MMI installation - question for the master

[Roddy]

Wow, genius feature!

Say that when you are planning to punch someone's lights out

[Yoghurt]

Hello Dave

Could you tell me if it’s worth updating the firmware /amd or software on my Carsara unit which I think came with the original ‘ware please? If so, do you know where the download files are please ?
Many thanks Yoghurt

[AnubisZed]

Hello Dave

Could you tell me if it’s worth updating the firmware /amd or software on my Carsara unit which I think came with the original ‘ware please? If so, do you know where the download files are please ?
Many thanks Yoghurt

Yes it's always best to get the updates as it'll give you things like connection improvements etc.
I contacted my supplier directly through Aliexpress and they supplied the latest update. Go into the box settings page and find the software info page, bring it up on the screen to show which versions you currently have, take a photo and include this with your message so they know what you currently have installed. If there is an update available then they'll give you the link and instructions on how to install it.

[Yoghurt]

Thanks Dave, will do.

I do find the connection sometimes fails when you return to the car so any upgrade to improve it would help.

[Braveatom]

I've managed to install the MMI box using Daves guide (thank you!) and looking to get the best sound quality.

I have the early model E89 (07/2009)) with MULF, not the Combox (I think), and the mid level speaker package (9 speaker, 676)

I do have Bluetooth + USB+AUX in the arm rest - and the MMI box is connected to the AUX.

1) - I'm wondering if adding a combox would improve the audio? Its not bad, would like to get the best out of it (I noticed the radio on the iDrive sounds better)

2) - Has anyone used a cable like this, to make the USB in the arm rest useful and actually charge the phone? (I'd just use new cable with the existing socket) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000188569177.html - I'm guessing Carplay would now be wired too, which can't hurt.

3) - How can I figure out the firmware of the MMI, so I can get the latest version - After a couple of hours the box freezes. I see there are versions A+B, 1+2 variants of the box. I bought the Andream model from ewaying, but not getting a reply from them - https://www.ewaying.com/products/bmw-ca ... 5983113281

4) is there any wayy for the front PDC to automatically kick in, like the reverse one does?

Apologies if this isnt the best place to ask, I don't want to derail the thread, it just seemed fitting - I can start a new thread if needed.

[AnubisZed]

I'll try to answer from what I've learnt over the last year playing with this set up.

1) No, adding the combox will not improve sound. AUX is not the best in the world, but, alas, you are stuck with it.
2) Not sure where you would be thinking of plugging that usb into, but your current USB is already powered from the moment you unlock the car upto about 15 minutes after you lock it again.
3) MMI firmware can be found in the firmware settings page. Once in CarPlay or Android Auto flick to the apps page on the screen and choose the BMW or CAR option, this will take you into the settings menu, scroll down to where it mentions the firmware. Take a photo of this info and send it to your supplier.
4) In short, no. Just press the button.

Hope that helps.

[Silverstar]

I've managed to install the MMI box using Daves guide (thank you!) and looking to get the best sound quality.

I have the early model E89 (07/2009)) with MULF, not the Combox (I think), and the mid level speaker package (9 speaker, 676)

I do have Bluetooth + USB+AUX in the arm rest - and the MMI box is connected to the AUX.

1) - I'm wondering if adding a combox would improve the audio? Its not bad, would like to get the best out of it (I noticed the radio on the iDrive sounds better)

2) - Has anyone used a cable like this, to make the USB in the arm rest useful and actually charge the phone? (I'd just use new cable with the existing socket) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000188569177.html - I'm guessing Carplay would now be wired too, which can't hurt.

3) - How can I figure out the firmware of the MMI, so I can get the latest version - After a couple of hours the box freezes. I see there are versions A+B, 1+2 variants of the box. I bought the Andream model from ewaying, but not getting a reply from them - https://www.ewaying.com/products/bmw-ca ... 5983113281

4) is there any wayy for the front PDC to automatically kick in, like the reverse one does?

Apologies if this isnt the best place to ask, I don't want to derail the thread, it just seemed fitting - I can start a new thread if needed.

Regarding point 4, as AnusbisZed has pointed out you can't make it kick in automatically but if the front sensors are active (say after reversing a bit and then going forwards) you just have to press the audio source change button on the steering wheel and it will take into the native iDrive screen and the parking pictogram screen will be already visible.

Incidentally mine is also connected via the AUX port (I believe they all are) but I am getting better audio quality from the MMI box then from the native radio in iDrive.

[AnubisZed]

....
Incidentally mine is also connected via the AUX port (I believe they all are) but I am getting better audio quality from the MMI box then from the native radio in iDrive.

Just a point to clarify here, although I use the AUX for mine I wasn't saying that it's not good audio as I don't see a great deal of problem with it (especially doing 70mph down the motorway with the roof down!!). Under the right conditions you can easily hear the difference between the different audio inputs, but while driving you really can't tell that much (unless you have evolved to a point where you can block out all other incoming sounds and choose what your ear picks up!! Congratulations if you can/have )

Now under certain circumstances there was an option from the factory that didn't have either Bluetooth or USB, so in this condition that meant there wasn't the MULF or Combox fitted, subsequently the AUX wires went directly to the rear of the headunit (like the base model non-iDrive headunits). So if this was the case then you wouldn't have to run the AUX lead to the armrest at all as it can be picked up via the 40 pin quadlock connector instead.
** This audio signal is always present on the quadlock connector anyway but the iDrive headunits, that have Bluetooth etc, are set to pick up the incoming signal via the optical MOST cable and not the direct input. This can be coded on any unit BUT you would then loose all Bluetooth, USB and armrest inputs completely as it would no longer look for the MOST signal.

Hope that helps

[Braveatom]

Thanks @AnubisZed and @Silverstar. To address the points -

- The cable I mentioned was to plug into the MMI USB socket, and then attach to the back of the existing AUX socket in the arm rest. In my car the built in USB's don't seem to be powerful enough to charge the phone (iPhone XS), only drain slower - I have to use a lighter adapter to actually charge, its a bit clumsy. The MMI USB does charge though, so if I can make it seem built in, its a nice little upgrade.

- I've previously asked the vendor (Ewaying.com) for firmware updates, but got a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" response - which is kinda true. Recently Apple Maps has been freezing after a couple of hours, and I'm not getting a response from the vendor. Ive seen the firmware available on another forum for various models so figured I'd skip Ewaying, but don't want to brick the box with the wrong firmware version. Saying that, its an easy fix, restart the box - but the last time it happened I was completely lost in a train of traffic, in a part of London I don't know and it added to the annoyance!

- I was just trying to get the best sound with what I have - it does indeed sound good, but didn't know if that was getting the best out of the gear. I'm no audiophile but was rather happy to get a car with the 9 speaker set up, and just want to get the best out of it - seems like thats probably the case. It also sounds like I need to play with the EQ a bit more

TBH I'm mostly happy with the sound, I bounce between different music styles / qualities of sources, and talk radio, and getting a balance can be a bit tricky. I thought it was all OK until I accidentally put-on the iDrive radio and it sounded better - very circumstantial though. And yeah, once speed / roof down comes into it, all bets are off!

** This audio signal is always present on the quadlock connector anyway but the iDrive headunits, that have Bluetooth etc, are set to pick up the incoming signal via the optical MOST cable and not the direct input. This can be coded on any unit BUT you would then loose all Bluetooth, USB and armrest inputs completely as it would no longer look for the MOST signal.

Interesting, I may look into this, if only to write it off as an option. I've dived into the murky world of headphones before, and the general consensus is wired audio is better than bluetooth. So subjective, but if it a simple case of coding / testing / removing to check if its an improvement in the car, why not...

Thanks for the help!

[Silverstar]

....
Incidentally mine is also connected via the AUX port (I believe they all are) but I am getting better audio quality from the MMI box then from the native radio in iDrive.

Just a point to clarify here, although I use the AUX for mine I wasn't saying that it's not good audio as I don't see a great deal of problem with it (especially doing 70mph down the motorway with the roof down!!). Under the right conditions you can easily hear the difference between the different audio inputs, but while driving you really can't tell that much (unless you have evolved to a point where you can block out all other incoming sounds and choose what your ear picks up!! Congratulations if you can/have )

Now under certain circumstances there was an option from the factory that didn't have either Bluetooth or USB, so in this condition that meant there wasn't the MULF or Combox fitted, subsequently the AUX wires went directly to the rear of the headunit (like the base model non-iDrive headunits). So if this was the case then you wouldn't have to run the AUX lead to the armrest at all as it can be picked up via the 40 pin quadlock connector instead.
** This audio signal is always present on the quadlock connector anyway but the iDrive headunits, that have Bluetooth etc, are set to pick up the incoming signal via the optical MOST cable and not the direct input. This can be coded on any unit BUT you would then loose all Bluetooth, USB and armrest inputs completely as it would no longer look for the MOST signal.

Hope that helps

In my case I do have bluetooth and I needed to connect the MMi box to the AUX port to get sound. I tried without the AUX connection but there was no sound.

[AnubisZed]

In my case I do have bluetooth and I needed to connect the MMi box to the AUX port to get sound. I tried without the AUX connection but there was no sound.

And that's the normal way it should be as the majority of the iDrive do have Bluetooth so will have the MOST optical. There are very few that won't have it so not many will be configured to have it directly to the quadlock

[AnubisZed]

A little update concerning the new style MMI boxes that are now being supplied.
I'm told that amongst the new way to connect it that they don't come with the adaptor loom to tap into your existing microphone. So I've put my thinking cap on and come up with this (** please note I do need to actually test this to make sure 100% that it will actually work but I'm very confident!)

So you need to buy one of these 3 pol Y looms from eBay...

rrrrrrr.jpg (316.89 KiB) Viewed 1024 times

Now you need the male and one of the female plugs to connect with your existing microphone plug.
You then have an option as to what to do with the other end...
1) You can cut off the black plug on the loom...

etyreytryy-2.jpg (148.46 KiB) Viewed 1024 times

and then buy one of these 3pol plugs (with new crimps)...

kkkkkkk.jpg (19.9 KiB) Viewed 1024 times

and attach it so it just plugs into the new Y loom. Yellow wire to pin 1 and black wire to pin 2. Pin 3 is not used.

Or

2) Cut a length of the supplied microphone wire (with the black plug attached)...

etyreytryy-3.jpg (149.06 KiB) Viewed 1024 times

cut off one of the female plugs on the new Y loom...

rrrrrrr-1.jpg (316.53 KiB) Viewed 1024 times

and then solder the white wire to the wire from pin 1 of the Y loom (Yellow in these photos but colours may vary depending on supplier) and the braid to the wire from pin 2 (again colours may change but green with yellow stripe here). Don't forget to heatshrink your soldering.
Pin 3 wire is not used in this instance.

So you should now have an adaptor loom for your existing microphone. In some options there can be two microphones, I chose the left one as this is the one that goes to the Combox or MULF and is used for Bluetooth calls etc.

I'm going to make one of these up with the bits and pieces I have laying around and test it on my (older) MMI box I have installed using method 2 above, that way I can use the black plug that fits the supplied microphone (with the older boxes you had two choices!).
I'll report back just as soon as I can.

[AnubisZed]

UPDATE**
OK so I've made up a test microphone piggy-back loom and it works as expected

I decided to use the microphone plug and length of cable with a spare Y cable I already had, made it up, plugged it in and spoke to Siri with no problem.

As you can see here the colours of my Y loom are different to those photos above, and I'd previousley already chopped one of the female plugs and some wire off for something else so only had a short piece to work with from the other end where it joins with the male plug and wires from the other female.

20210918_175746.jpg (143.8 KiB) Viewed 999 times

In this instance the red wire from pin3 is not used so the cut end has just been taped up

20210918_175752.jpg (143.66 KiB) Viewed 999 times

As you can see from this close up, one of the wires is just a shield braid and this goes to pin2 and the other (red here) goes to pin1

20210918_175818.jpg (95.14 KiB) Viewed 999 times

This was soldered together and heatshrunk

20210918_175911.jpg (187.49 KiB) Viewed 999 times

And then I gave it a coat of fibre tape to make it a bit more OE

20210918_180219.jpg (210.56 KiB) Viewed 999 times

Doing it this way you do destroy the microphone that came with the MMI box but you then gain in that you are using the OE microphone so it all looks factory and neat.

Hope that helps

[Roddy]

Not sure if this has been mentioned
I decided to update my MMI, as usual the vendor provides no information and I rely on another BMW forum for news
Then when I contact the vendor, they will supply my needs....

Anyhoo, Andream box, just installed CHL_V1.6.5. Reasonably uneventful except a brief red screen which is always scary.... then I noticed this:

IMG_20220112_101611.jpg (73.84 KiB) Viewed 728 times

Youtube on the radio? Nah...... So I clicked it. Sure enough, it is the tube of you.
You can see there "Wifi Initializing". It initially searched for wifi and showed a list, my house and the neighbours. Obviously they will be useless when driving, so I assume it will use the phone, if it's wifi then a tethered connection, or it means BT which is already connected.

I don't really need Youtube, and don't want to risk bricking this unit, so I'll just leave it and check out what else maybe new.
One thing, the Exit icon has disappeared which isn't necessary anyway

IMG_20220112_101920.jpg (87.17 KiB) Viewed 728 times

[AnubisZed]

Roddy,
I've checked with my supplier and there is no update for my box so I don't have this option.


EDIT** The rest of this post has been removed as it didn't work