Speaker Upgrade Suggestions

lewis1962 · Post by **lewis1962** » Wed Jan 08, 2020 10:41 pm

I have read a few topics about the above but the amount of variations of what owners have done has left me a bit bamboozled.

Also, when speaking to installers, some are unable to quote due to non fitment for Z4.

I'm after a recommendation for a speaker upgrade with an amplifier.

One installer did mention the Audison APK163 with amp

Cheers

Pbondar · Post by **Pbondar** » Wed Jan 08, 2020 11:33 pm

The relatively easy option is to go with either Eton or Audison who do oem fitment speakers and then use either the AudioTec Fischer or Audison DSP/Amp...

Woofers in the kickwells May need a non oe fitment...

That fits really well, if you have a 18i 20i 28i then you will need to fit an ASD bypass harness as well.....overall that’s the easiest option but even then not quite fully plug n play ...that’s a £2000 exercise...

Other options are a new headunit and your own wiring ...not pretty not easy...

Silverstar · Post by **Silverstar** » Thu Jan 09, 2020 12:37 am

I think it depends on what audio system is already installed in your car and what model Z4 it is and what your budget is. I have the standard 6 speaker basic system and I am thinking to do a very budget upgrade. I have read on another thread some people have successfully installed midrange speakers from Mini in the doors (they are direct OEM fit) and original BMW tweeters in the mirror housing (all plug and play) and apparently this improves the sound at minimal cost. I am also thinking to install some subwoofers in the kick panels and power them via a mono amp which takes the signal from the original woofer speaker wires and then run a new wires from the amp back to the subwoofers. I worked out total cost to do that should be in the region of around £300 to £400. You could use original fit speakers from Eton Focal or the like for the doors instead of the ones from Mini and no doubt the sound would probably be even better but then plan on adding another £100 or so.

mcbutler · Post by **mcbutler** » Thu Jan 09, 2020 5:05 am

Take your car to a professional aftermarket installer and ask for advice and costs.
You will likely walk away with a list of what you need then get an auto electrician to install..

Pbondar · Post by **Pbondar** » Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:07 am

To clarify...you can just swap the mid range speakers with Eton and that in isolation will make a big big difference as they are optimised for use with the original BMW amp subsystem.

lewis1962 · Post by **lewis1962** » Thu Jan 09, 2020 6:49 pm

Based on a recommendation from a specialist, I have ordered a Addison APL163 and a Hertz D Power 4 amp.

Is there anything else I need to think of for a trouble free fitment ?

As I have a 28i do I need to fit the ASD bypass harness mentioned above as the installer didn't mention it ?

Thank you for all your help !

With my smarttop, remap and speaker upgrade, I think that will keep me happy for a while.

Bought the car last month, unbelievable !

Pbondar · Post by **Pbondar** » Thu Jan 09, 2020 11:57 pm

Hi who is doing the install?

lewis1962 · Post by **lewis1962** » Fri Jan 10, 2020 12:09 am

There is an installer close to where I live who is happy to fit the speakers and amps.
I have used him previously on various cars.
One BMW audio specialist mentioned that the speakers behind the headrest are programmed to be louder when the roof is down, I wasn't aware of this

Pbondar · Post by **Pbondar** » Fri Jan 10, 2020 10:28 am

All noted final question before my comments..have you got the basic 6 speaker system or the mid range 11 speaker system?

lewis1962 · Post by **lewis1962** » Fri Jan 10, 2020 11:08 am

Just the standard 6 speaker arrangement, thank you.

Pbondar · Post by **Pbondar** » Fri Jan 10, 2020 12:40 pm

Ah ok thnx for answering all my questions

So..to replace your existing 6 speaker should be straight forward with the following caveats, most of which your fitter should/can/has to cope with!

If you are using the existing head unit and existing wiring then most probably you will have an ASD (Active sound design) box in the boot, on the LHS of the rear bulkhead behind the left seat hidden by the boot liner panel..which is easy to remove /access once you've done the clips that retain the top front section of the cargo net..

IF you have that box (many say they don't have it, but I think its fitted to all 18i 20i 28i) and the 4 cars I examined all lhad it..then..

The issue is that power and outputs from the headunit route through it and then onto the speakers.

If you remove the ASD unit the headunit is disabled and you lose speaker connectivity..

SO if you have the unit, two options, a) hand cut and reroute the speaker inputs into the ASD and tie them to the speaker outputs from tthe ASD to bypass while still keeping it powered up to avoid fault codes and keep the headunit alive or b) by a bypass harness from technic pnp in the states..the same cable is used on MIni and 3 series etc.. if no ASD then ignore this para..

If you are using the front footwell speaker positions for your woofers be aware by default that the wires from those speakers are wired in SERIES on ONE channel normally..the intercept point for the conection to turn it into two channels is in the RHS of the boot bulkhead next to where the DSP/AMP would be if you had the 11 or 14 speaker system.

From what I can discern your mid range speakers will not fit the door cards without some butchery..your installers issue to make that happen /make neat etc..

Tweeters should be easier assuming standard size..

Woofers will need an adapter ring fabricating to again compensate for hole size /non standard palcement of screw holes as per door card..

Amp wise if its a 4 channel amp then the output from the headunit is non standard 2.5v ish as opposed to 0.6v.. but you can adjust the gain on the amp is assume if requuired to avoid overdrive and destroying the tweeters!!

Your issues is how you drive the speakers you''ve got, not clear how many tweeters /mid range and woofers you are proposing?

Then with 4 channel amp whcih channel goes to which speakers and whether they are used actively or passive? pls advise what you plan?

Should be a dramatic improvement in quality and 'punch' as the base steruo is only about 15w peak /music power per channel!

RSVP!

willd58 · Post by **willd58** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 3:05 am

lewis1962 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 6:49 pm Based on a recommendation from a specialist, I have ordered a Addison APL163 and a Hertz D Power 4 amp.

Is there anything else I need to think of for a trouble free fitment ?

How did you get on installing the 3 way component speakers? Do they fit? Lots of car audio places have been recommending I ditch the 4" and just get 6.5" + tweeter 2 way components.

bluetooth · Post by **bluetooth** » Sun Jan 26, 2020 1:03 pm

I changed my door speakers with the ETON set and added the ETON tweeters to my 6 speaker system and its a great improvement over stock...might look at the speakers behind the seats/shoulder later, but for now it fits the need...

drewsutton · Post by **drewsutton** » Mon Jan 27, 2020 11:23 pm

Silly question... How can I tell what speaker set up I have? I think they sound above average for stock speakers.

Pbondar · Post by **Pbondar** » Mon Jan 27, 2020 11:49 pm

drewsutton wrote: ↑Mon Jan 27, 2020 11:23 pm Silly question... How can I tell what speaker set up I have? I think they sound above average for stock speakers.

If you remove the speaker cover off the speaker between the two seats at shoulder height you’ll see

No speaker you have the basic six speaker system

One mid range speaker you have the mid range 676 hi fi speaker system

One mid range and one tweeter you have the 14 speaker 677 top hi fi system

Or tip your vin number into a bmw vin decoder and it will come with either stereo or 676 or 677

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