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In a roadster again

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kalt
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In a roadster again

Post by kalt » Fri Apr 27, 2018 2:54 am

Hello everyone,

Recently purchased an e85 3.0 manual, to replace a Mazda MX5 NB 2001. Quite happy with it but needs a few things done to make it perfect.

Good forum with lot's of info, I will be sure to do searches before asking newby questions.

Cheers
Al

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GBZ4
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In a roadster again

Post by GBZ4 » Fri Apr 27, 2018 5:19 am

Hi and welcome to the forum, word to the wise, get some photos posted before the ‘photo police’ come along :thumbsup:
2016 E89 18i Roadster - gone and forgotten

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Crazy Harry
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In a roadster again

Post by Crazy Harry » Fri Apr 27, 2018 7:57 am

Hi and welcome. 3.0 roadster - well done sir :thumbsup:

Have you got any photos for us?

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RustyZ4
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In a roadster again

Post by RustyZ4 » Fri Apr 27, 2018 8:14 am

Hi & Welcome :thumbsup:

Did anyone mention pics :poke:
Z4 Mineral Grey, 28i MSport Auto, lots of goodies
Z4 E85 3.0, gone but now with son :D
Growing Old is Mandatory But Growing Up is Optional

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kalt
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In a roadster again

Post by kalt » Fri Apr 27, 2018 8:28 am

Thanks for the welcome, fellas!

Pic's are in the process, just received a brand new K&N Panel filter ready for fitting tonight (seems to be a divide between oilers and dry filters on this forum) :lol:

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davros
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In a roadster again

Post by davros » Fri Apr 27, 2018 9:39 am

Hi and welcome to the forum :thumbsup:
I also migrated from a mk2 MX5 to an E85 3.0i. They’re both brilliant cars but the sound and pull of the BMW straight six is intoxicating :D
3.0i E85 Sterling Grey, Infinitas supercharger, Aero sills, xenons, pro hi-fi with dsp & nav, power fold mirrors. B12 kit, Eisenmann backbox, //M-Sport Seats, carbon dash, cruise and more mods in near future...... :)

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Marlon
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Post by Marlon » Fri Apr 27, 2018 10:51 am

Welcome along :driving:
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Gone: 3.0si 2008 E85
911 997 Carrera S

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In a roadster again

Post by firebobby » Fri Apr 27, 2018 4:52 pm

Welcome to the forum
BMW Z4 30i 2003 auto 107's Whippy Toledo Blue
Beige M sport seats, wood dash
Toyota MR2 NA 1995
Triumph GT6 1972 (project)
Land Rover Discovery 1994 TDI (Tow car)
Mini 1000 1981

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Mr Tidy
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In a roadster again

Post by Mr Tidy » Fri Apr 27, 2018 9:52 pm

Hi and welcome.

Looking forward to the photos! :)
Coupes because stunning!
Current - Silver Grey MC, Imola Red heated Nappa & carbon trim. Aeros, H & R Coil-overs, 224s, OE Strut brace, Nav, cup-holders, DSP Hi-Fi, pdc, cruise, MFSW, no CDV! E90 330i daily
Gone - Montego Blue
Gone - Ruby Black

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buzyg
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In a roadster again

Post by buzyg » Fri Apr 27, 2018 9:54 pm

Welcome to the forum. :)
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kalt
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In a roadster again

Post by kalt » Tue May 08, 2018 1:14 am

Thanks all!

Am eager to get it out and take photos of the car but I can't get it out of the garage until I find out what is drawing 1.07A from the battery when it's engine off, locked up in garage :(

I read on here the basic minimum parasitic drain is around 30 milliamps, so hunting it down at the moment. The roof button RED LED appears to be dimly lit with the engine turned off and key out - is that normal? Car doesn't have roof activation by remote, as far as I know it is only activated by the key in the doorlock or the buttons on the central console area on the dash.

Any help appreciated to get my photos underway!

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MrPT
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In a roadster again

Post by MrPT » Tue May 08, 2018 9:13 am

kalt wrote: Fri Apr 27, 2018 2:54 am Good forum with lot's of info, I will be sure to do searches before asking newby questions.
Wouldn’t worry too much about this. I know what you are wary of but people don’t tend to get their heads bitten off here for that kind of thing. Lack of pictures is punishable by death, however. :)

A full amp being drawn with the car off is a little worrying. How well does your roof work? If healthy it should take 9-10 seconds to drop. If there is damp around the motor, which is very common, it might explain some electrical gremlins (although I’ve not heard of it causing your symptoms before).

Remote roof activation needs a long and constant press of the button and it only works for lowering the roof, FYI.
2008 Z4MC: heavy wheels | crap suspension | skittish rear end | wobbly engine | not enough induction noise | underwhelming turn in | inconsistent braking | lardy battery | chubby steering wheel
2006 Z4 2.5si: gone

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kalt
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In a roadster again

Post by kalt » Thu May 10, 2018 2:45 am

MrPT wrote: Tue May 08, 2018 9:13 am A full amp being drawn with the car off is a little worrying. How well does your roof work? If healthy it should take 9-10 seconds to drop. If there is damp around the motor, which is very common, it might explain some electrical gremlins (although I’ve not heard of it causing your symptoms before).

Remote roof activation needs a long and constant press of the button and it only works for lowering the roof, FYI.
Thanks MrPT for the tip :) Roof sometimes needs a little help unlatching sometimes, but I think that's due to me operating it without the engine turned on. The car was kept in a garage and unused for a few months by previous owner, I've yet to check the drain holes as I haven't connected the battery back up again, but I think it isn't due to water on the softtop motor. Will definitely check it soon.


:sos: :sos: :sos: :sos: :sos: :sos: :sos:
Currently checking out the way the stereo was wired up and it's causing me a bit of confusion.

Car came with aftermarket AMP and headunit(HU), looks like the stereo harness at the HU is powered from the stock harness, but the speaker wires are chopped off and twist-tied to cables that run through the cabin into the boot where it connects up to another harness with chopped up wiring and twist-tied into some of those cables.

Image

Is that the stock amp connector in the boot? This harness has connectors running to the speakers (I can only identify 6 pairs from the already cut cables) as well as connectors back to the headunit in the cabin (I haven't checked yet), correct?

I am following this guide for identifying the speaker cables:
http://www.modifiedlife.com/2003-bmw-z4 ... ing-guide/

The way the amp was wired in, has me thinking it is only there to power one of the subwoofers behind the seats :thumbsdown:

Brown and Blue wires connected to the Left + and - on the amp, while Yellow and brown wires were connected to the R+ and R- on the Mono Bridge... ?

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