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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
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- Location: Thatcham, Berkshire
Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
Could be up for the boot nets if you do
E86 In sapphire black
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
Only got a brief bit of time on the car this weekend, which was spent trying to do my first DIY alignment/camber setting. Having changed both steering tie rods to go straight meant having the steering wheel 90 degrees to the right
I bought a cheapo camber gauge from Amazon, then got some string going front to back. Its a massively unscientific approach given my driveway isn't flat, but I was just hoping to get it somewhere close so it felt OK to drive somewhere for a proper geo.
To sort the camber meant taking both front struts off to get at the adjustable top mounts, but was then relatively simple to sort - I've managed to get both sides around 2 degrees negative camber now.
On the alignment, the passenger side wasn't too bad - just toeing out by a couple of mm. The driver's side was another story - it was toeing in by a whopping 73mm! No wonder it felt a bit pissed.
Managed to get them to a point where they are toeing out by 1 - 2mm on each side and took it around the block - hey presto it'll actually drive straight with the steering wheel centred now. It's not perfect, but at least it feels safe enough to drive somewhere to get the geo done properly.
Next up, hopefully the brakes - I've got new discs, lines and fluid, just waiting for the Pagid RS29 pads to arrive and it'll all be good to go.
I bought a cheapo camber gauge from Amazon, then got some string going front to back. Its a massively unscientific approach given my driveway isn't flat, but I was just hoping to get it somewhere close so it felt OK to drive somewhere for a proper geo.
To sort the camber meant taking both front struts off to get at the adjustable top mounts, but was then relatively simple to sort - I've managed to get both sides around 2 degrees negative camber now.
On the alignment, the passenger side wasn't too bad - just toeing out by a couple of mm. The driver's side was another story - it was toeing in by a whopping 73mm! No wonder it felt a bit pissed.
Managed to get them to a point where they are toeing out by 1 - 2mm on each side and took it around the block - hey presto it'll actually drive straight with the steering wheel centred now. It's not perfect, but at least it feels safe enough to drive somewhere to get the geo done properly.
Next up, hopefully the brakes - I've got new discs, lines and fluid, just waiting for the Pagid RS29 pads to arrive and it'll all be good to go.
Last edited by Toppy on Sun Jan 17, 2021 9:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
They've come out already...let me find where I've put them and I'll let you know!
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- Joined: Sat May 11, 2019 10:12 pm
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
Thanks Toppy, let me know what you want for them
E86 In sapphire black
- Z4C_er
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
Thanks Toppy, but no, I'm after two large rectangular grilles. Sounds like you don't have the subbies. Thanks anyway!
2006.5 E86 Z4C si SE Phoenix Yellow
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
Been quite a while since the last update...progress has been slow due to bad weather, work, lockdown and general laziness.
Finally, I got round to sorting out the brakes - I have swpapped lines for HEL braided ones, new OEM discs and Pagid RS29 pads, followed by a full flush of RBF660 brake fluid.
After this I wanted to do the water pump and thermostat as there was no history of them having been done previously. I managed to get some these delivered from Poland at a decent price <£300 for both, including the Pierburg OEM pump. The swap was easy, but I did struggle to get the system filled again without airlocks to allow the bleeding process to happen. A good bit of faffing later and a fair bit of coolant split on the driveway got it going.
The car has now spent the last week at Abbey Motorsport. I managed to shear one of the ARB bracket studs a while back and depsite my attempts to resolve using a rivnut, couldn't get it sorted to my liking. Abbey have now welded in a nut, and then done a full geo setup for me - ride heights, alignment, camber and droplink lengths to get the suspension pre-load done.
I've just had a set of Nankang AR1s delivered, so next up is an attempt at refurbing the front 2 spare set of MV1s I've got and getting them fitted.
Hopefully, all in time to get out on track at Donington Park in April!
Finally, I got round to sorting out the brakes - I have swpapped lines for HEL braided ones, new OEM discs and Pagid RS29 pads, followed by a full flush of RBF660 brake fluid.
After this I wanted to do the water pump and thermostat as there was no history of them having been done previously. I managed to get some these delivered from Poland at a decent price <£300 for both, including the Pierburg OEM pump. The swap was easy, but I did struggle to get the system filled again without airlocks to allow the bleeding process to happen. A good bit of faffing later and a fair bit of coolant split on the driveway got it going.
The car has now spent the last week at Abbey Motorsport. I managed to shear one of the ARB bracket studs a while back and depsite my attempts to resolve using a rivnut, couldn't get it sorted to my liking. Abbey have now welded in a nut, and then done a full geo setup for me - ride heights, alignment, camber and droplink lengths to get the suspension pre-load done.
I've just had a set of Nankang AR1s delivered, so next up is an attempt at refurbing the front 2 spare set of MV1s I've got and getting them fitted.
Hopefully, all in time to get out on track at Donington Park in April!
- Liam22
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
Good progress. I'd be interested to know what length your front ARB drop links ended up at.
Did you run the water pump auto-bleed cycle? I've found it to be pretty reliable. Ign pos II, WOT for 10s.
Did you run the water pump auto-bleed cycle? I've found it to be pretty reliable. Ign pos II, WOT for 10s.
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
I got the auto-bleed to run, my issue was getting the new coolant far enough around the circuit first for that to work...got there in the end.
I'll take a wheel off and have a measure of the droplinks for you next weekend.
I'll take a wheel off and have a measure of the droplinks for you next weekend.
- Liam22
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
Thanks! FWIW, after starting out too short, I've now ended up with 200mm drop links from a Proton!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233715926533
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233715926533
- Tanel
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
3.0si coupe | BC Racing | Kerscher CS | Morimoto D2S 5.0
- TomK
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
More caster angle. The Z4M comes like that from the factory.
MC[IB], CSL airbox, Schrick 288/280 cams, 4.44FD, UUC SSK, SS race cat back, AP CP9660[F]/5144[R] brakes, Apex ARC-8 with AR-1 or PS5, KW ClubSport 2-way, Turner spherical arms, PMC uniball rtab, VB engine mounts, Rogue pulleys & RSMs, Tillett B6, half cage
- Tanel
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
And how does it translate to the steering feel?
My car is annoyingly twitchy on uneven roads. Does this fix that or makes it even worse?
3.0si coupe | BC Racing | Kerscher CS | Morimoto D2S 5.0
- TomK
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
It's a fairly complex subject that I don't fully understand, however one possibility is that a higher caster angle will allow you to run less static camber (as there will be more negative camber applied as more lock is applied).
High static camber is often a cause of tramlining or the feeling of the wheel being pulled about in your hands on a bumpy road say.
What camber are you running at the front?
MC[IB], CSL airbox, Schrick 288/280 cams, 4.44FD, UUC SSK, SS race cat back, AP CP9660[F]/5144[R] brakes, Apex ARC-8 with AR-1 or PS5, KW ClubSport 2-way, Turner spherical arms, PMC uniball rtab, VB engine mounts, Rogue pulleys & RSMs, Tillett B6, half cage
- Liam22
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
Simple version: more caster provides better braking stability and stronger self-centring
The affect on camber is mostly negligible.
Twitchiness on bumpy roads is more likely related to front wheel alignment and/or worn components. Increase toe-in to compensate.
The affect on camber is mostly negligible.
Twitchiness on bumpy roads is more likely related to front wheel alignment and/or worn components. Increase toe-in to compensate.
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Z4C...attempting to go from write-off to race car
The final stages before the first track day next week are now done...giving the spare set of MV1's a little refurb. Not tried that before, but was too difficult - just a bit of a slow and dull process. The finish isn't perfect but good enough for use as a track set of wheels.
These have now got a set of Nankang AR1s fitted ready to go for what could be a cold and damp Donington track day next week.
I took it out for a test run today...there's an annoying loud squeal from the rear brakes when coming to a stop (<10mph only), regardless of whether I'm on the brakes or not. I assume it's something to do with the handbrake, but any ideas much appreciated!
These have now got a set of Nankang AR1s fitted ready to go for what could be a cold and damp Donington track day next week.
I took it out for a test run today...there's an annoying loud squeal from the rear brakes when coming to a stop (<10mph only), regardless of whether I'm on the brakes or not. I assume it's something to do with the handbrake, but any ideas much appreciated!