BMW Z4 Common problems. E85/86

[GuidoK]

Best thing is that now that the sticky steering has a permanent free solution.

What's that then?

+1. What's the fix?
Paul

Re-adjusting the off centre adjustment ring that sits between the EPS motor and EPS column.

[mrjmt]

Re-adjusting the off centre adjustment ring that sits between the EPS motor and EPS column.

Do you have a link to this procedure?

[GuidoK]

On the zroadster.com forum there is a 100+ page thread

http://www.zroadster.com/forum/index.ph ... 21/page-75

[T0pless]

My issues: (03 US model)

Coolant expansion tank- Original and began leaking after it's most likely first coolant flush at 100k. A hair line crack was developed that would swell at operating temperature, and shrink to what almost seemed as part of the cast markings.

DISA valve - Valve was partially operable when I first took delivery of the car at 83k. The pin falling out is never an issue when it's mounted in the car since it's pressed against the intake manifold. Aside from the valve, the housing can also be cracked. The O-ring can also leak causing lean firing codes (you can search the popularity of this issue on the e46 forums). The O-ring is a part number for the x<3.0 models. Fortunately for 3.0 users, GAS has developed an o-ring.

CCV- Another problem with earlier model BMW's. In the dead of the Chicago winter, my car struggled to start. It would idle radically, and eventually stall out. Towed it to a shop, and my car simply needed to be warmed up in the shop for 30 minutes. The failed CCV was filled with condensation that froze over the diaphragm. Replacing is very straight forward, and not difficult at all. Took about an hour and a half.

Various oil leaks- The e46 forums have a great thread about different leaks. My issues were the VANOS return line, valve cover gasket, and oil filter housing gasket.

Vanos seals 95k- Admittedly, I replaced this simply because of what I've read. My seals were in great shape, most likely do to previous consistent oil changes. I did not have the rattle issue, but I figured I would address this issue if I'm already taking apart the VANOS unit.

LCAB- My alignment was off when I first took delivery at 83k. They were completely shot. Fortunately, replacement was pretty straight forward and I used the Meyle HD bushings.

Sway bar links 85k- boots were torn causing the grease to come out. Eventually this lead to clunking. Quick fix, but just remember to have both wheels off the ground (don't ask me why I didn't know that in the first place).

Strut braces 85k- It took me about a week to figure out where my suspension clunking was coming from. It's a pretty popular "issue", with a very simple fix. Tighten bolts on the strut mount fixings, and above the firewall.

Torn strut mount- By 85k, my shocks were just about toast. They didn't show any weeping, but most likely because that happened long before I took the car. The z4 is a very stiff chassis, so you most likely won't realize what you're missing out on until you actually replace shock components. Aside from that, torn strut mounts are very popular. This is usually the first thing to go after hitting a bad bump (or lots of tracking). The strut mount housing can also bellow from a hard impact. Many use the e46 reinforcement kits.

squeaky stowed top 85k- If you have an early model, it most likely has the locking component above the center storage compartment. Some consider removing the lock simply because BMW eventually does as well, but a bit of tape around the springs within the lock quiet them down.

Autodimming mirrors- This isn't specifically a z4 problem, but virtually a problem with all autodimming mirrors. After years of exposure to hot-cold cycles, the housing can expand and break the seal of the mirror. A bubble can form in the mirror, and the electrochromatic gel can also leak. This should be addressed soon because it is extremely caustic to in(ex)terior components.

Wheel sensors 105k- I have an intermittent wheel sensor problem that shows a yellow brake light and the traction control off. I can never properly diagnose it as it can come and go. I cleaned them a few months back and they haven't been a problem since.

Wind shield replacement- If your not using OEM glass, forget about your auto sensing wipers if equipped. I've tried resealing, a new sensing unit, and coding. I still get a light-related issue.

passenger seat won't recline- Early model BMWs suffer from fading plastic gears. Unfortunately the z4 seat doesn't allow access to the reclining gear (and of course it's the only gear that isn't accessible). My sport seats had the problem, and the M seats I have installed also have it.

These are the biggest things. While it sounds like a lot of stuff, it really isn't bad considering that nearly all of my components were original. After about 100k and 13 years of aging, I consider my z4 extremely reliable. Aside from the CCV, nothing has actually kept my car from going A to B. Nearly all replacements were straight forward, and required very little shop help (could not compress sport springs due to clearance issues. All coding was done by a shop.) My car has also never seen a check engine light, or service engine soon.

[Chezsherman]

Really good thread. And some useful information.
Also the ABS pump can be a problem.

[BisB]

z4 2016 hard top when closed rattles like a sob over bumps. Any solutions out there? Thanks!

[mmm-five]

I’ve only had #1 and #6, but the diff was swapped under warranty at about 80,000 miles, and again under insurance (after an accident) at 150,000 miles.

Never had a spring break, but replaced the whole setup with Bilstein kit at about 120,000 miles.

If the handbrake became too high, itwas always adjusted back to 2-3 clicks during servicing.

[kis]

z4 2016 hard top when closed rattles like a sob over bumps. Any solutions out there? Thanks!

You might find contradicting info here mate, if you're a 2016 then you'll be 2nd Gen. This is for e85 and e86 models... so up till 2008/2009

[Mikkie]

If anyone is looking for someone to relocate their roof motor following water damage I can highly recommend Ross North of Basingstoke. He moved mine a few years ago and did a great job.

I am however having a few audio issues with my stereo, not sure if its the head unit or wiring to the speakers. The speakers cut in and out, the only consistent speaker i have is the left door or dash speakers. The Head unit seems to have a few issues also which makes me that is the problem, one side of the head unit none of the buttons or functions work, but the left seems totally fine.

If anyone has any solutions I would appreciate the pointers or recommendations for new head units that work with the current speakers.

Thanks,
M

[Danz4coupe]

Drivers seat develops a squeak....as I've just recently found out

[rdm05z4]

Drivers seat develops a squeak....as I've just recently found out

Are you sure it is the cars driver seat and not the older driver?

[GTwice]

Drivers seat develops a squeak....as I've just recently found out

And if it's sports seat then it's missing springs underneath, sooner or later it will collapse.

[kis]

If anyone is looking for someone to relocate their roof motor following water damage I can highly recommend Ross North of Basingstoke. He moved mine a few years ago and did a great job.

I am however having a few audio issues with my stereo, not sure if its the head unit or wiring to the speakers. The speakers cut in and out, the only consistent speaker i have is the left door or dash speakers. The Head unit seems to have a few issues also which makes me that is the problem, one side of the head unit none of the buttons or functions work, but the left seems totally fine.

If anyone has any solutions I would appreciate the pointers or recommendations for new head units that work with the current speakers.

Thanks,
M

Ross has set up his own place now. RBM. See here... probably your first port of call, if you're still in that sort of area! Lots of good feedback, see here

[Danz4coupe]

Drivers seat develops a squeak....as I've just recently found out

Are you sure it is the cars driver seat and not the older driver?

Could well be that..

[Roberltd2]

Corroding reluctor rings: Not expensive to replace as long as the drive shafts have not corroded too badly as well
Corroded engine sump: Very expensive (£500+) to replace on the 2.5si but a relatively straightforward job.