Rod bearing replacement - UPDATE

D4dawg · Post by **D4dawg** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 11:50 am

Great write up
And not to come across as arrogant but let's face it £950 or so isn't bad for 70k of use in a great machine
Put £135 away per 10k of use n tada;)

Yorkie Z · Post by **Yorkie Z** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 2:36 pm

D4dawg wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2017 11:50 am Great write up
And not to come across as arrogant but let's face it £950 or so isn't bad for 70k of use in a great machine
Put £135 away per 10k of use n tada;)

Yeah I was kinda thinking the same. Not a bad price for peace of mind.

Gazc · Post by **Gazc** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 3:09 pm

How long did they have your car to do this.

Viren · Post by **Viren** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 3:59 pm

Gazc wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2017 3:09 pm How long did they have your car to do this.

It takes a day to do although they had my car for a couple days.

D4dawg · Post by **D4dawg** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:14 pm

Yorkie Z wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2017 2:36 pm
D4dawg wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2017 11:50 am Great write up
And not to come across as arrogant but let's face it £950 or so isn't bad for 70k of use in a great machine
Put £135 away per 10k of use n tada;)
Yeah I was kinda thinking the same. Not a bad price for peace of mind.

Haha I do it with my tax bill so can do it for car
As it's alot of money if told need to do it there and then
But if know thanks to guys on here it's a 70k thing
You factor it all in to running costs and let's face it £135 per 10k of awesome sounding and grin congering driving I'm more than happy to pay

mr wilks · Post by **mr wilks** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 5:50 pm

Viren wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2017 10:55 am
GuidoK wrote: ↑Tue Apr 04, 2017 11:39 pm Is it my cross eyed vision or is one of the motor mount far more compressed than the other one?

Mangozac wrote: ↑Tue Apr 04, 2017 10:36 pm I always thought that if you had that much copper colour showing they were beyond the point of "not too bad"?
The copper cladding is technically a part of the wear surface. It is there for having also good wear/running properties. The white metal top coat is an initial wear layer.
For instance, these are rodbearings from (I think) a Ford:

Some copper is showing. But as these are rodbearings after 195k miles (thats what the guy said/wrote) theyre not too bad and probably will go on for 100k miles (or more).

But the s54 is an engine with a very well documented history of rodbearing wear and some catastrophic failures (probably mostly track related or high speed autobahn cruises) that you dont want to take any risks with it. That puts it in a different perspective. And maybe that guy has seen much worse, that also sets your expectations
Both mounts compressed the same, it's just the angle their sitting at that's gives the impression one is more compressed then the other.

It covered 39k before you got hold of it though so you have no way of knowing how it was treated until then

Viren · Post by **Viren** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 6:16 pm

mr wilks wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2017 5:50 pm
Viren wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2017 10:55 am
GuidoK wrote: ↑Tue Apr 04, 2017 11:39 pm Is it my cross eyed vision or is one of the motor mount far more compressed than the other one?

The copper cladding is technically a part of the wear surface. It is there for having also good wear/running properties. The white metal top coat is an initial wear layer.
For instance, these are rodbearings from (I think) a Ford:

Some copper is showing. But as these are rodbearings after 195k miles (thats what the guy said/wrote) theyre not too bad and probably will go on for 100k miles (or more).

But the s54 is an engine with a very well documented history of rodbearing wear and some catastrophic failures (probably mostly track related or high speed autobahn cruises) that you dont want to take any risks with it. That puts it in a different perspective. And maybe that guy has seen much worse, that also sets your expectations
Both mounts compressed the same, it's just the angle their sitting at that's gives the impression one is more compressed then the other.
It covered 39k before you got hold of it though so you have no way of knowing how it was treated until then

Although true I did investigate the history (which was good) and it had the original front tyres and brakes so couldn't have had that hard a life. But yea your right you never know. I would have thought if it had been ragged from cold the bearings would show signs of scars or deeper scratches, however the wear was nice and even.

mr wilks · Post by **mr wilks** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 6:20 pm

Viren wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2017 6:16 pm
mr wilks wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2017 5:50 pm
Viren wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2017 10:55 am

Both mounts compressed the same, it's just the angle their sitting at that's gives the impression one is more compressed then the other.
It covered 39k before you got hold of it though so you have no way of knowing how it was treated until then
Although true I did investigate the history (which was good) and it had the original front tyres and brakes so couldn't have had that hard a life. But yea your right you never know. I would have thought if it had been ragged from cold the bearings would show signs of scars or deeper scratches, however the wear was nice and even.

Having the original front tyres & front discs doesn't really confirm a well kept car

We all take a gamble with a used car especially high performance ones but at least you have removed a potential big issue by having the shells replaced so that can only be good for you going forward with the car

Viren · Post by **Viren** » Sat Apr 08, 2017 10:33 pm

Those of you who have had your bearings replaced, what has been you "break in" procedure. Seems to be mixed school of thought. Some say no break in is required as there is no contact. Some say more than 1k of break in. Interested to hear views, I'm thinking keep it under 3-4k for 500 miles. Change oil at 1k. But that's just a complete guess based on what I've read so far.

hopz121 · Post by **hopz121** » Sat Apr 08, 2017 10:51 pm

I was going to do the keep it below 4000 rpm for 1000 miles then drop the oil but I honestly don't know what is right or wrong if I am honest.

I look forward to the responses

FD3S · Post by **FD3S** » Sun Apr 09, 2017 12:22 am

Viren wrote: ↑Sat Apr 08, 2017 10:33 pm Those of you who have had your bearings replaced, what has been you "break in" procedure. Seems to be mixed school of thought. Some say no break in is required as there is no contact. Some say more than 1k of break in. Interested to hear views, I'm thinking keep it under 3-4k for 500 miles. Change oil at 1k. But that's just a complete guess based on what I've read so far.

My indie told me 500km under 3.5k.

No change of oil after that. I do not see the point to change the oil again after the rod bearing change.

Z4M-2006 · Post by **Z4M-2006** » Sun Apr 09, 2017 6:42 am

You can't change the oil often enough on an S54

For the price it costs to do it , then why not..?

There will certainly be contamination of the oil as the new bearings bed in..

TomK · Post by **TomK** » Sun Apr 09, 2017 9:03 am

Yes I was told to drop the oil also after 1K or so, and not to go too crazy for the first few hundred miles.

Viren · Post by **Viren** » Sun Apr 09, 2017 10:30 am

Sounds good, so keep it nice and easy for 4-500 miles then back to opening the taps. It's so frustrating driving this thing under 3.5k. I'm trying to rack up those miles quickly. Was out yesterday on the A1 doing this and had someone in same car/colour pull up alongside. My right foot wanted to twitch so much!

zomby · Post by **zomby** » Sun Apr 09, 2017 7:16 pm

When I had my bottom end done I was also told to keep it under 4k for the first 500 miles, at which point I took it back to the garage for another oil change. They said it was more precautionary than anything, but after having all that work done it can't hurt to be prudent!

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