, as the fluid expands quite a bit.

So you have to connect the diagnostic and once 40 degrees is reached, put the selector into each position and back to park, and with the engine running, remove the filler plug. IF fluid dribbles out, the level is correct, if not, top it up until it dribbles, replace plug, run through selector positions and check again. BUT this has to be done before the temp reaches 50 degrees, otherwise the fluid expands, dribbles out and you end up with a low fluid level, which can cause slipping of the box.

Hope that makes sense!



Mike

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Anmarube » Wed Jan 31, 2018 10:01 pm

Done mine last month after noticing the coolant pipes to the gearbox were leaking.(Rad end)

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by srhutch » Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:08 pm

Before doing any of the above, check you can undo the filler plug first.
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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Ducklakeview » Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:11 pm

srhutch wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:08 pm
Before doing any of the above, check you can undo the filler plug first.
Good point, that's why a short 8mm hex is needed, 3/8" drive with a breaker bar. I can imagine it being a PITA if you try to use a "normal" allen key..

Mike

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by DaveZ4richardson » Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:18 pm

Ducklakeview wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 8:23 pm
Just had a PM asking me how to change the ATF, I know I did my own recently and posted a couple of pics, but after I'd typed all this out I thought others may find it useful, so here goes. No pics, but pretty self-explanatory.

Tools required;
6mm and (short) 8mm hex
Low range torque wrench
Buckets x 2
A BIG fluid syringe to fill the box
Diagnostic access to the gearbox ECU
Throughout the procedure, the car has to be kept level BTW, so this can't be done with the front on ramps.

I use fully synthetic from Euro, don't have the part No to hand though, I pay about £28 for 5L. I also change the sump gasket and filter at the same time (£20)

The trick is getting as much as poss of the old fluid out, as the torque converter holds about 4L on it's own and you can't drain it without removing it.

The way I do it, is to get it up to temp, and in the air. I then remove the drain on the sump 6mm hex, this will get you about 3L. Leave that to drain.

Then I remove both hoses from the transmission cooler at the bottom of the rad, and point them into a bucket. The trick with these, is to CAREFULLY press in the plastic retaining ring at the end, this then allows the hose to slide off. Then I start the engine and let it idle, whilst moving the selector through each position. This won't damage the box in any way, but it WILL get another 3L of old fluid out, and at the same time, more will come from the sump. This way, you will get 8-9L of old fluid out.

Put the hoses back on, and then I remove the sump and change the filter, being careful not to break the plastic tabs on the new one when refitting. Remove and clean the magnets on the sump and replace. New gasket on and refit - Torque wrench and even sequence is important, so as not to distort pan and cause a leak.

Remove the filling plug, this is an 8mm hex, but clearance is very tight, I have a 3/8" socket that I cut and ground so the actual hex is only 6mm long, this fits perfectly and allows it to be used with either a breaker bar or a torque wrench.

Then fill the box until fluid starts to dribble out of the filler, this is awkward as access is tight, but I use a BIG fluid syringe which does the job well.

Once it dribbles, screw the filler plug back in and nip up lightly. Start engine and run box through all positions before stopping and fill up some more until it dribbles. Replace plug.

Now is the crucial bit, the fluid level can only accurately be checked with the engine running, and the fluid at a temp of between 40 and 50 degrees C, as the fluid expands quite a bit.

So you have to connect the diagnostic and once 40 degrees is reached, put the selector into each position and back to park, and with the engine running, remove the filler plug. IF fluid dribbles out, the level is correct, if not, top it up until it dribbles, replace plug, run through selector positions and check again. BUT this has to be done before the temp reaches 50 degrees, otherwise the fluid expands, dribbles out and you end up with a low fluid level, which can cause slipping of the box.

Hope that makes sense!



Mike
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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3.0i 2003 E85 auto cruise control, smart top module.

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Phoenixboy » Thu Feb 01, 2018 10:32 am

Ducklakeview wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 8:23 pm
Just had a PM asking me how to change the ATF, I know I did my own recently and posted a couple of pics, but after I'd typed all this out I thought others may find it useful, so here goes. No pics, but pretty self-explanatory.

Tools required;
6mm and (short) 8mm hex
Low range torque wrench
Buckets x 2
A BIG fluid syringe to fill the box














Diagnostic access to the gearbox ECU
Throughout the procedure, the car has to be kept level BTW, so this can't be done with the front on ramps.

I use fully synthetic from Euro, don't have the part No to hand though, I pay about £28 for 5L. I also change the sump gasket and filter at the same time (£20)

The trick is getting as much as poss of the old fluid out, as the torque converter holds about 4L on it's own and you can't drain it without removing it.

The way I do it, is to get it up to temp, and in the air. I then remove the drain on the sump 6mm hex, this will get you about 3L. Leave that to drain.

Then I remove both hoses from the transmission cooler at the bottom of the rad, and point them into a bucket. The trick with these, is to CAREFULLY press in the plastic retaining ring at the end, this then allows the hose to slide off. Then I start the engine and let it idle, whilst moving the selector through each position. This won't damage the box in any way, but it WILL get another 3L of old fluid out, and at the same time, more will come from the sump. This way, you will get 8-9L of old fluid out.

Put the hoses back on, and then I remove the sump and change the filter, being careful not to break the plastic tabs on the new one when refitting. Remove and clean the magnets on the sump and replace. New gasket on and refit - Torque wrench and even sequence is important, so as not to distort pan and cause a leak.

Remove the filling plug, this is an 8mm hex, but clearance is very tight, I have a 3/8" socket that I cut and ground so the actual hex is only 6mm long, this fits perfectly and allows it to be used with either a breaker bar or a torque wrench.

Then fill the box until fluid starts to dribble out of the filler, this is awkward as access is tight, but I use a BIG fluid syringe which does the job well.

Once it dribbles, screw the filler plug back in and nip up lightly. Start engine and run box through all positions before stopping and fill up some more until it dribbles. Replace plug.

Now is the crucial bit, the fluid level can only accurately be checked with the engine running, and the fluid at a temp of between 40 and 50 degrees C, as the fluid expands quite a bit.

So you have to connect the diagnostic and once 40 degrees is reached, put the selector into each position and back to park, and with the engine






running, remove the filler plug. IF fluid dribbles out, the level is correct, if not, top it up until it dribbles, replace plug, run through selector positions and check again. BUT this has to be done before the temp reaches 50 degrees, otherwise the fluid expands, dribbles out and you end up with a low fluid level, which can cause slipping of the box.

Hope that makes sense!


Paid a lot more than that for my gearbox oil when mine was changed, or is that price per ltr?
Mike
E89 s line 30i manual
space grey
19" 296 wheels
cruise control
m sport seats
stubby

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Ducklakeview » Thu Feb 01, 2018 1:46 pm

Phoenixboy wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 10:32 am
Paid a lot more than that for my gearbox oil when mine was changed, or is that price per ltr?
That's for 5L.

Mike

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Phoenixboy » Thu Feb 01, 2018 1:55 pm

Mmmmhhh
You live and learn.
Was lead to believe bmw specified a particular oil for the auto box, and it was a lot more than that.
Believe it was something like 9ltrs needed.
Good job the dealer paid half towards it.
Had a leak, they changed a seal and replaced with new oil.
Thanks Mike
Not that it’ll need gearbox oil changing again in my ownership.
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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Phoenixboy » Thu Feb 01, 2018 1:58 pm

No wonder my auto box is so slick, it’s probably got liquid gold in it😅
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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Anmarube » Thu Feb 01, 2018 6:31 pm

I used Euro car parts for mine and got 10 litres and if i remember correctly used 7 litres..£56 and some pennies for the correct grade stuff.
Fluid that came out was horrible and black, Gearchange was fine or so I thought until I replaced, Now it is so much smoother and gearchanges are fantastic...Kickdown in Sport mode is much quicker also.

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by DaveZ4richardson » Thu Feb 01, 2018 9:30 pm

Screenshot_20180201-202619.png
Screenshot_20180201-202619.png (258.42 KiB) Viewed 2030 times
Is this any good?
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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Scott S » Sun Feb 25, 2018 1:55 pm

Hi all

I drive a auto 2003 3.0, I read somewhere (the web) that the auto box is maintenance free. As I can't see a dipstick for that any where.

DLV the procedure you explained above, how long does that take to do, also does it have to be done

Scott

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Ducklakeview » Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:39 pm

Scott S wrote:
Sun Feb 25, 2018 1:55 pm
Hi all

I drive a auto 2003 3.0, I read somewhere (the web) that the auto box is maintenance free. As I can't see a dipstick for that any where.

DLV the procedure you explained above, how long does that take to do, also does it have to be done

Scott

BMW say the box has lifetime fluid - However, other cars using the ZF5HP19 box DO have an oil change interval specified..

Personally, I'd not be happy with using the box say past 60k without changing the fluid. Yes, it doesn't have a dipstick so the topping up and level check procedure actually requires diagnostic equipment to read the gearbox oil temp, and there is a certain temperature window during which the level has to be checked.

Also, the car needs to be level when doing this, so you either need a pit, or a car lift.

It's about 90 mins to do the job properly, including changing the internal gearbox filter.

Bearing in mind just how complex these boxes are, and the number of rotating internal components and valves, I think it's a job well worth doing and certainly improved the performance and shift quality on mine..



Mike

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Anmarube » Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:55 pm

Hi Mike.

Getting no answer from you anywhere else. (PM/On thread) so thought I would try on this thread.
Any luck with a replacement Key yet ?

Cheers

Russell

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How to: Change Auto Transmission Fluid (E85 5 speed)

Post by Ducklakeview » Sun Feb 25, 2018 10:00 pm

Anmarube wrote:
Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:55 pm
Hi Mike.

Getting no answer from you anywhere else. (PM/On thread) so thought I would try on this thread.
Any luck with a replacement Key yet ?

Cheers

Russell
Sorry, not been on here last few days really, had some really bad news about one of my Daughters. Will check PM's now.

Mike

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