N52 spark plug and coil change how to

[Ed Doe]

Thanks for the write up!

Couple of things;
1. Why did you gap the plugs? Ngk website says they're pre-gapped - should be no need to gap them?

2. Ducklakeview fraid you're definitely wrong - the n52 throttle body is entirely a backup, under normal operation the valvetronic acts against throttle request to simulate what a butterfly valve would.
http://www.bmwblog.com/2016/07/25/valve ... le-system/

[groovy_hippy]

Ah yes, I missed the bit about gapping the plugs.

NGK website says gap should be 1.1mm :
https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9823

Mine arrived with a 1mm gap... plus, reading the odd bit around the interweb, others had set theirs to 1.1mm...

And the bit about Carly - we used an OBDII reader that had a 'clear all DTCs' option. No idea if it does anything, but since we had it we did it. For sure, probably not a full on system reset!

A good couple hundred miles in and we're still doing good...

[Ed Doe]

^thanks for the clarification - good to know you had to adjust the gap, interesting considering they're supposed to be pre-gapped!

[ph001]

DTC's are fault codes, not adaptations.

[BMW_User]

gap

Trying to figure out what I'd need to do it myself.
I'm not clear on the tools.

Somewhere I have read spark plug socket 14mm 3/8, here it seems to be 16mm 3/8. What is M10? I've also found 5/8 on another forum.
What is the right measure for this engine (N52)?? Do you need a special "thin wall" for this kind of tube?

The extension socket, how long does it have to be?

The gap on NGK spark plugs. Can it be left as is?

The torque wrench, is it necessary? Can it be found in any wrench sets or does it have to be bought separately?

Could you point me/us where to buy these tools in the UK? I think I could find everything on Amazon or Halfords, but I would like to avoid buying a whole set of tools that I won't use.

How much would it cost to have all the spark plugs replaced by a car dealership? I'm happy to spend more in the end if this saves time in research and work. Time is - also - money..

Thanks.

[andyf1140]

Don't try and use a standard short plug socket with an extension bar, unless you have a professional one that locks to the extension bar the socket will end up being left on the spark plug at the bottom of a deep hole. You can buy a long spark plug socket with a magnetic end to hold the spark plug from Halfords. I'm going to get one for my 2.0. I'm not sure if the plugs are the same size but mine are 16mm AF so I'm going to get one of these

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... lug+socket

[Beemer233]

Good 'how to ' Groovy.I would mention a good precautionary dab of anti seize compound on the new plug threads to help with future removal and avoid pulling thread material from the cylinder head at next change.

Just be aware that torque settings are quoted 'dry' ....the use of any sort of lubrication or anti-sieze compound can result in the over-tightening of spark plugs and other components...future heli-coiling must be avoided at all costs!

[BMW_User]

Don't try and use a standard short plug socket with an extension bar, unless you have a professional one that locks to the extension bar the socket will end up being left on the spark plug at the bottom of a deep hole. You can buy a long spark plug socket with a magnetic end to hold the spark plug from Halfords. I'm going to get one for my 2.0. I'm not sure if the plugs are the same size but mine are 16mm AF so I'm going to get one of these

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... lug+socket

OK, thanks, I found that one on Amazon as well, but I'm not sure if it's thin wall and will be fine. My engine is a 2.5 si and will probably need the 14mm instead.

[markalp]

It's the valvetronic motor that controls valve lift not timing. Basically it acts instead of a butterfly throttle body.

Erm, no it doesn't..

Mike

lol it always make me smile when I see your posts like this one.. short, sweet, and to the point. So much authority in so few words

[Beemer233]

Thanks for the write up!

Couple of things;
1. Why did you gap the plugs? Ngk website says they're pre-gapped - should be no need to gap them?

2. Ducklakeview fraid you're definitely wrong - the n52 throttle body is entirely a backup, under normal operation the valvetronic acts against throttle request to simulate what a butterfly valve would.
http://www.bmwblog.com/2016/07/25/valve ... le-system/

Its not unknown to discover bent electrodes upon opening up a new boxed plugs! ....checking the plug gap is essential unless its the Splitfire 3 electrode type....

[Ed Doe]

It's the valvetronic motor that controls valve lift not timing. Basically it acts instead of a butterfly throttle body.

Erm, no it doesn't..

Mike

lol it always make me smile when I see your posts like this one.. short, sweet, and to the point. So much inaccuracy in so few words

Corrected for you

[BMW_User]

Don't try and use a standard short plug socket with an extension bar, unless you have a professional one that locks to the extension bar the socket will end up being left on the spark plug at the bottom of a deep hole. You can buy a long spark plug socket with a magnetic end to hold the spark plug from Halfords. I'm going to get one for my 2.0. I'm not sure if the plugs are the same size but mine are 16mm AF so I'm going to get one of these

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... lug+socket

Got it. I am now trying to remove the rubber ignition coils, but they seem to be very hard to pull.
There doesn't seem to be a way to remove 4 out of 6 of them, even if I keep twisting left and right while pulling.
I had to stop as I think there must be a better way to do it or use some sort of tool.

Another thing that I noticed is that right above 2 of the ignition coils there is a light metal frame attached to the top of the engine which is used to hold the bolts needed for the plastic cover.
I believe I will need to remove that frame if I want to access those 2 plugs - and that needs another type of wrench.

[ph001]

When you lift the clip to remove the coil pack, put a large metal screwdriver through the oval holes of the clip and pull on the screwdriver.