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1967 Ford Mustang

Discussion of other cars non-Z4
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Mr Tidy
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1967 Ford Mustang

Post by Mr Tidy » Thu Aug 10, 2017 11:07 pm

Fantastic car OP - I'd leave the exhaust as it is though! :lol:

Great to see you are keeping it looking as it should as far as possible but with sensible upgrades. :thumbsup:

I hope you have many happy miles in it. :driving:
Coupes because stunning!
Current - Silver Grey MC, Imola Red heated Nappa & carbon trim. Aeros, H & R Coil-overs, 224s, OE Strut brace, Nav, cup-holders, DSP Hi-Fi, pdc, cruise, MFSW, no CDV! E90 330i daily
Gone - Montego Blue
Gone - Ruby Black

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Richard!
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1967 Ford Mustang

Post by Richard! » Thu Aug 24, 2017 12:52 pm

Exhaust Upgrade

The car came with a straight through exhaust and some small silencers.It sounded fantastic, loud & exciting.However after driving for 30 minutes it wasn’t good on the ears.I drove with ear plugs pretty all the time.Not sure all of my neighbours were particularly happy when I occasionally left early or arrived late :D.
So the plan was to change to a Varex exhaust to get the best of both. Loud for fun, quite for longer drives and early starting.Check out the sound comparison video at the end of this post.
See more pictures here: http://www.mustang67.co.uk/exhaust-upgrade/

Old exhaust removal
The exhaust was welded front to back, that made it a bit of a challenge to remove.We salvaged the old exhaust mounts for potential re-use.Also had an inspection from one of my parents cats ( Lex ) He’s a house cat, however broke out to make sure things were being done correctly :D
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Headers & Downpipes
For now I’m going to re-use the original headers and downpipes.In the future may upgrade these.Removing the downpipes was quite a challenge, the nuts were firmly rusted in place.It required heating the nuts to red hot and quickly cooling them to break them loose.
The X-pipe was held up and sleeves tacked onto the header pipes.Once removed the sleeves were shaped and welded on.I’m not going to win any welding awards, but should do the job at least. Downpipes were given a coat of zinc paint to help protect them from corrosion as they are mid steel.
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Silencer installation, simple hole for each one.
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Tail Pipes V1
The rear pipes did not line up with the rear of the car, they also did not go around the tank.So to fix this the over axel pipes were cut and a sleeve added to allow rotation.The last bend that goes around the tank was adjusted by cutting a wedge out and re-welding.This worked really well for getting the pipes in to the correct location.When the car was lowered the spacing between the axel and the exhaust was checked unfortunately there was only 1cm space on the drivers side to the differential.On the passenger side there was 16cm.The gap to the bump stops is around 20cm.As much as I’d have loved to just get on a drive at that stage I had to leave it and make modifications.
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Tail Pipes V2
To increase the spacing the over axel pipes needed to be made vertical.This moved them away from the differential.To get the tail pipes to fit after this change the section from the rear of the over axel bends to the tail pipe needed to be modified.The drop on the rear over axel section was shortened. The straight section then had to lengthened and rotated to fit.Everything was tacked up into place then removed properly welded and re-installed.This was done to both sides.The passenger side might have been ok under most conditions however I felt much happier re-doing that one too.Now I don’t need to worry about it anymore.
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With all of the changes there is plenty of clearance now.
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All done, big thank you to my family for all the help with getting this project done. Wouldn’t have been possible without all of the help.
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The sound
The below video show a comparison between original / new – open / new – closed.The actual dB is probably different ( not exactly scientific ), however it shows a relative difference.The phone was placed at a 45 degree angle 50cm away from the exhaust tip.

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85genius
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Post by 85genius » Thu Aug 24, 2017 3:25 pm

that is amazing would love to do similar one day
Audi quattro driver :o
NOW SOLD - Ruby Black 3.0 SI Roadster :(
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Machine monkey
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1967 Ford Mustang

Post by Machine monkey » Thu Aug 24, 2017 3:53 pm

Beautiful car


I don’t suppose you live or have travelled to the west Oxfordshire area. I have seen one very similar in my home town. Might have been a different colour i am fairly colour blind!!!
My little blue zed is in lots of bits. With lots of things started and not many finished! I may have found the limits of my time and ability!!

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Richard!
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Post by Richard! » Thu Aug 24, 2017 5:06 pm

If you've spotted me it'll be Hampshire / Berkshire area :)

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Zeddicus
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Post by Zeddicus » Thu Aug 24, 2017 5:12 pm

Richard! wrote: Thu Aug 24, 2017 12:52 pm All done, big thank you to my family for all the help with getting this project done. Wouldn’t have been possible without all of the help
I see the cat has done all the dirty work :P

I own a very similar 1967 289 V8 coupe, same interior but Candy apple red exterior.
Funny to see we both have the same cars (Z4/Mustang) - and good taste! :wink:
I'll share some pictures later.
Z4 3.0si Coupe 2007 - Sapphire Black

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Zeddicus
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Post by Zeddicus » Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:26 pm

Your exhaust mod is really nice, just the straight pipes sound so good though! The V8 is definitely something you can't compare with other engine built. I just can't get enough of cruising and then straight accelerations...

I also found the car itself, especially coupes from this era (67-68'), to have lines and dimensions that makes them appealing today as retro/classic cars. IMHO, in a complete different league as other classic muscle cars. It doesn't bother me that it is not very "rare", I just find it to be a special car in automotive industry, and very proud of owning one (next to the Z4 coupe ofc :) ).
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Z4 3.0si Coupe 2007 - Sapphire Black

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Richard!
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Post by Richard! » Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:02 pm

Very nice, looks in fanatisc shape! Love the wheels.
Completely agree in regard to the coupe, for me there is just something about the shape that I really love.

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Zeddicus
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Post by Zeddicus » Fri Aug 25, 2017 6:10 am

I haven't touched at the exhaust yet, the current one is not too bad but doesn't provide the "thrill" I am looking for. Magnaflow is probably what I would go for next year. Right now I have a couple of things to fix up, that includes wiring/harness replacement cause I am not feeling really safe with 50 years old wires... and I definitely should replace the water pump and radiator. That V8 really requires some proper cooling when outside temps are getting hot as they have been lately here... :roll:

Ultimately I want to make it as reliable as possible and safe on the road, as a "daily" driver although I don't need it to go to work everyday - the gas budget per year would anyway prevent me to do so, lol :D
Z4 3.0si Coupe 2007 - Sapphire Black

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Richard!
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Post by Richard! » Sat Sep 02, 2017 9:14 am

The wiring in mine is well, err not great. Plenty of stripped, twisted wires with insulating tape over. Some of the poor wiring was done recently when the car was converted for UK use. A full re-wire is in my future plans, at the moment it works so there is no rush.


Overflow tank

The kit came with rivets to install the brackets, however the side of the radiator has convenient holes for mounting with bolts.A new radiator cap was needed to allow any coolant that ends up in the overflow tank to be drawn back into the system as the engine cools.

Quick simple upgrade, no more coolant overflow :)

http://www.mustang67.co.uk/overflow-tank/

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Darren Slone
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Post by Darren Slone » Sat Sep 02, 2017 9:43 am

That's an absolute beauty 8)

Current Porsche Cayman S 987.1

Now sold - Imola Z4MC

Now sold - Silver Grey Z4MC
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‘71 Datsun 240Z imported from West Coast USA

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Russ59
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Post by Russ59 » Sat Sep 02, 2017 10:27 am

Zeddicus wrote: Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:26 pm Your exhaust mod is really nice, just the straight pipes sound so good though! The V8 is definitely something you can't compare with other engine built. I just can't get enough of cruising and then straight accelerations...

I also found the car itself, especially coupes from this era (67-68'), to have lines and dimensions that makes them appealing today as retro/classic cars. IMHO, in a complete different league as other classic muscle cars. It doesn't bother me that it is not very "rare", I just find it to be a special car in automotive industry, and very proud of owning one (next to the Z4 coupe ofc :) ).


Another fine example😍😍
2005, 3.0l Toledo Blue, sports seats, sports suspension, ZHP, MFSW,4 clear spot rear lights, clear side repeaters and third brake light , 19" AXE EX14 wheels, DIY carbon badges, interior parts gloss black wrapped, rear spoiler

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Post by mcbeee » Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:38 pm

It's a nice looking restoration, I wouldn't be modding it as it just devalues the car. The closer to original the better it is.
Sold the Z4 M Roadster and a 911 Carrera S now I have a 2021 Z4 3.0i
8) 8) 8)

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Richard!
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Post by Richard! » Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:38 pm

I understand that its desirable to keep things original. I do want to keep the car as original looking as possible, however will make changes that make the car safer / more reliable. I'm going to install a classic style radio to replace the modern one that was installed at some point.
I am keeping all of the original parts so in the unlikely event that I sell the car the next person will get stock rocker covers, air cleaner, drum brakes etc etc. So if desired the car could be restored to the state in which I bought it.

A little catch up on a few things that have happened of late.

Filler cap
New filler cap, the old one was looking a bit tired.
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Steering wheel emblem
Thought it would be an easy one, ‘just’ replace the steering wheel emblem.The old one was almost impossible to remove.Ended up drilling a hole through it and using some wood as a puller.
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Tail lights
More photos here: http://www.mustang67.co.uk/tail-lights/
The original lights were quite dim and it was hard to tell when the brakes were applied. This was a particularly problem on bright days. I’d like to keep the car as original looking as possible, so a third brake light is not an option. The new lights are far brighter and its much clearer when the brakes are applied. Hopefully it will give other motorist enough warning when i’m slowing down.

The lens housings were cleaned up and repainted. They were looking quite sorry for themselves.

Thank you to Patrick for installing these and doing all that work to restore the lenses :)

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Natural safety switch
More photos here: http://www.mustang67.co.uk/natural-safety-switch/
Since I got the car it kept blowing a fuse. It was intermittent with no particular pattern. I kept putting in fuses with larger and larger ratings. In hindsight not the wisest course of action. Got to 30 amps and it stopped blowing. So I assumed all was well.

While looking at something else my Dad noticed that a wire was touching the exhaust. Turns out this was the wire that goes to the transmission neutral safety & reverse light switch. So fixed the wire, tied it back properly, and thought all was well. Unfortunately that was not the case. The reverse lights were not working anymore (presumably for some time).
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The neutral safety switch was broken, at least the reverse switch part of it. The switch was being shorted out each time the car was put in reverse. With the larger and larger fuses more power was going through which ended up melting the plastic inside the switch. Buying a replacement from the UK costs more than ordering from the US even when the tax and shipping is more than cost of the part :/So for now will repair the existing switch. The unit was removed from the car, opened and repaired. Had to drill out the tabs that held it together as its not really supposed to be serviced. The contacts needed some solder on top to raise them back up to the correct level. After cleaning up the slider arm to remove the melted plastic. The part that holds the reverse switch roller needed new plastic adding to replace what had been melted away. With all fixed it was greased and glued back together. It clipped together quite firmly with a little glue it should hold fine. Woo! reverse light working again, no more blown fuses.
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Post by Richard! » Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:00 pm

Its been a little while since the last update, have been busy with efi, alternator and wheels.

EFI
More photos here:http://www.mustang67.co.uk/efi/

Carburettor rebuild
The story begins with some carburettor issues. Since I got it was not perfect, sometimes it seemed to over-fuel when slowing. However, the main issue was that the secondaries would get stuck open after going to full throttle. This meant that the car would idle at 2k rpm after going full throttle. The only way to get the secondaries to close was to stop the engine and restart. Really not an ideal situation.

Having spent a long time online reading about other people with similar issues and tying an array of possible solutions nothing really worked. Searched for vacuum leaks, checking for obstructions etc. If I lived in the states I’d have looked to buy a replacement carburettor from breakers. This would have been a quick easy way test if it was carb or something else. However not really an easy option in the UK. So decided that the next step was to try a carburettor rebuild. Ordered a kit from the US with everything in that is needed to complete a rebuild. Many of the parts in the kit are old stock as they don’t make these all these parts anymore. But overall a very good kit.

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Took lots of pictures from all angles, at different stages of disassembly to ensure it goes back together the same way it came apart. Also made notes on settings, and positions of the various adjustment screws etc. Something that seemed odd, during this process, was that one of the idle mixture screws was fully screwed in and the other was out 3 turns. The base setting for these is meant to be 1. 5 turns.

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SO many parts

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Many hours later everything was cleaned and reassembled. Sadly that was the end of the good news. Set everything up as per the instructions re-installed on the engine. It did start but it did not run well. Over the course of several weekends tired different sets of instructions for setting up the carb. Inhaled far too may exhaust fumes. Had help from family, only just managed to get it to a semi-usable state. Oddly the mixture screws had to be set as it was when it was taken apart, one all the way in and the other out several turns. After the rebuild, it ran worse than before. The secondaries still got stuck open at full throttle. Tried replacing the points with a hall effect Pertronix ignitor & replaced the old coil with a new one (Flame-Thrower also from Pertronix). Also changed the stock style fuel filter with an external one just in case there were any fuel supply issues. No luck :(

I’m sure that someone with carburettor experience would probably be able to understand what was going on and might be able to fix it. I get the feeling that there must have been some sort of damage on the carb, either blocked channel or some other kind of damage from my rebuild and/or an earlier rebuild.

Holley Sniper EFI system
After spending way too much time on the carburettor I decided it was time for something more drastic. I had a plan to install EFI at some future stage. With all the issues the timeline on this project was moved forward. So ordered a Holley Sniper EFI system. I ordered the master kit which comes with fuel filters, fuel pump, hose & fittings.

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Mechanical fuel pump removed and the hole left in the side of the engine covered with the supplied cover plate.

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Intake manifold removed, damn that’s a heavy lump of iron! I’m used to plastic or aluminium manifolds. The coolant temperature sensor for the EFI system was installed in the location of the original factory temperature sensor, this seemed like the optimal location for the best reading for the EFI. Had to remove the brass adapter in order to fit the new sensor. It wouldn’t unscrew so it had to removed with a Dremel and tapped out.

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The original temperature sensor was installed just behind the thermostat housing. This placed the sensor on the inside loop of the cooling system so the dash gauge has a good reading. To install the sensor a new hole had to be drilled and tapped.

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O2 sensor installed, the Sniper EFI system comes with a no weld solution which is really practical. ‘Simply’ (not so simple without removing the exhaust) drill a hole and bold up.

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The EFI system requires a return line for the fuel. I didn’t fancy removing the tank in order to install the fittings. That left two choices, either return to the filler neck or to the pickup. The latter was chosen as it is more convenient for connecting the return without having to go into the trunk with a fuel line. Patrick did a fantastic job of installing the return fittings into the tank.

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Fuel lines, fuel pump and filters installed. Decided to go with hard lines for the majority of the distance.

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In order to fit the EFI the original spacer plate was needed. It lifts the body up high enough so the throttle linkage clears the top of the engine. The spacer intake holes were polished to remove flash lines and match nicely with the throttle body.

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Wiring was planned out to fit on to the engine neatly. Since I plan to install the Holley Dual Sync distributor all of the wiring & the module for this was prepared in the loom. As and when this part arrives it should be a simple case of plug an play. For now, the original vacuum advance distributor will be used.

The display for the EFI was installed in the centre console behind the roll-up storage compartment. This hides it away keeping a nice stock look. The display is easily accessible when needed.
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All installed, basic setup wizard steps completed!

The first start it kicked into life right away! One short blip on the starter and away it went. Super happy with it :) :)


Second start now with air filter.  (Exhaust flaps closed on these first two starts, didn’t want to annoy the neighbours late in the evening, hehe)


It runs really well on the EFI, very smooth, more responsive on the throttle. Starts right away, no need to worry about cold weather. Driven a few miles with it so far and the system is in the process of learning, not sure it has much to learn as it runs fine already. Really happy with this upgrade.

Alternator Replacement
The original charge system failed and would no longer charge the battery. Upgraded to a one wire alternator replacement. Removed the voltage regulator and installed a 4 gauge power wire to the battery. A nice solid charge on the battery now.

The headlights are much brighter now, will make driving at night a bit easier.
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New Wheels
http://www.mustang67.co.uk/new-wheels/

Ordered some American Racing Torq Thrust D wheels. The colour is vintage silver. They are 15″ x 7J. This will allow the fitting of disc brakes as part of a future upgrade.

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That was not the first set I order :/ Originally I got them in 8.5j. Didn’t think it would be an issue. Unfortunately, they didn’t have much inward offset so the protruded a LOT. It would have required significant modification to the body to get them to fit. This is something I do not want to get into. The car looked a bit silly with these wide wheels…
Returned those wheels and to replace them with the 7J alloys. Big oopsy on that one. For those who might be interested here's a photo.
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