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Monkeydonkeyratmagic wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:17 am Quick update before my scanner comes tomorrow.

Abs is working on all wheels. Took a while but I got it to work on all 4 wheels several times. (Scabby bit of road covered in man holes, wet, stamp brake feel results) should be interesting.

Did you get the battery checked? Fact that the abs is working but still errors makes it seem that it is the same issue I had on my 2.5 with a dodgy battery

Monkeydonkeyratmagic wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:17 am Quick update before my scanner comes tomorrow.

Abs is working on all wheels. Took a while but I got it to work on all 4 wheels several times. (Scabby bit of road covered in man holes, wet, stamp brake feel results) should be interesting.

If it's working intermittently, and the codes I quoted are stored as "historic" whilst its working, then it's the brushes seizing in their carriers. Very common in this abs module, but easily fixed, permanently.

Mike

85genius wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:05 pm

Monkeydonkeyratmagic wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:17 am Quick update before my scanner comes tomorrow.

Abs is working on all wheels. Took a while but I got it to work on all 4 wheels several times. (Scabby bit of road covered in man holes, wet, stamp brake feel results) should be interesting.

Did you get the battery checked? Fact that the abs is working but still errors makes it seem that it is the same issue I had on my 2.5 with a dodgy battery

Not yet. The battery looks oem. Which would probably be a record for a 13yr old motor. It's bmw branded anyway. Come to think of it the lights came on about a few mins after both heated seats were put on max, lights were turned on, heater on max, just put roof down. Will give it a check. Only looked at it for about 10s when I bought it. Don't have a multimeter though. Any known methods for checking it?

Ducklakeview wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:12 pm

Monkeydonkeyratmagic wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:17 am Quick update before my scanner comes tomorrow.

Abs is working on all wheels. Took a while but I got it to work on all 4 wheels several times. (Scabby bit of road covered in man holes, wet, stamp brake feel results) should be interesting.

If it's working intermittently, and the codes I quoted are stored as "historic" whilst its working, then it's the brushes seizing in their carriers. Very common in this abs module, but easily fixed, permanently.

Mike

Sure. Once I've got the codes Mike I'll give you a call if that's OK to discuss. It's over 122k now and most likely plain knackered like a lot of ancillaries on it.

Monkeydonkeyratmagic wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2017 2:08 pm

85genius wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:05 pm

Monkeydonkeyratmagic wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:17 am Quick update before my scanner comes tomorrow.

Abs is working on all wheels. Took a while but I got it to work on all 4 wheels several times. (Scabby bit of road covered in man holes, wet, stamp brake feel results) should be interesting.

Did you get the battery checked? Fact that the abs is working but still errors makes it seem that it is the same issue I had on my 2.5 with a dodgy battery

Not yet. The battery looks oem. Which would probably be a record for a 13yr old motor. It's bmw branded anyway. Come to think of it the lights came on about a few mins after both heated seats were put on max, lights were turned on, heater on max, just put roof down. Will give it a check. Only looked at it for about 10s when I bought it. Don't have a multimeter though. Any known methods for checking it?

Just pop into any Quickfit, ATS, Halfords, Wilko motorsave, f1autocentres etc etc.... Pretty much any tyre centre or motorparts store and most garages will do a free battery check for you literally takes 30 seconds...

Or if you have one of the CTek or LIDL/ ALDI rebranded trickle chargers with the screen you can plug that in for an hour and watch what the voltage goes up to, if it doesn't get over 12v then you know it's is fubar

Mine was the original battery in a 2003 2.5i when I had the similar issues to you was back in 2015 so battery must have been 12 years old!

You could be lucky- when i used my z as a daily (up to 8 years old) I never had to replace the battery then when it became a sun and fun car after a few years without a battery conditioner the car threw up some odd problems all resolved with a new battery at 12 years old. This may be worth a try as 85genius suggests as it may solve the issue and at least will prevent any future issues.

Pot hole last night. Eaten a shock or bottom arm now. Any bump over 10mph sounds like it's bouncing on metal. Fml.

Monkeydonkeyratmagic wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:44 am Pot hole last night. Eaten a shock or bottom arm now. Any bump over 10mph sounds like it's bouncing on metal. Fml.

Ouch!

Did the code reader arrive?

Regarding batteries, they can and do last.. Depends on the usage. Mine @ 65k is still on the original battery, and last time I checked, it was still at 88% SOH on the tester (state of health) so I have no worries about it being 14 years old at the moment.

Mike

My original battery lasted over 100,00p miles, and was only replaced due to a dodgy digital alternator overcharging it.

Mine was a daily driver, but it did get occasionally get left for weeks at a time when I was working abroad.

Ducklakeview wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2017 12:13 pm

Monkeydonkeyratmagic wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:44 am Pot hole last night. Eaten a shock or bottom arm now. Any bump over 10mph sounds like it's bouncing on metal. Fml.

Regarding batteries, they can and do last.. Depends on the usage. Mine @ 65k is still on the original battery, and last time I checked, it was still at 88% SOH on the tester (state of health) so I have no worries about it being 14 years old at the moment.

Mike

Yeah mine at 12YO was working perfectly until the Mrs decided to run the heaters lights and stereo without the engine on and killed it

Coder has arrived but won't get to use it until later tonight. Using the "hidden menu" voltage on the battery seems to be 11.9 after running on full beam for a few mins to remove residual power. So it's an option at least. I see there is an option to "reset all defect codes" any idea what this does?

Monkeydonkeyratmagic wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2017 2:38 pm Coder has arrived but won't get to use it until later tonight. Using the "hidden menu" voltage on the battery seems to be 11.9 after running on full beam for a few mins to remove residual power. So it's an option at least. I see there is an option to "reset all defect codes" any idea what this does?

DON'T use that option until you've read and made a note of the codes. THEN use it and "see what comes back"

Mike

Monkeydonkeyratmagic wrote: ↑Wed Nov 22, 2017 2:38 pm voltage on the battery seems to be 11.9

Sounds f***ed then should be at or around 14, I'm guessing a new battery will fix your woes.

Like I said the car goes a bit mental when the battery drops below a certain level so I'd be cautious in trusting any of the stored fault codes

Is the 11.9v with the engine running, or with it off and main beam on for a few minutes to remove surface charge? If the latter it's acceptable.

Mike

So these are the only codes I can pull off the car.

Interesting the airbag light is due to low voltage.