E86 - Engine wont start ….update….now running.

[chanlon1]

The immobiliser does not stop the starter from running though

Really? What does it "immobilise" then?

[chanlon1]

Reading a bit more on all this and I have heard that on a manual, there is some switch under the clutch pedal that needs to be depressed in order to allow the engine to start....need to google this aswell

[enuff_zed]

The immobiliser does not stop the starter from running though

Really? What does it "immobilise" then?

bigwinn and I found this out when we swapped in a new DME. We didn't tell the DME not to talk to the EWS, so when we turned the key the EWS didn't recognise the DME and wouldn't let the car start. The starter turned no problem at all, but the fuel pump didn't run and I assume the DME was not 'allowed' to try to inject fuel to start the car.

[enuff_zed]

Reading a bit more on all this and I have heard that on a manual, there is some switch under the clutch pedal that needs to be depressed in order to allow the engine to start....need to google this aswell

Not that I'm aware of? I know on the auto you have to put your foot on the brake, but in the manuals I usually just lean in the window and turn the key. Got to be worth a try though, but surely you would have always had to do that?

[enuff_zed]

Just replying to someone about something completely different and this cropped up:

Screenshot 2024-04-25 162506.png (53.53 KiB) Viewed 207 times

Worth checking that the safety cut out on the battery hasn't popped.

It suggests you can bypass it to start the car. Worth a look?

[chanlon1]

Just replying to someone about something completely different and this cropped up:
Screenshot 2024-04-25 162506.png

Worth checking that the safety cut out on the battery hasn't popped.

It suggests you can bypass it to start the car. Worth a look?

Interesting…..I’ll add it to my things to look at.
Think the clutch switch thing is a no go as I recall starting the engine when I had the car on axle stands and it was in neutral and I was outside of the car when I turned the key.

[chanlon1]

Took a look at the battery compartment to see if it looked like the pyro fuse was at fault. (excuse the filth of it)
The photos below lead me to believe all is okay.

IMG_0847.jpeg (172.81 KiB) Viewed 167 times

IMG_0848.jpeg (181.54 KiB) Viewed 167 times

I also took at look at Supply module 'A6009'. (Mounted on the front of the main ECU box).
Whilst there was around 10 or so individual fuses inside, none of them had blown.

Going to go and try to bench test the old starter now....

[chanlon1]

okay - so just after testing the old starter motor.
See below video. Looks fairly good to me.
So given the car refused to start with this motor in it, I can concur that the new motor has no affect on things, and there must be some relay/fuse/module/dodgy wire somewhere else.

I should also mention that the car doesnt start with the spare key either.



I thought I read somewhere that if you hook up a battery to the positive/negative terminals in the engine bay, where you would jump start the car, that that may allow you to start it?
Any one heard that?

[enuff_zed]

okay - so just after testing the old starter motor.
See below video. Looks fairly good to me.
So given the car refused to start with this motor in it, I can concur that the new motor has no affect on things, and there must be some relay/fuse/module/dodgy wire somewhere else.

I should also mention that the car doesnt start with the spare key either.



I thought I read somewhere that if you hook up a battery to the positive/negative terminals in the engine bay, where you would jump start the car, that that may allow you to start it?
Any one heard that?

Looking at the wiring diagram I posted that makes sense if it is the supply from the alternator that is the issue. Still relies on the solenoid being actuated via the EWS though

[swanny71]

I’d try cleaning those battery terminals first.

[chanlon1]

Looking at the wiring diagram I posted that makes sense if it is the supply from the alternator that is the issue. Still relies on the solenoid being actuated via the EWS though

Not sure I follow. So I hook up a battery to the terminals in the engine bay, but I still need to hit the solenoid wire on the starter? Or would turning the key do that?
I would have thought it should send a signal to the starter?

[enuff_zed]

Ah I was thinking that you connect to the points under the bonnet and turn the key. If it starts it points to the feed from the alternator being the issue.

[chanlon1]

Ah I was thinking that you connect to the points under the bonnet and turn the key. If it starts it points to the feed from the alternator being the issue.

Thanks for the confirmation.
I’ll attach my spare battery to the engine bay poles tomorrow and see what happens when I turn the key. If it fires up, you may hear loud squealing coming from across the water

[Z4Mariner]

I don't want to interupt the flow here, because it's not likely your issue - Chanlon1, you heard correctly that there's a Hall effect sensor on the clutch for MT cars - at least for LCI cars in the North American market. My car has one. It's solid state, and failure should be infrequent, but miss-alignment, a clutch pedal with too much slop, or connector issues could cause faults. IFAIK failure for this circuit should produce a no-click, no-start.

[chanlon1]

I don't want to interupt the flow here, because it's not likely your issue - Chanlon1, you heard correctly that there's a Hall effect sensor on the clutch for MT cars - at least for LCI cars in the North American market.

No worries. I appreciate the input.
I am 99.9% sure I don’t have such a switch now. Recently I had the car up on axle stands and I am fairly sure on a few occasions I reached in, put her in neutral and started the engine without sitting in it, therefore not putting the clutch in.