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How to Wire in a Dash Cam (E85/E86)
- Number5
- Lifer
- Posts: 6029
- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2013 7:34 pm
- Location: Bristol M4/M5
How to Wire in a Dash Cam (E85/E86)
Firstly, whilst this is a relatively simple task for the average 'practical' person, please do not attempt this if you are not confident.. You do so at your own risk. (That's the disclaimer out of the way !)
This is for E85/E86 Models only (and All models I have done have been pre-face lift cars)
Edit: Following the subscription now due using photobucket, I have edited this and added the pictures as attachments, however, I am limited to only 10 pictures
This is what you're aiming for. Your Dash Cam base-mount neatly positioned under/behind the rear view mirror with as little wiring showing as possible and an Auto on/off function that follows your ignition:
These are the basic tools you will need:
1 Ensure that your ignition is switched off so there are as few circuits live as possible. Then sit in the passenger seat.
2. Using your finger nails if possible (or small flat Screwdriver if not) prize out the RIGHT hand side of the interior light cluster, by pulling down.
3 Once the right hand side is out, lower it and then the left hand side will un-clip and the unit will hang free and out of the way. (Do not try to get the left side out first)
4. Up in the roof cavity you will find a loom of wiring coming in from the Drivers side. This splits into three smaller looms.
a) Goes to the Light Cluster - Ignore this one
b) Is a thicker loom and goes to the Mirror - ignore this one too
c) Is the thinnest loom and goes to the rain sensor - This is the one you want.
Strip back the 'fluffy tape' from this wire carefully, to expose 4 wires. The one you want to separate is the Violet&White wire. This is the Positive that becomes live when the ignition is on.
5) Connecting to the Supply
Using a Scotch Block (or other suitable connector) you need to join the Positive (Red) wire from your Dash Cam Power Supply Unit (PSU), to this Violet&White Cable, like this:
I did not cut the Violet wire. I just lined it up with the metal jaws of the connector, added the Red Dash -cam wire and then pinched it closed using the Pliers.
6. You then need to 'Ground' the PSU to the Car's metal bodywork, with the black cable from the PSU. I used the crosshead screw that goes into the bracket up inside the light cavity. (This usually holds the SatNav/GPRS aerial. If you don't have SatNav, you will still have the bracket, but may need to find a screw to fit, as the holes will be empty)
i) Losen the screw a few turns,
ii) Strip the end of the black cable approx 20mm,
iii) Wind the stripped cable around the screw or better still, crimp an eyelet on the end of the cable and secure it around the screw.
iv) Re-tighten the screw, ensuring the cable is tightly pinched. 7. Feed the USB Plug down
You now need to feed the mini USB end of the DashCam PSU Cable, from the Interior Light Cavity, against the glass, down through the Rain Sensor housing . Un-clip the Housing by splitting it into two halves, down the middle seem. This is easy to do with bare hands, once the mirror is angled out of the way.
8. Testing the Camera
At this point you can plug your Camera in loosely, turn the ignition on and test it...
If it doesn't work check all of your connections are tight, re-pinch the connector block to ensure you've 'bitten' the cable, or that the Ground is good.
If the Camera does start up - great. Well done ! Now turn the ignition back off and carry on.
9) Refit the Light Cluster- loosely
Once you've got enough cable hanging out at the bottom of the housing area, bundle up any spare USB cable (you cannot cut it !) and then locate the PSU and all spare cable up in the interior light cavity, out of the way. Use some double-sided sticky pads or a cable tie to secure the PSU and avoid possible rattles (There's plenty of room up there)
Inserting the left side first, then lifting the right, re-fit the Interior Light Cluster loosely to get it up out of the way. You may need to remove it again later, in-case of problems, but make sure the light switches are nearest the rear of the car !.
10) Refit the Sensor Housing by aligning up the two halves and clipping together. Again position the mirror best to facilitate this. Once fitted, position your mirror back into the normal driving position.
11) Fitting the Camera Base
Now fit your camera base in the required position, using the sticky pad it should come with. (This is best done with the camera attached so that you dont find the mirror or housing is later in the way when you come to position it !)
12) Final Checks
Sit in the Drivers seat,. Turn the Ignition on again, Check the Camera starts and will sit in the desired position. The camera should go off shortly after the ignition is switched off. Check the mirror is OK for driving and if all is good, give the interior light the final push it needs to clip back in properly.
Tidy up the cable as best as you can between the mirror housing and the camera base, ensuring there's a nice loop to take the pressure off the plug & socket in the base
Thats it - All done !
If anyone has any comments on the above, please let me know and I will edit the original guide.
You can buy additional bases for most Dash-Cams (I use the Mini0803) and I have installed bases in my other cars, so I can easily switch the camera between vehicles on the weekends.
Good luck - I hope this is useful !
- Number 5
This is for E85/E86 Models only (and All models I have done have been pre-face lift cars)
Edit: Following the subscription now due using photobucket, I have edited this and added the pictures as attachments, however, I am limited to only 10 pictures
This is what you're aiming for. Your Dash Cam base-mount neatly positioned under/behind the rear view mirror with as little wiring showing as possible and an Auto on/off function that follows your ignition:
These are the basic tools you will need:
1 Ensure that your ignition is switched off so there are as few circuits live as possible. Then sit in the passenger seat.
2. Using your finger nails if possible (or small flat Screwdriver if not) prize out the RIGHT hand side of the interior light cluster, by pulling down.
3 Once the right hand side is out, lower it and then the left hand side will un-clip and the unit will hang free and out of the way. (Do not try to get the left side out first)
4. Up in the roof cavity you will find a loom of wiring coming in from the Drivers side. This splits into three smaller looms.
a) Goes to the Light Cluster - Ignore this one
b) Is a thicker loom and goes to the Mirror - ignore this one too
c) Is the thinnest loom and goes to the rain sensor - This is the one you want.
Strip back the 'fluffy tape' from this wire carefully, to expose 4 wires. The one you want to separate is the Violet&White wire. This is the Positive that becomes live when the ignition is on.
5) Connecting to the Supply
Using a Scotch Block (or other suitable connector) you need to join the Positive (Red) wire from your Dash Cam Power Supply Unit (PSU), to this Violet&White Cable, like this:
I did not cut the Violet wire. I just lined it up with the metal jaws of the connector, added the Red Dash -cam wire and then pinched it closed using the Pliers.
6. You then need to 'Ground' the PSU to the Car's metal bodywork, with the black cable from the PSU. I used the crosshead screw that goes into the bracket up inside the light cavity. (This usually holds the SatNav/GPRS aerial. If you don't have SatNav, you will still have the bracket, but may need to find a screw to fit, as the holes will be empty)
i) Losen the screw a few turns,
ii) Strip the end of the black cable approx 20mm,
iii) Wind the stripped cable around the screw or better still, crimp an eyelet on the end of the cable and secure it around the screw.
iv) Re-tighten the screw, ensuring the cable is tightly pinched. 7. Feed the USB Plug down
You now need to feed the mini USB end of the DashCam PSU Cable, from the Interior Light Cavity, against the glass, down through the Rain Sensor housing . Un-clip the Housing by splitting it into two halves, down the middle seem. This is easy to do with bare hands, once the mirror is angled out of the way.
8. Testing the Camera
At this point you can plug your Camera in loosely, turn the ignition on and test it...
If it doesn't work check all of your connections are tight, re-pinch the connector block to ensure you've 'bitten' the cable, or that the Ground is good.
If the Camera does start up - great. Well done ! Now turn the ignition back off and carry on.
9) Refit the Light Cluster- loosely
Once you've got enough cable hanging out at the bottom of the housing area, bundle up any spare USB cable (you cannot cut it !) and then locate the PSU and all spare cable up in the interior light cavity, out of the way. Use some double-sided sticky pads or a cable tie to secure the PSU and avoid possible rattles (There's plenty of room up there)
Inserting the left side first, then lifting the right, re-fit the Interior Light Cluster loosely to get it up out of the way. You may need to remove it again later, in-case of problems, but make sure the light switches are nearest the rear of the car !.
10) Refit the Sensor Housing by aligning up the two halves and clipping together. Again position the mirror best to facilitate this. Once fitted, position your mirror back into the normal driving position.
11) Fitting the Camera Base
Now fit your camera base in the required position, using the sticky pad it should come with. (This is best done with the camera attached so that you dont find the mirror or housing is later in the way when you come to position it !)
12) Final Checks
Sit in the Drivers seat,. Turn the Ignition on again, Check the Camera starts and will sit in the desired position. The camera should go off shortly after the ignition is switched off. Check the mirror is OK for driving and if all is good, give the interior light the final push it needs to clip back in properly.
Tidy up the cable as best as you can between the mirror housing and the camera base, ensuring there's a nice loop to take the pressure off the plug & socket in the base
Thats it - All done !
If anyone has any comments on the above, please let me know and I will edit the original guide.
You can buy additional bases for most Dash-Cams (I use the Mini0803) and I have installed bases in my other cars, so I can easily switch the camera between vehicles on the weekends.
Good luck - I hope this is useful !
- Number 5
Last edited by Number5 on Sun Sep 27, 2020 7:28 pm, edited 8 times in total.
- Taz
- Lifer
- Posts: 19502
- Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2009 9:56 pm
- Location: Saddleworth
Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
nice and simple
- GaryT
- Member
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- Joined: Sun May 18, 2014 9:08 pm
- Location: Plymouth
Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
Great write up, much appreciated, thanks
- cj10jeeper
- Lifer
- Posts: 17846
- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:50 am
- Location: Lichfield, England
Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
Done this a few times on different cars and for different reason to get a 5v dc supply from mini usb and your write up is great
If you choose the right sort of 5v dc feed it will come with options to mount it on one of the sat nav mounting bracket screws. In any event I would not simply stuff everything into the cavity else you risk vibrations/ rattles. As a minimum zip tie it solidly to the loom.
Personal preference but I'd solder an eye onto the -ve lead. Just don't like the idea of trapping wires under screws as the fixing, but hey I'm a perfectionist and learnt the hard way that such connections lead to failure over time.
If you choose the right sort of 5v dc feed it will come with options to mount it on one of the sat nav mounting bracket screws. In any event I would not simply stuff everything into the cavity else you risk vibrations/ rattles. As a minimum zip tie it solidly to the loom.
Personal preference but I'd solder an eye onto the -ve lead. Just don't like the idea of trapping wires under screws as the fixing, but hey I'm a perfectionist and learnt the hard way that such connections lead to failure over time.
Jaguar F-Type 3.0 Supercharged V6 S, Stratus Grey, LSD, Active Exhaust, CF wheels, Performance brakes, Sports seats and mods ongoing
Gone but not forgotten Z4 3.0i SE Roadster ///M front, Red ///M leather seats, Aero sills
Gone but not forgotten Z4 3.0i SE Roadster ///M front, Red ///M leather seats, Aero sills
- Swiftly
- Lifer
- Posts: 8818
- Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 10:43 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
Thats an excellent write up Number 5
I have a 07 E85 and when I wired my dash cam I struggled to find a ground point as you detailed in section 6. My 07 didn't have the the bracket with the screws in the light cavity. The only problem I had was finding the correct metric screw, that actually took longer than it took me to fit the dash cam
What I n oticed was when I pushed the PSU and cable back up into the light cavity as detailed in section 9, I found that it would occasionally rattle. What worked for me was to use a strip of self adhesive velcro tape, simple fix to hold the PSU in situ and no more rattles
I have a 07 E85 and when I wired my dash cam I struggled to find a ground point as you detailed in section 6. My 07 didn't have the the bracket with the screws in the light cavity. The only problem I had was finding the correct metric screw, that actually took longer than it took me to fit the dash cam
What I n oticed was when I pushed the PSU and cable back up into the light cavity as detailed in section 9, I found that it would occasionally rattle. What worked for me was to use a strip of self adhesive velcro tape, simple fix to hold the PSU in situ and no more rattles
- cj10jeeper
- Lifer
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- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:50 am
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Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
I rest my case = QEDSwiftly wrote:What I n oticed was when I pushed the PSU and cable back up into the light cavity as detailed in section 9, I found that it would occasionally rattle. What worked for me was to use a strip of self adhesive velcro tape, simple fix to hold the PSU in situ and no more rattles
Jaguar F-Type 3.0 Supercharged V6 S, Stratus Grey, LSD, Active Exhaust, CF wheels, Performance brakes, Sports seats and mods ongoing
Gone but not forgotten Z4 3.0i SE Roadster ///M front, Red ///M leather seats, Aero sills
Gone but not forgotten Z4 3.0i SE Roadster ///M front, Red ///M leather seats, Aero sills
- Number5
- Lifer
- Posts: 6029
- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2013 7:34 pm
- Location: Bristol M4/M5
Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
Good points, well made.cj10jeeper wrote:I rest my case = QEDSwiftly wrote:What I n oticed was when I pushed the PSU and cable back up into the light cavity as detailed in section 9, I found that it would occasionally rattle. What worked for me was to use a strip of self adhesive velcro tape, simple fix to hold the PSU in situ and no more rattles
1) Regarding the rattles, Ive not personally experienced it, but I can see it could happen.
2) regarding the eyelet for the Negitive cable, I totally agree it would be more professional, but I was trying to aim at the average person, who wont have an array of tools and maybe not want to buy a whole pack of eyes and crimping tools, just for the one job..
I'll edit the OP with your comments though.
Thanks Chaps.
Alpina Roadster #307
Porsche Boxster GTS
Previous Zs
Stratus E86
G29 30i
1x Imola Z4MR
Alpina #019
10x E85 Se/Si Roadsters
2x E89's
Roof Motor Relocations (Bristol)
Porsche Boxster GTS
Previous Zs
Stratus E86
G29 30i
1x Imola Z4MR
Alpina #019
10x E85 Se/Si Roadsters
2x E89's
Roof Motor Relocations (Bristol)
- cj10jeeper
- Lifer
- Posts: 17846
- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:50 am
- Location: Lichfield, England
Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
Good point re folks not wanting to buy bits. I find earth loops/eyes on almost any scrap item I have around. Failing that ebay for a couple of quid for mixed connectors
Example of the converter with mounting point:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QZO-Car-Charg ... 1e7e8d4fef
As I say - great write up
Example of the converter with mounting point:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QZO-Car-Charg ... 1e7e8d4fef
As I say - great write up
Jaguar F-Type 3.0 Supercharged V6 S, Stratus Grey, LSD, Active Exhaust, CF wheels, Performance brakes, Sports seats and mods ongoing
Gone but not forgotten Z4 3.0i SE Roadster ///M front, Red ///M leather seats, Aero sills
Gone but not forgotten Z4 3.0i SE Roadster ///M front, Red ///M leather seats, Aero sills
- AndyZ
- Member
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Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
Thanks number 5. Really useful to an ape like me! If the dash cam has an impact sensor to switch the camera on when someone hits the car when you are not around, how would you wire in the positive feed, as the ignition wouldn't be on?
M4 competition - OOOoohhhhhhhh Yes!
Z4 35is e89 - gone
Jag F-type coupe R (RWD) - gone
Z4mc e86 - gone
M3 e92 - gone
Z4 3ltr e85 roadster - gone
Z4 35is e89 - gone
Jag F-type coupe R (RWD) - gone
Z4mc e86 - gone
M3 e92 - gone
Z4 3ltr e85 roadster - gone
- aquazi
- Lifer
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Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
Great post... When fitting mine I copied CJ and secured my adapter to the natnav screw and soldered the the live feed and not used a scotch lock.....
But virtually the same as your install. Once done you can just forget the camera is even there!
Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk
But virtually the same as your install. Once done you can just forget the camera is even there!
Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk
- Number5
- Lifer
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Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
Some cams may have a built in battery for that 'shock' feature, but the USB supply only has two connections (1 Pos,1 Neg) so you cant really tap in to both a switched live and 24hr live. The only way I can see is that you tap into a permanent live and switch the Camera on/off manually every trip. However, you then run the risk of forgetting and having a possible flat battery a week later...AndyZ wrote:Thanks number 5. Really useful to an ape like me! If the dash cam has an impact sensor to switch the camera on when someone hits the car when you are not around, how would you wire in the positive feed, as the ignition wouldn't be on?
If that concerned about parking protection, you could temporarily disconnect the hard wire and use a cigarette lighter cable, to do this whilst you are in a car park perhaps ?(assuming your lighter socket stays live ). But then remove it when the car is mobile and occupied, reverting back to the fixed supply.
Too much hassle for me ! (Car is garaged at home and parked a million miles from anyone else at Tesco !)
Alpina Roadster #307
Porsche Boxster GTS
Previous Zs
Stratus E86
G29 30i
1x Imola Z4MR
Alpina #019
10x E85 Se/Si Roadsters
2x E89's
Roof Motor Relocations (Bristol)
Porsche Boxster GTS
Previous Zs
Stratus E86
G29 30i
1x Imola Z4MR
Alpina #019
10x E85 Se/Si Roadsters
2x E89's
Roof Motor Relocations (Bristol)
- AndyZ
- Member
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- Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2014 11:28 pm
- Location: Hampshire
Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
true - point taken. You look at the features on offer and try and buy the most specced option, when in fact, less is more!
Need to get one sorted for the English/Welsh meet!
Need to get one sorted for the English/Welsh meet!
M4 competition - OOOoohhhhhhhh Yes!
Z4 35is e89 - gone
Jag F-type coupe R (RWD) - gone
Z4mc e86 - gone
M3 e92 - gone
Z4 3ltr e85 roadster - gone
Z4 35is e89 - gone
Jag F-type coupe R (RWD) - gone
Z4mc e86 - gone
M3 e92 - gone
Z4 3ltr e85 roadster - gone
- Fast3000
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Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
Great post really appreciated
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
So I went to hardwire my dash cam this evening and couldn't find the rain sensor cable. I decided to "hunt" for it by stripping back the trim and A pillars and then the cup holder/vent looking for the Violet&White cable but no luck. Mines a prefacelift with loom parts missing (like the loom for the cruise control). Multimeter confirms no other switched lives up in there
So can anyone confirm where I can find a switch live as close as possible?
So can anyone confirm where I can find a switch live as close as possible?
-
- Senior Member
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Re: How to Wire in a Dash Cam
Bumping my question, hoping to fit tomorrow.