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Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 7:03 pm
by Bing
Matthewrhodes wrote:Afternoon Chaps,

Do I need new rubber seats?

Also is it okay to do just one? as a stealer advised both!

If so why do they advise both if only one is broke, is it for balance issues or some other reason?

A quick reply would be appreciated as I need to get the parts ordered ASAP.

Thanks in advance,

Matt

Ps Adey any chance of checking the photo links as I'm getting photo bucket "image moved or deleted" icon.
Matt - what model is your Z, and how fast do you need the springs ? I have a set of rears that are not OEM but were on Nosa's 2.5 for only 1,500 miles and were totally fine. Much better quality than OEM too. They don't fit mine as I have an Si :oops: Can let you have them for what I paid (£25) plus postage but I won't be able to get them packed and to a post office till Wednesday... PM me if you are interested :thumbsup:

(got some fronts for the same price if you are interested :wink: )

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 3:10 pm
by ultra713
well kinda, thats only for the spring im having problems getting to the shock/strut (idk the proper name) i checked on websites and all they say is i need to take off three bolts inside the trunk. but i cant figure it out

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 6:28 pm
by Matthewrhodes
Cheers for the offer pal, unfortunately I'd already bought the replacements :( .

Nice easy job takes 30min per wheel well worth having a second person to stand on the hub .

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 8:59 pm
by TH3R4POR
Changed my rears today, took no time at all.

I found it easier to use a scissor jack to force the arm down rather than a bar, as I was on my own I couldn't get adequate movement on the bar and get my hand into the spring at the same time.

I was going to do the fronts as well but unfortunately I needed a spring compression rig, which I don't have :(

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 2:49 am
by oliverz
Fortunately, changing the rear springs on a Z4 is easier than an oil change; fewer tools and steps to do

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:46 pm
by Coyote
TH3R4POR wrote:Changed my rears today, took no time at all.

I found it easier to use a scissor jack to force the arm down rather than a bar, as I was on my own I couldn't get adequate movement on the bar and get my hand into the spring at the same time.

My technique today for pushing the arm down.
My weight kneeling on was not enough so added a bit more to the plank :D

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adey wrote:hi i got them from main dealer seems about the only place unless you want to lower the car then most go the eibach route, press the dealer for a 10% discount i got mine for £152 good luck
They cost me £198 today :cry: Is that 3 years of inflation?

And 18mm, where on earth did that size come from? lucky I had an oldone kicking around.

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 8:57 pm
by ESP
I have just changed both my rear springs on my 2007 2.0i (With M-tech suspension) as the OSR spring was broken.
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Originally i contacted SUPLEX UK on forum member 'Lillywhite' advice and to be fair they where very helpful and quoted me £125 for a pair of (Part no. 06229),
but after a last min search on ebay i found this seller selling Surplex spings for a 2.0lt, but the part number was not the same as SUPLEX gave me, so i asked if they had any with the part number 06229, and BINGO!:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Z4-ROADST ... 5695500%26
£65.31 the pair bargin!!
The are advertised as for a 2.2lt but i too the gamble as the part number matched that which 'Lillywhite' & Surplex had told me.
Image

I have seen people on here fit the wrong springs on Z4's with M-tech suspension and there factory lowered cars end up 3" taller than normal at the back, but luckily these are the right ones :thumbsup:
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Its Not impossible to fit them on your own and its not a hard job, but it would have been alot quicker and easier if i had someone with me to push down the suspension arm. I used 2 iron bars and swore a lot but got the job done.
Just to note, when you jack the car up at the back for any reason, once its then back on the ground itll sit a inch or so up, even if u sit in the boot? I dont know why this is but i noticed it when i changed my alloys last year so half expected it (altho at first i was a little worried id had actually got the wrong sized springs "Phew!!"
:driving:

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 9:11 pm
by Lillywhite
Good spot, ESP. I can confirm, that according to Suplex's catalogue, spring ref 06229 fits both the 2.0i and 2.2i models with M sport suspension. :wink:

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:02 pm
by jampudding
TH3R4POR wrote:Changed my rears today, took no time at all.

I found it easier to use a scissor jack to force the arm down rather than a bar
Can you describe where you put the scissor jack or is it just obvious? - I think I prefer this method to the bar method.

Does any body know if the Suplex part no. 06229 fits a 3.0l car? I don't want to go any lower and I would prefer to avoid BMW.

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 6:58 pm
by pauld2012
I just tried this but I cud not get the shock nut to turn its rusted tight I used wd40 and a 18mm socket set and it would not move it is turned anit clockwise like a normal thread ?

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 7:04 pm
by stlymch
pauld2012 wrote:I just tried this but I cud not get the shock nut to turn its rusted tight I used wd40 and a 18mm socket set and it would not move it is turned anit clockwise like a normal thread ?
Easiest thing to do with stuck nuts like this is to pop round to your local tyre shop and ask them to gun it loose and nip it up. That way it will be easier for you to get the nut off. I used to do that before I got my electric hammer drill, most useful tool ever!

Re: replacing rear springs

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 7:20 pm
by pauld2012
stlymch wrote:
pauld2012 wrote:I just tried this but I cud not get the shock nut to turn its rusted tight I used wd40 and a 18mm socket set and it would not move it is turned anit clockwise like a normal thread ?
Easiest thing to do with stuck nuts like this is to pop round to your local tyre shop and ask them to gun it loose and nip it up. That way it will be easier for you to get the nut off. I used to do that before I got my electric hammer drill, most useful tool ever!
ok thanks