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My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
- chapeau
- Member
- Posts: 457
- Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2016 5:14 am
- Location: South Staffordshire
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
I do wish I was capable of this sort of thing. I wouldn't trust myself, or know where to begin ....
E85. 2.5i SE. 2004. Sterling grey, anthracite 107s, black leather heated seats, hardtop, sound gen retrofit, matt black grills, stubby, zhp, cupholders retrofit, roof motor in boot.
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- Newbie
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- Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2017 6:14 pm
- Location: Pickering, North Yorkshire
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
Nice post, will follow it with interest...
Been thinking of ditching the CDV on my Z4 2.0 - I'm tired of the kangaroo like take up when trying to pull away quickly in 1st gear, and the notchy change into 2nd. I believe that removing the CDV cures both of these issues?
I only need to figure out how to get the car far enough up of the ground to get at it, as my trolley jack is too high to get under the car and ramps are useless as the car is too low to drive up onto them
Regards
Eddy
Been thinking of ditching the CDV on my Z4 2.0 - I'm tired of the kangaroo like take up when trying to pull away quickly in 1st gear, and the notchy change into 2nd. I believe that removing the CDV cures both of these issues?
I only need to figure out how to get the car far enough up of the ground to get at it, as my trolley jack is too high to get under the car and ramps are useless as the car is too low to drive up onto them
Regards
Eddy
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- Lifer
- Posts: 4621
- Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:38 pm
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
kicking myself I didn't buy it n then just get you to fix it for almost free! As others have said its in good hands and good luck with it m8
18 Z4s owned to date.
Current: 2.5i Titan silver
Daily driver: 480bhp M140i Shadow edition.
Current: 2.5i Titan silver
Daily driver: 480bhp M140i Shadow edition.
- tomscott
- Lifer
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- Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:26 pm
- Location: Manchester
- Contact:
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
Do love reading a fix up project
- dhobbs
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1621
- Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:33 pm
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
Mine has the dreaded ABS pump codes. Given mine to an independent to fix, I did mention to use ECU testing rather than replace the pump. They say it's quite common.
Keep up the good work. Always good reading a project post, gives me a bit a of enthusiasm to do stuff myself, just replaced my springs and shocks helped by this forum.
Keep up the good work. Always good reading a project post, gives me a bit a of enthusiasm to do stuff myself, just replaced my springs and shocks helped by this forum.
3.0si roadster. Requisite stubby. Sound gen mod. LED numberplate lights. LED boot strip. Interior lights LED too. ZHP gearknob. Daily drive
Motor in boot. Bilstein B8 dampers. New radio, much better sounds
Motor in boot. Bilstein B8 dampers. New radio, much better sounds
- Marlon
- Lifer
- Posts: 10899
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:13 am
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My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
Great thread - really enjoying it, soon there won't be any job you can't do on a Zed. Had to laugh fixing the roof motor on the guys drive before you left
So come on spill the beans Mike - how much did you pay for it?
So come on spill the beans Mike - how much did you pay for it?
Gone: 3.0si 2008 E85
911 997 Carrera S
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My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
Any idea what the marks on the hood are? I have a few that look exactly like that and no idea how to get shot of them.
- Ducklakeview
- Lifer
- Posts: 6362
- Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 4:08 pm
- Location: Merseyside
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
Rubbing marks where the material rubs against itself when folded. I have a couple on the 3.0 too. Dying prob won't get rid, as the actual fibre of the material is changed slightly.scooobydont wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:09 am Any idea what the marks on the hood are? I have a few that look exactly like that and no idea how to get shot of them.
Mike
- Ducklakeview
- Lifer
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- Location: Merseyside
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
CDV removal really has made a massive difference to the drive. Just done a spirited 40 mile round trip to a cash & carry, and it's a different, better car altogether.Eddy Matthews wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:52 am Nice post, will follow it with interest...
Been thinking of ditching the CDV on my Z4 2.0 - I'm tired of the kangaroo like take up when trying to pull away quickly in 1st gear, and the notchy change into 2nd. I believe that removing the CDV cures both of these issues?
I only need to figure out how to get the car far enough up of the ground to get at it, as my trolley jack is too high to get under the car and ramps are useless as the car is too low to drive up onto them
Regards
Eddy
Just use a plank of 1" plywood about 5" wide and 18" long. knock a couple of nails through one end and place that end onto the 2nd rung of your ramps. Car will then go up them. I use these, when I CBA putting stuff on the lift, had dozens of Zeds up on them front rear - £12 from Ebay, called "Ramp Mate's"..
Mike
- Ducklakeview
- Lifer
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- Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 4:08 pm
- Location: Merseyside
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
As it was annoying me last night, I decided to have a quick look at why the driver's door would lock from the remote, but not unlock..
I could hear the central locking motor activating in the door when pressing unlock, so decided (at 11pm) to whip the door card off and take a quick peek.
Door membrane still as it left the factory, so no one had been in there previously. Moved the door catch into the closed position and gave it a try on the remote - NOW it was working.. At this point the door button was hanging down, as it does when the door card is removed. So I held it upright in it's "normal" position and operated the remote again, this time it locked, but DIDN'T unlock.. Hmm... Noticed there was a square rubber bung stuck on the door panel, just near the bottom of the rod with the pin on top, I presume to stop rattling. However, I could see that the bung had moved as it had left a "trail" of adhesive... As such, it was resting against the rod then the lock was in the closed position..
I pulled it off and the rod dropped a touch, into the "fully locked" position, quick tap on the remote and it unlocked perfectly.
What was happening, is that the bung was stopping the rod from reaching the fully locked position, and as such when unlocking, the motor wasn't activating as it was "midway" between it's states, if that makes sense.
So, bung repositioned with new trim tape, after cleaning off old adhesive, and door back together and working perfectly.
I do like a cheap and free fix, one more thing crossed off the list..
Mike
I could hear the central locking motor activating in the door when pressing unlock, so decided (at 11pm) to whip the door card off and take a quick peek.
Door membrane still as it left the factory, so no one had been in there previously. Moved the door catch into the closed position and gave it a try on the remote - NOW it was working.. At this point the door button was hanging down, as it does when the door card is removed. So I held it upright in it's "normal" position and operated the remote again, this time it locked, but DIDN'T unlock.. Hmm... Noticed there was a square rubber bung stuck on the door panel, just near the bottom of the rod with the pin on top, I presume to stop rattling. However, I could see that the bung had moved as it had left a "trail" of adhesive... As such, it was resting against the rod then the lock was in the closed position..
I pulled it off and the rod dropped a touch, into the "fully locked" position, quick tap on the remote and it unlocked perfectly.
What was happening, is that the bung was stopping the rod from reaching the fully locked position, and as such when unlocking, the motor wasn't activating as it was "midway" between it's states, if that makes sense.
So, bung repositioned with new trim tape, after cleaning off old adhesive, and door back together and working perfectly.
I do like a cheap and free fix, one more thing crossed off the list..
Mike
- Ducklakeview
- Lifer
- Posts: 6362
- Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 4:08 pm
- Location: Merseyside
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
I think it's down to the weight, mine is a 3.0 auto, so prob a good couple hundred kilos heavier. Plus, I reckon they have changed the spring/damper rates on the facelift...kis wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:28 am Nice little project. Like Jamie said it's annoying how easy you make it look!!
Interesting comment about it feeling much better than the M54. I thought I've seen posts where you've renewed most parts? Bushes and the like? Why do you think it feels noticeably better?
Look forward to more updates!
It's only the "ride" that feels better, the drivetrain on the M54 is miles better, and as for levels of grip/traction, they are chalk and cheese, esp with mine having the LSD. It has surprised me however, just how easy it is to spin the rears on the 2.0.
Mike
Last edited by Ducklakeview on Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Ducklakeview
- Lifer
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- Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 4:08 pm
- Location: Merseyside
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
Just milling over the options on the 108's now. They aren't the worst I've seem, BUT I want the car to be right, and I think having them split and re-done in OEM colours is the way to go, and also removes potential "haggling room" once I decide to sell it. I always think a "fully" sorted car, in need of nothing and backed up with lots of history, and even a page like this will sell well.enzed4 wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:43 am Something to get your teeth into, Mike . Looking good so far. I don't see any plans for those notoriously difficult to refurb split rims. What are you hoping to do with them - refurb or replace?
Edit - also, have never seen half-leather M Sport seats, didn't know they were an option.
I'll have the tyres removed and split them myself before getting them dipped/repaired and powdercoated.
Mike
- blackabbot
- Member
- Posts: 413
- Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2017 5:29 am
- Location: North Wales
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
Great thread Mike,
2008, E85 2.0i sport, Titan Silver, Hardtop, ZHP Gear Knob, Chrome Exhaust Tip , Hydro Graphic Carbon Interior, DLV roof motor relocation and CDV delete and a Whippy
- Ducklakeview
- Lifer
- Posts: 6362
- Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 4:08 pm
- Location: Merseyside
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
One thing I have decided after driving this 2.0, is that my 3.0 IS suffering from the "sticky steering" issue... Never really bothered me before, just thought that "they were all like that" BUT after driving the 2.0 for a few days, the steering on it is much smoother and less "fidgety" than the 3.0..
So, one more job to do on mine, and I'll be taking the "adjusting the motor" route, rather than the "drill and lube" one..
Mike
So, one more job to do on mine, and I'll be taking the "adjusting the motor" route, rather than the "drill and lube" one..
Mike
- Smartbear
- Lifer
- Posts: 13685
- Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:54 pm
- Location: a barn in Somerset
My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
I think the facelift cars had revised steering, you don’t here of so many cases of sticky steering happening to themDucklakeview wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:38 pm One thing I have decided after driving this 2.0, is that my 3.0 IS suffering from the "sticky steering" issue... Never really bothered me before, just thought that "they were all like that" BUT after driving the 2.0 for a few days, the steering on it is much smoother and less "fidgety" than the 3.0..
So, one more job to do on mine, and I'll be taking the "adjusting the motor" route, rather than the "drill and lube" one..
Mike
Rob
e89 Sdrive 20i, plenty of mumbo & good economy-the thinking bears z4
e89 Sdrive 30i, this ones busted, pass me another...
e85 3.0si sold