Replacing water pump

[RenoRaines]

Hi guys,
Well I got an oil filter housing gasket leak. So this less-than-10-bucks gasket led to replacing the thermostat and water pump, thermostat and belts replacement plan. I have a 2004 2.2 Z4. Going thorugh BMW TIS and this forum I couldn't find official instructions on how to do this. Space is very limited and I found a video where a guy loosens the motor mount and than jacks and lifts the engine to get the water pump out. Which I kinda doubt is the official procedure. Anyone got any links or is willing to share this 'wonderful' experience with water pump?

[mjennings23]

Pretty much the easiest way, official procedure calls for the use of a tool that sits on the strut towers and lifts the engine from above. You release the left side mount (intake side) while leaving the other side attached, that way the engine shifts to the side as it lifts thus giving enough room to get the water pump out.

Yes, some smart engineer stuck a structural crossmember web right in front of the pump. Genius eh?

In reality, it sounds a bit daunting but I managed to swap my pump, thermostat, hoses and expansion tank on the driveway in around 2 hours, taking my time. The proper fill and bleed procedure afterwards took longer!

[RenoRaines]

No wonder my go-to-guy said he's on vacation There's hardly any room for your hand to slide in.
Since I'm taking alternator out too - for replacing the gasket oil filter housing - is there any adjustment needed or is everything down to tensioner?

[mjennings23]

No wonder my go-to-guy said he's on vacation There's hardly any room for your hand to slide in.
Since I'm taking alternator out too - for replacing the gasket oil filter housing - is there any adjustment needed or is everything down to tensioner?

Take the fan out and you get a load more space, the slam panel is just 2 torx screws and 8 plastic rivets, the fan is one torx screw and one push pin, along with the electrical connections. Very simple and gives significantly more room.

Regarding the belt, it’s just the tensioner and it’s self adjusting. Might be wise to replace it and the idler pulley next to the alternator depending on their age, along with the belts.

[RenoRaines]

On M54 engines people usually take out the fan which is bolted on water pump. In my case the fan is electrical and mounted in front of radiator mount bracket - "wall". Metal slam bracket as you call it. Taking the fan out doesn't change anything unless I'm taking out the whole metal piece on which radiator sits.

Like in this video:
https://youtu.be/YKphkCyEccs

[mjennings23]

I'm aware, I have an M54 and have changed the water pump on my driveway.

Removing the fan improves access to the bolts holding the pump in, and also the pulley bolts. It also makes it possible to wriggle the pump out once the engine is lifted. As you're only lifting the intake side it causes the engine to tip sideways, therefore allowing you to pull the pump out to the side of the crossmember.

For the sake of 5 minutes to pull the fan, you gain an awful lot of space. I'm not sure it's even possible to remove the pump with the fan Insitu as it sits exactly where you pull the pump out.

[RenoRaines]

OK. You were right. Removing the fan (3min of work) did make a lot of room. Removing the pump really did call for lifting the engine a bit on LHS. Unbolting one nut from the engine mount and lifting the engine. I also removed and replaced both belts, thermostat and - while being there - replacing oil filter assy gasket. This one includes taking alternator belt off, undoing VANOS oil feed behing the filter few connectors and 5-6 bolts on the assy itself. Not a biggy at all. Just takes some time and patience.

@mjennings23: Thanks again for you help

[mjennings23]

Not too bad a job once you get over the "lifting the engine" obstacle, eh