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Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
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- Lifer
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Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
Chezsherman told me he had checked his roof drains and I was keen to see how he'd done this.
Cherrym said we could meet at his garage and check all three Zeds - great idea!
I took a few photos and it was a fairly straightforward task so I thought I'd post them up to encourage others to have a go.
Considering the cost of a roof motor replacement it would be a useful check. It's certainly good to know all of our Zeds are fine!
There are drains on both sides of the Zed and you will need to remove the rear wheel first so that you can remove this panel
It's held on with a 10mm bolt top centre and two star drive bolts either side
TAKE NOTE - there is another 8mm bolt beneath the sill that needs removing before the panel can come away. If you look under the sill you will see a plastic retaining section (see next photo - poor image) IT IS THE 8mm BOLT IN THE TOP RIGHT CORNER OF THE PHOTO BELOW THAT NEEDS REMOVING. It's a bit awkward but very short and doesn't take many turns to remove.
When you have removed the three fasteners at the top and the one small bolt underneath you will be able to remove the panel.
The panel has been removed in this next photo and where the torch is shining is where you will find the small bolt. I found I had to get my head right underneath the sill to see it clearly (SO MAKE CERTAIN THE ZED IS SECURE)
It's just up and slightly forward from this point that you'll find this cap (see next photo) fitted to the end of the drain channel
It fits into a groove all the way around the end of the drain channel and I found it a bit awkward to remove as it was tight but it does come off.
On Craig's Zed this part (see next photo) also came away from the end of the drain channel
This just pushes up into the end of the channel and it makes fitting the caps easier as they can be fitted first onto this and then this pushed securely into the end of the drain channel.
Mike had a length of wire with a brush on each end which we used to push up the drain channels and check they were clear (a useful piece of kit - it's a flexible 'snake' cleaning brush for a trumpet or cornet - see on ebay - that he'd previously bought for use on an MX5). Craig had used a piece of coat hanger wire previously. The drivers side should push up through the top of the channel into the roof storage area. The passenger side drain channel wont push all the way through as the roof motor is in the way - (go steady you don't want to damage the motor or the watertight seal on facelift motors).
Once you've checked that the channels are clear (I've heard some owners then pour water in at the top to check this - we didn't bother) you can replace the panel - fit it at the bottom first - the small bolt can be a bit awkward but not that difficult) then the three fasteners at the top. Check all is secure and then replace the wheel - job done.
We all left the drain covers off - they are quite difficult to refit but the main reason was that we felt they would just retain any obstructions and cause water not to flow freely (despite the thin open slits)
Not a very technical 'How to' but I hope it encourages some to have a go - use in conjunction with other guides if necessary.
It's good to know that all three Zeds are ok and we'll probably have another checking session some time in the future.
Thanks Craig and thanks Mike
Cherrym said we could meet at his garage and check all three Zeds - great idea!
I took a few photos and it was a fairly straightforward task so I thought I'd post them up to encourage others to have a go.
Considering the cost of a roof motor replacement it would be a useful check. It's certainly good to know all of our Zeds are fine!
There are drains on both sides of the Zed and you will need to remove the rear wheel first so that you can remove this panel
It's held on with a 10mm bolt top centre and two star drive bolts either side
TAKE NOTE - there is another 8mm bolt beneath the sill that needs removing before the panel can come away. If you look under the sill you will see a plastic retaining section (see next photo - poor image) IT IS THE 8mm BOLT IN THE TOP RIGHT CORNER OF THE PHOTO BELOW THAT NEEDS REMOVING. It's a bit awkward but very short and doesn't take many turns to remove.
When you have removed the three fasteners at the top and the one small bolt underneath you will be able to remove the panel.
The panel has been removed in this next photo and where the torch is shining is where you will find the small bolt. I found I had to get my head right underneath the sill to see it clearly (SO MAKE CERTAIN THE ZED IS SECURE)
It's just up and slightly forward from this point that you'll find this cap (see next photo) fitted to the end of the drain channel
It fits into a groove all the way around the end of the drain channel and I found it a bit awkward to remove as it was tight but it does come off.
On Craig's Zed this part (see next photo) also came away from the end of the drain channel
This just pushes up into the end of the channel and it makes fitting the caps easier as they can be fitted first onto this and then this pushed securely into the end of the drain channel.
Mike had a length of wire with a brush on each end which we used to push up the drain channels and check they were clear (a useful piece of kit - it's a flexible 'snake' cleaning brush for a trumpet or cornet - see on ebay - that he'd previously bought for use on an MX5). Craig had used a piece of coat hanger wire previously. The drivers side should push up through the top of the channel into the roof storage area. The passenger side drain channel wont push all the way through as the roof motor is in the way - (go steady you don't want to damage the motor or the watertight seal on facelift motors).
Once you've checked that the channels are clear (I've heard some owners then pour water in at the top to check this - we didn't bother) you can replace the panel - fit it at the bottom first - the small bolt can be a bit awkward but not that difficult) then the three fasteners at the top. Check all is secure and then replace the wheel - job done.
We all left the drain covers off - they are quite difficult to refit but the main reason was that we felt they would just retain any obstructions and cause water not to flow freely (despite the thin open slits)
Not a very technical 'How to' but I hope it encourages some to have a go - use in conjunction with other guides if necessary.
It's good to know that all three Zeds are ok and we'll probably have another checking session some time in the future.
Thanks Craig and thanks Mike
Now Porsche flat 6 experience, 986S & 981S.
2006 Z4MR Imola Red/Imola Red, 2008 3.0si Sport Stratus Grey/Piano black, 2006 2.0I Sport Silver Grey Facelift. MX5, TVR Chimaera, many motorbikes.
2006 Z4MR Imola Red/Imola Red, 2008 3.0si Sport Stratus Grey/Piano black, 2006 2.0I Sport Silver Grey Facelift. MX5, TVR Chimaera, many motorbikes.
- Smartbear
- Lifer
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
It's a good idea to check these regularly, it is possible to do without removing any wheels or panels with a bit of manual dexterity
Regards
Regards
e89 Sdrive 20i, plenty of mumbo & good economy-the thinking bears z4
e89 Sdrive 30i, this ones busted, pass me another...
e85 3.0si sold
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- Lifer
- Posts: 5597
- Joined: Wed May 02, 2012 5:48 pm
- Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
Just been talking about that with Mike - think once you've done it and know where the drain channel is then you can get in without removing the panel and wheels for future checks.
Now Porsche flat 6 experience, 986S & 981S.
2006 Z4MR Imola Red/Imola Red, 2008 3.0si Sport Stratus Grey/Piano black, 2006 2.0I Sport Silver Grey Facelift. MX5, TVR Chimaera, many motorbikes.
2006 Z4MR Imola Red/Imola Red, 2008 3.0si Sport Stratus Grey/Piano black, 2006 2.0I Sport Silver Grey Facelift. MX5, TVR Chimaera, many motorbikes.
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
So if I feed a curtain wire up the hole from the wheel arch will it easily find the roof motor bowl hole or should I push the wire up and down a few times ?
2005 Z4 3.0 Black, Zhp gear knob.
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
I've just brought eBay item 171733491877
Worth a go. Thanks for all the advice
Worth a go. Thanks for all the advice
2005 Z4 3.0 Black, Zhp gear knob.
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
@Rob: Brilliant solution!
(Why didn't I think of that..... )
(Why didn't I think of that..... )
- andysat
- Lifer
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
Yeah -I agree I left mine off.
Gone but not forgotten.
New ride silver e93.
- RickRob
- Lifer
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
Thanks for the post.
I am now inspired to do mine when I have a week's holiday the week after next. Should be enough time, even for me!
I am now inspired to do mine when I have a week's holiday the week after next. Should be enough time, even for me!
///M Roadster. 2007 Black/Black. Rear spoiler, whippy aerial, mud flaps and gimp-style wind deflector!
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
Forgive my ignorance folks ,but are there similar drain holes on the E89 , if yes where are they,
2013 E89 Z4 2.0L M Spec titanium silver,black leather,comfort pack, 19" 326 alloys ,I love this car.
- MrPT
- Lifer
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
Good write up.
I was pretty shocked how much water flowed through after clearing mine. Anything substantially less than this and there's probably some kind of blockage.
Yes. So much easier than putting the rubber thing back on!paulgs1000 wrote: On Craig's Zed this part (see next photo) also came away from the end of the drain channel
...
This just pushes up into the end of the channel and it makes fitting the caps easier as they can be fitted first onto this and then this pushed securely into the end of the drain channel.
Made a vid a while ago of just how much water goes through when the drains are clear. Might be handy as a reference for others:Once you've checked that the channels are clear (I've heard some owners then pour water in at the top to check this...
I was pretty shocked how much water flowed through after clearing mine. Anything substantially less than this and there's probably some kind of blockage.
I ran with mine off for a while but I swear it increased noise from the n/s rear wheel arch. Might have been imaging things though.We all left the drain covers off - they are quite difficult to refit but the main reason was that we felt they would just retain any obstructions and cause water not to flow freely (despite the thin open slits)
2008 Z4MC: heavy wheels | crap suspension | skittish rear end | wobbly engine | not enough induction noise | underwhelming turn in | inconsistent braking | lardy battery | chubby steering wheel
2006 Z4 2.5si: gone
2006 Z4 2.5si: gone
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
I took mine off the other week and the road noise has definitely, noticeably increased on my daily commute down the motorway.MrPT wrote: I ran with mine off for a while but I swear it increased noise from the n/s rear wheel arch. Might have been imaging things though.
Does anyone know what part number they are as I binned them?
Z4R 3.0si Sport auto. So far: 19" CSLs, Eibachs, MM exhaust tips, de-badged rear, stubby, black grilles, spacers, aux cable, interior LEDs, LED boot strip......
- cj10jeeper
- Lifer
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
The bungs are there to reduce road noise and they do make a difference. Leaving them out creates 2 very neat sound tubes from the noisy tyre/road area direct into the cabin. Sure the Z4 is hardly silent but all adds up.
Jaguar F-Type 3.0 Supercharged V6 S, Stratus Grey, LSD, Active Exhaust, CF wheels, Performance brakes, Sports seats and mods ongoing
Gone but not forgotten Z4 3.0i SE Roadster ///M front, Red ///M leather seats, Aero sills
Gone but not forgotten Z4 3.0i SE Roadster ///M front, Red ///M leather seats, Aero sills
- Taz
- Lifer
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
correct, when i was looking at a car for wingman i checked all the cars without removing wheels, first poke yer finger through the bung to see if the are blocked then pour water down and confirm it pours out without any issuespaulgs1000 wrote:Just been talking about that with Mike - think once you've done it and know where the drain channel is then you can get in without removing the panel and wheels for future checks.
- Swiftly
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
The part you need is number 18 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=54_0315STUBOY2UK wrote:
I took mine off the other week and the road noise has definitely, noticeably increased on my daily commute down the motorway.
Does anyone know what part number they are as I binned them?
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Re: Photos - checking drains instead of going on a run
Removing the rubber bungs does increase road noise slightly, it was done when I had my roof motor replaced on my last Z. It's one of the BMW recommended actions when replacing the roof motor. As is drilling the drain holes slightly larger at the top.
Paul will never notice though because his roof is almost permanently down
Paul will never notice though because his roof is almost permanently down
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