Z4-forum.com

john-e89 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2024 4:08 pm Can you not get a 2nd hand 677 unit…?

B21 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2024 4:12 pm

john-e89 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2024 4:08 pm Can you not get a 2nd hand 677 unit…?

Not many 677s were ever fitted to E89s..so you need a written off E89 with a 677..most breakers in my recent bitter experience haven't a clue about the car and its sub systems..it also has to be DAB'd which I guess most 677 are..and even then cause the VIN is encoded i 4 places on the CIC that still needs to be coded to your VIN to allow maps to be used..so the simple answer is no!

B21 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2024 4:12 pm

john-e89 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2024 4:08 pm Can you not get a 2nd hand 677 unit…?

Not many 677s were ever fitted to E89s..so you need a written off E89 with a 677..most breakers in my recent bitter experience haven't a clue about the car and its sub systems..it also has to be DAB'd which I guess most 677 are..and even then cause the VIN is encoded i 4 places on the CIC that still needs to be coded to your VIN to allow maps to be used..so the simple answer is no!

AnubisZed wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2024 6:15 pm

B21 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2024 4:12 pm

john-e89 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 10, 2024 4:08 pm Can you not get a 2nd hand 677 unit…?

Not many 677s were ever fitted to E89s..so you need a written off E89 with a 677..most breakers in my recent bitter experience haven't a clue about the car and its sub systems..it also has to be DAB'd which I guess most 677 are..and even then cause the VIN is encoded i 4 places on the CIC that still needs to be coded to your VIN to allow maps to be used..so the simple answer is no!

?? What?

609 - CIC
676 - Business sound system, speaker output to amplifier.
677 - Professional sound system with MOST fibre optic sound output.

The headunits are all the same. To change the system from 676 to 677 you simply remove 676 from the VO, and code the car accordingly. You then code 677 to the VO and code accordingly. Once this new code is then written to the CIC unit it then knows not to amplify the sound and, in so doing so, not to output via the wires but to instead to feed out via the fibre optic. It's a standard coding process that takes no more than about 10 minutes at most.
So, in short, it makes no difference where the headunit came from, as long as it has DAB, it'll code just the same.

mkinternet wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 4:12 pm As a matter of interest does anyone know of a person/company here in the UK who repairs these head units. I suspect the pre-out on mine (connects to a 676 amp) is not working correctly as the subs do not fire at all and the sound is awful.

mkinternet wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 4:44 pm Fab and thank you - just down the road as well.

Deepseaskateboard wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2024 12:37 pm I have seen somewhere on here that the MR12Volt box, or some of them at least have an idrive controller connection. They also have video out, and connect to the head unit at some point.

I know this won’t be straight forward, but what would prevent a none iDrive car from having the 12volt box installed, linking it to an idrive controller and oem screen?

This is my ideal set up.

So, it’s carplay without idrive essentially.

"Why not just get the android screen which does all of this?"

I am not convinced on the look, and it would be cool to craft a system with OEM parts, to give the original look.

B21 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 5:17 pm

mkinternet wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 4:44 pm Fab and thank you - just down the road as well.

You can pop in and see how it’s doing

Parcel force says it’s on its way….

mkinternet wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2024 1:10 pm

B21 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 5:17 pm

mkinternet wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2024 4:44 pm Fab and thank you - just down the road as well.

You can pop in and see how it’s doing

Parcel force says it’s on its way….

Did you get it back and is it now working ????

B21 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2024 12:54 pm

Deepseaskateboard wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2024 12:37 pm I have seen somewhere on here that the MR12Volt box, or some of them at least have an idrive controller connection. They also have video out, and connect to the head unit at some point.

I know this won’t be straight forward, but what would prevent a none iDrive car from having the 12volt box installed, linking it to an idrive controller and oem screen?

This is my ideal set up.

So, it’s carplay without idrive essentially.

"Why not just get the android screen which does all of this?"

I am not convinced on the look, and it would be cool to craft a system with OEM parts, to give the original look.

The main CIC box does all the hard work…the screen is completely dumb as is the controller..

So your wish is not easily granted…

I’m about to publish my foray into Android head units ..

Deepseaskateboard wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2024 2:12 pm

B21 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2024 12:54 pm

Deepseaskateboard wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2024 12:37 pm I have seen somewhere on here that the MR12Volt box, or some of them at least have an idrive controller connection. They also have video out, and connect to the head unit at some point.

I know this won’t be straight forward, but what would prevent a none iDrive car from having the 12volt box installed, linking it to an idrive controller and oem screen?

This is my ideal set up.

So, it’s carplay without idrive essentially.

"Why not just get the android screen which does all of this?"

I am not convinced on the look, and it would be cool to craft a system with OEM parts, to give the original look.

The main CIC box does all the hard work…the screen is completely dumb as is the controller..

So your wish is not easily granted…

I’m about to publish my foray into Android head units ..

So the mr12volt wouldn't drive the screen by itself?

It’s almost like I want an android unit without the screen I suppose.