Z4 Top Problem - $20,985 Solution
Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 10:26 am
Ok Bruce, so I need more info now we know the wiring is not damaged ( this is very common and often goes in noticed )
Some questions
1. How much did you have to build up the switch with foam , in mm's ( is the cone that triggers the switch worn or damaged ?)
2. When the roof is stowed in the boot and the boot lid doesn't close, does it close if you press and hold the close button a second time ?
3. As soon as the roof stows in the boot ( you have 5 seconds or so ) if you lift the edge of the bottom roof panel with your hand as if trying to lift it out and then drop it again does the roof lock down in the boot ?
4. When you trick the micro switch with the foam, does the complete roof mechanism then work as it should ? In other words ....Does the roof stow in the boot and the boot lid then close as if everything is ok in one movement ( or if it stops with the boot open does it close if you press and hold the button a second time ? ) If it does, does the boot lid still open from the rear for luggage access ?
There are 4 sensors and 7 micro switches in the assembly .
Micro switches
We can assume that the top section of the roof is working correctly as it latches onto the screen when closing and as you've added foam to the boot micro switch it will latch when it's stowed in the boot, this eliminates 3 micro switches , 1 in the top edge of the windscreen trim and 2 in the latch mechanism.
There are two micro switches one each side of the rear screen section , directly on the lower edge of each side of the rear screen rams ( where the rear screen lowers onto the closed boot lid) , I believe these aren't faulty as apart from the latching issue in the boot your roof otherwise works ok ? These switches are handed left and right side and aren't interchangeable .
The two remaining micro switches are on the boot hinge rams , these trigger the boot lid to close after the roof is stowed in the boot. Now I know your roof isn't locking as it should, but in my experience , I've seen this before and when the boot lid closes it triggers the roof to latch in the stowed position, so the fault could be one of these two micro switches, this is why I am asking about boot opening problems as these switches seem linked to boot opening problems . It's a game of chance with these switches , if you follow my guide in the linked post you can change these easily , it could be either switch. These switches are handed left and right side they aren't interchangeable .
Hall sensors ( these sensors are all the same part, just 4 of them )
There is 1 hall sensor in the boot, it's under a plastic trim panel that the boot partition locks down on to . This must be ok as if it wasn't the roof wouldn't work at all .
There is 1 hall sensor in the rear screen folding panel, it's located in the drivers side ( RHD car ) hydraulic ram casing , but as the rear screen panel appears to be operating as it should , I do not think this is the problem .
There are 2 hall sensors in the boot hydraulic ram , these are both in one ram , drivers side ( RHD car ), now if as I asked when the operation of roof stowage stops, if it then operates fully when you press the button a second time , it could be one of these sensors . You need will need to check the hinges/ram assembly to check which has the sensors in it , as I say it's the drivers side on a RHD car but could be different on a LHD car, but the ram with the sensors will have a lot more wiring cable tied onto it . You will need to remove the ram/hinge from its bolted position following my guide in the linked post, when the ram/hinge is free, with the ram upright with the micro switch end upper most I would try the upper sensor first , but it could be either . A tell tail sign that a sensor is faulty is that they crack around the edges , but you have to look very closely with a magnifying lense to see the cracks, but as you probably won't have to change the plugs on the hall sensors on your car ( unlike older cars ) you can remove the sensors from the rams , they just clip in and inspect them .
[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af10 ... lexhud.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af10 ... okjfk.jpeg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af10 ... efnzjb.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af10 ... oxxdj1.jpg[/IMG]
Cracked sensor
[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af10 ... giaif.jpeg[/IMG]
Again if you can answer the question I have asked , things might be clearer for me trying to solve your issue .
The sensors and switches are not expensive , in fact the most expensive is the one you said has already been changed . With the guide I have previously done you should be able to change these yourself without issue . I have changed all the sensors before, and all the switches except the switches on the rear screen panel, but they don't look difficult .
Let me know how you get on .
Some questions
1. How much did you have to build up the switch with foam , in mm's ( is the cone that triggers the switch worn or damaged ?)
2. When the roof is stowed in the boot and the boot lid doesn't close, does it close if you press and hold the close button a second time ?
3. As soon as the roof stows in the boot ( you have 5 seconds or so ) if you lift the edge of the bottom roof panel with your hand as if trying to lift it out and then drop it again does the roof lock down in the boot ?
4. When you trick the micro switch with the foam, does the complete roof mechanism then work as it should ? In other words ....Does the roof stow in the boot and the boot lid then close as if everything is ok in one movement ( or if it stops with the boot open does it close if you press and hold the button a second time ? ) If it does, does the boot lid still open from the rear for luggage access ?
There are 4 sensors and 7 micro switches in the assembly .
Micro switches
We can assume that the top section of the roof is working correctly as it latches onto the screen when closing and as you've added foam to the boot micro switch it will latch when it's stowed in the boot, this eliminates 3 micro switches , 1 in the top edge of the windscreen trim and 2 in the latch mechanism.
There are two micro switches one each side of the rear screen section , directly on the lower edge of each side of the rear screen rams ( where the rear screen lowers onto the closed boot lid) , I believe these aren't faulty as apart from the latching issue in the boot your roof otherwise works ok ? These switches are handed left and right side and aren't interchangeable .
The two remaining micro switches are on the boot hinge rams , these trigger the boot lid to close after the roof is stowed in the boot. Now I know your roof isn't locking as it should, but in my experience , I've seen this before and when the boot lid closes it triggers the roof to latch in the stowed position, so the fault could be one of these two micro switches, this is why I am asking about boot opening problems as these switches seem linked to boot opening problems . It's a game of chance with these switches , if you follow my guide in the linked post you can change these easily , it could be either switch. These switches are handed left and right side they aren't interchangeable .
Hall sensors ( these sensors are all the same part, just 4 of them )
There is 1 hall sensor in the boot, it's under a plastic trim panel that the boot partition locks down on to . This must be ok as if it wasn't the roof wouldn't work at all .
There is 1 hall sensor in the rear screen folding panel, it's located in the drivers side ( RHD car ) hydraulic ram casing , but as the rear screen panel appears to be operating as it should , I do not think this is the problem .
There are 2 hall sensors in the boot hydraulic ram , these are both in one ram , drivers side ( RHD car ), now if as I asked when the operation of roof stowage stops, if it then operates fully when you press the button a second time , it could be one of these sensors . You need will need to check the hinges/ram assembly to check which has the sensors in it , as I say it's the drivers side on a RHD car but could be different on a LHD car, but the ram with the sensors will have a lot more wiring cable tied onto it . You will need to remove the ram/hinge from its bolted position following my guide in the linked post, when the ram/hinge is free, with the ram upright with the micro switch end upper most I would try the upper sensor first , but it could be either . A tell tail sign that a sensor is faulty is that they crack around the edges , but you have to look very closely with a magnifying lense to see the cracks, but as you probably won't have to change the plugs on the hall sensors on your car ( unlike older cars ) you can remove the sensors from the rams , they just clip in and inspect them .
[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af10 ... lexhud.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af10 ... okjfk.jpeg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af10 ... efnzjb.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af10 ... oxxdj1.jpg[/IMG]
Cracked sensor
[IMG]http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af10 ... giaif.jpeg[/IMG]
Again if you can answer the question I have asked , things might be clearer for me trying to solve your issue .
The sensors and switches are not expensive , in fact the most expensive is the one you said has already been changed . With the guide I have previously done you should be able to change these yourself without issue . I have changed all the sensors before, and all the switches except the switches on the rear screen panel, but they don't look difficult .
Let me know how you get on .