Splicing Wires

[LordLolzeye]

Hello,

I've just retrofitted sport heated seats with bolsters, my question is the following. I've had before heated standard seats so, instead of trying to draw power all the way from the JBE I decided to splice the power wire from the heating system (0.75mm wire - has a 20A resistance) and connect it to the bolsters power wire (0.5mm wire - should have a 10A resistance) - is this dangerous in any way (I figured that it might blow the fuse if I use the heated seats and the bolsters at the same time, but if this happens, should I upgrade it to a 30A resistance)?

Thanks in advance

[clarker63]

I'm assuming you didn't have bolsters before and I think if I recall when I did it you can just join them off the main power line at the connector under the seat.. I shared the wiring diagram in my retrofitting post I think.. I'll see if I can find it. It should show if it has a separate fuse ( but I doubt it).

[clarker63]

Cant find it but if you're worried go for a 30a. I cant remember what fuse I ended up with and Andy argyle has sold my old one!

[BadgerDog]

Hello,

I've just retrofitted sport heated seats with bolsters, my question is the following. I've had before heated standard seats so, instead of trying to draw power all the way from the JBE I decided to splice the power wire from the heating system (0.75mm wire - has a 20A resistance) and connect it to the bolsters power wire (0.5mm wire - should have a 10A resistance) - is this dangerous in any way (I figured that it might blow the fuse if I use the heated seats and the bolsters at the same time, but if this happens, should I upgrade it to a 30A resistance)?

Thanks in advance

Just a minor heads up, its not a 20A resistance. Amperage is a measurement of current. I'm guessing you mean 20A capacity (either based on fuse, or what the guage wire is rated for). No big deal as your point gets across, just thought you might like to know.

[LordLolzeye]

Thanks guys,

Yes, I meant capacity, not resistance. My main concern was about the wire being to thin and possibly melt / catching on fire when the heated seats are on.

[clarker63]

Thanks guys,

Yes, I meant capacity, not resistance. My main concern was about the wire being to thin and possibly melt / catching on fire when the heated seats are on.

I think you'll be fine.... if you have too much current the fuse will go (assuming you have "stock wires").

[BadgerDog]

Thanks guys,

Yes, I meant capacity, not resistance. My main concern was about the wire being to thin and possibly melt / catching on fire when the heated seats are on.

Gotcha. And yeah, the system SHOULD always be set up so the fuse goes first. I assume stock is. Cheers.

[LordLolzeye]

Thanks guys,

Yes, I meant capacity, not resistance. My main concern was about the wire being to thin and possibly melt / catching on fire when the heated seats are on.

Gotcha. And yeah, the system SHOULD always be set up so the fuse goes first. I assume stock is. Cheers.

Well, I am splicing into a wire that is designed to have 20A instead of 10A as my bolsters require and also the power cable that goes into the bolsters is smaller in diameter (half) than the one that goes into the heating elements of the cair.

[BadgerDog]

Well, I am splicing into a wire that is designed to have 20A instead of 10A as my bolsters require and also the power cable that goes into the bolsters is smaller in diameter (half) than the one that goes into the heating elements of the cair.

Not sure I entirely follow, but as long as you arent putting a larger fuse into the car than its designed for then none of it matters. The fuse will go before the wire. And if you are using a larger gauge wire (as it sounds like) then normally called for that cannot be a bad thing. It will always provide additional overhead and lower resistance. And the fuse will STILL go before the wire, even moreso.

[LordLolzeye]

After I've also talked to an car electrician and understood your advice i've realized it has been done right.

Thank you for all the help