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chanlon1 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2024 9:35 am Thanks wayo11 and enuff.
I’ve heard people in the past saying that sometimes a good blast and hard acceleration can sort out issues.
Not sure if they are having a laugh or not……

I am hoping that will do the trick when Martin starts using it in anger. Fingers crossed…

I think it’s a stuck vanos hub

I think Martin has arranged a 'loan' hub to see if that is the cause

Is that another word for nicking it from another car?

j3nks79 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2024 3:16 pm I think it’s a stuck vanos hub

Do you mean the actual cylindrical unit on the front of the cam? Had no idea they could stick.
How easy is that to change?
I assume I would need to buy the rigging tools?

I wonder then if an oil change and enthusiastic use might free it off?

Wayo11 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2024 7:28 pm I think Martin has arranged a 'loan' hub to see if that is the cause

No it was a DME I was getting and I think that’s a straw grasp tbh

enuff_zed wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2024 7:39 am

Wayo11 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2024 7:28 pm I think Martin has arranged a 'loan' hub to see if that is the cause

No it was a DME I was getting and I think that’s a straw grasp tbh

Oops - shows how much I know!

enuff_zed wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2024 7:38 am

j3nks79 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2024 3:16 pm I think it’s a stuck vanos hub

Do you mean the actual cylindrical unit on the front of the cam? Had no idea they could stick.
How easy is that to change?
I assume I would need to buy the rigging tools?

I wonder then if an oil change and enthusiastic use might free it off?

Yes the hub. M1TCH is having the same issue at the moment. I was round his yesterday. If you have INPA you can see how the vanos inlet and exhaust are sitting. He has intake at -115 degrees.
You have a max variance of - or + 10 degrees for it to be within spec.
He spoke to Matt at ETA this morning and it basically needs re timing.

j3nks79 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2024 11:11 am

enuff_zed wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2024 7:38 am

j3nks79 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2024 3:16 pm I think it’s a stuck vanos hub

Do you mean the actual cylindrical unit on the front of the cam? Had no idea they could stick.
How easy is that to change?
I assume I would need to buy the rigging tools?

I wonder then if an oil change and enthusiastic use might free it off?

Yes the hub. M1TCH is having the same issue at the moment. I was round his yesterday. If you have INPA you can see how the vanos inlet and exhaust are sitting. He has intake at -115 degrees.
You have a max variance of - or + 10 degrees for it to be within spec.
He spoke to Matt at ETA this morning and it basically needs re timing.

OK, Just been out to start it and check live data.
Before starting I had:

Vanos position - Inlet 125.23
Vamos position exhaust -115.29
Vanos adaptation inlet 5.61
Vanos adaptation exhaust 3.36

1. On starting up from cold after ten days sitting, I get the inlet not moving and the exhuast dropping momentarily to around -58, then back up to -115 again.
No fluctuation of idle and no check light.

2. Turn off, leave 30 seconds and start again.
This time exhaust doesn't move, inlet drops to around 75, then increments back up to 111 (accompanied by the higher revving for about a second), then back to 125 again and every thing runs smoothly. No check light.

3. Turn off, wait just a few seconds and start again. This time almost identical to start number 2, except the time to recover the idle back down to normal was fractionally longer and the check light came on.

After every start, regardless of check light, it records the 2A82 Vanos Inlet code.
Resetting this while running makes no discernable difference to sound, revs or live data.

Once running it purrs nicely.

Your thoughts appreciated please.
Could it be a failing vanos unit? If so, is it a DIY job? A brief google shows all kinds of histrionics about timing.

Same symptoms that we had at the weekend.

I think once the hubs are cleaned and timing re set you shouldn’t have any other issues.
It’s hard to say if it will happen again. You’ve clean all the solenoids and check valves. Oil flush and then oil and filter change and it should be good.
Do able at home with the correct timing info and tools.

j3nks79 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2024 12:08 pm Same symptoms that we had at the weekend.

I think once the hubs are cleaned and timing re set you shouldn’t have any other issues.
It’s hard to say if it will happen again. You’ve clean all the solenoids and check valves. Oil flush and then oil and filter change and it should be good.
Do able at home with the correct timing info and tools.

This sounds promising!
So hubs off and clean them out? Petrol?
Being an optimist I am going to change the oil and run it a little bit first. always keen for a cheap fix.

If nothing else, this thread could become useful for others in the future.

Have a look at this
https://youtu.be/bmszP-K727I?feature=shared

j3nks79 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2024 2:13 pm Have a look at this
https://youtu.be/bmszP-K727I?feature=shared

Watched that. He gets there in the end but doesn't exactly instil confidence does he?

Have you actually done this job now?
How is access in the car?

enuff_zed wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2024 2:35 pm

j3nks79 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2024 2:13 pm Have a look at this
https://youtu.be/bmszP-K727I?feature=shared

Watched that. He gets there in the end but doesn't exactly instil confidence does he?

Have you actually done this job now?
How is access in the car?

Yeah he was all over the place but gives you the idea.
I’ve done the S54 vanos but never done a N52 but doesn’t look to difficult and you can do it in situ.
Unfortunately at the moment I’m recovering from having an ileostomy so can’t do any actual mechanical work on cars.