Not joined yet? Register for free and enjoy features such as alerts, private messaging and viewing latest posts and topics.

Satnav and intravee Retrofit

Post Reply
User avatar
jamiecarpenter
Member
Member
Posts: 310
Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 10:11 am
Location: Coventry

Satnav and intravee Retrofit

Post by jamiecarpenter » Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:45 pm

Satnav and intravee retrofit.

Equipment required

Loom
Flip up screen
Professional Radio
DVD Navigation player
Intravee
Alpine K420
Template
Drills
Dremmel, with cutting and sanding tools.
Levers
Screwdrivers with various heads including Torque
Socket set
Vac
Cloths
BMW Instructions

Step 1.
Remove clips with screw driver going in from the bottom of the discs both sides centre of the console and remove screws. Then lever out cubby hole and passenger speaker grill using levers or screwdrivers.
Image
Then on Passenger side move seats back and down fully and remove another disc and screw and then unclip the knee pad and remove screw. This is particularly awkward. Go in from the bottom with a wedge or screwdriver otherwise you’ll damaged the trim like I did.
Image
Step 2
Pull both seats forward and put roof down to gain maximum access to centre console before disconnecting the battery and remove the screws holding down the carpet in the boot.
Step 3
Remove Centre Console Lid. First remove 2 small screws circled. To remove lid you will then need to angle it up slightly and give it a tug. It will come out but you need to be careful not to break the hinge. Then you will need to slide out the piece of plastic circled. This will reveal another two screws, remove these also. I then parcel taped the console to the trim just to get it out of the way, as you can’t disconnect the Bluetooth cable if you have it.
Image
Step 4
Remove 2 rubber screws under switch (circled). Once this is done carefully lever up from the switch (the part arrowed) towards the top, you will need to lift the hood up slightly too fully remove the trim.
Image
Step 5
Providing all has gone well you should be left with this.
Image
Now remove all the remaining screws. The two circled at the bottom you should have already removed. Next disconnect the little wire under where the cubby hole was. Then unlatch the cord (circled). Next should be another 2 screws further up (circled). Then 2 really big screws at the top of the Console (circled). Next carefully pull up the Console from the base and it will begin to unclip. As you work you way up disconnect any cables attached to it such as the light. Once it’s all unclipped twist and pushes through the lid then stick it back onto the trim.
Step 6
Remove the air vents above the radio. This is an utter pain. To do this you need piece of string, a long thin screwdriver, masking tape credit card about an hour and a lot of patience. It is made easier if you have moved the seat as high and as far forward as possible. Firstly put masking tape over the top of the two fins of the vents (marked in Blue) so you don’t scratch them. Then push some string around the back of the vents starting at the top working around all the edges then tie it in the middle. Then put the screwdrivers in the vents where arrowed. You need to push them into the holes. Begin on one side push the screwdriver up then with the other hand pull the string work on one side then when it is beginning to come pop out, put in a credit card and start on the other side. After a little while it should come out.
Image
Step 7.
Remove the radio by unscrewing the two screws on the top of it. Then just slide out the radio and unclip the loom at the back.
Step 8
Connect all the parts for the satnav. Firstly connect the screen and Proffesional radio to the looms. Also connect the 2 wires on the loom to the back of the block on the harness that will attach to the back of the radio. You may need to buy the pin block circled for this as mine was missing. The radio and screen don’t have to be in situ at this stage.
Image
Step 9
Then work the loom towards the centre console it does not have to be under the trim panelling at this point.
Image
Plug in the DVD Nav and then work the loom around to the back of the passenger seat into the speaker hole. Remove 3 screws to give some leverage on the trim ( circled below).
Image
Unclip the two connectors currently there and connect the loom to them.
Image
Lastly ground the earth cable which is visible under the carpet in the boot.
Image
Step 10
Reconnect the battery and see if all is working. If it does the screen should flip up, and you should have sound and visual. If all is working disconnect the battery and disassemble all the parts.
Step 11
Cutting Hole in Dash. I bought the template cost about a quid thought it would be more accurate than making my own. I decided to cut out the inner about a cm away from the actual line. This was a mistake! I would advice that you make your own line a couple of mm away from the proposed line so you have got a little room for error. It was a mistake as all I did was shave mm after mm hour after hour to get the screen to fit. Just ensure you centre the template accurately by the centre line and by taping it on with masking tape. I marked on two lines arrowed where the screws would hold the screen down for added accuracy. Ensure the edge of the paper is butted up against the dash too. If this has all been done the template should be true.
Image
Step 12
Cut the hole using a sharp knife through the plastic top and sponge underneath. Then scrape the remainder off. I then filled the hole where the vents were with damp cloths. This stops any dust and bit falling through the hole you’re making, plus it will stop any hot sinders from marking anything. Then use the remaining part of the template to mark out the 3 prongs at the back of the hole. I then used a dremmel with a flexi cord to cut the hole. First using a cutting disc then a sanding disc to tidy up the edges. Allow a complete afternoon for this. Cutting the hole was easy but sanding the edges down to get the screen to fit took hours and hours. When the screen does fit remove the template and put masking tape around the hole and drop in the screen. Push on the two clips where the front of the screen screws in (circled). Mark the holes on the prongs at the rear. Then draw round the screen and remove the screen. Drill the 3 holes at the back and push on the 3 clips (circled). Next you will be left with an outline on the masking tape and very carefully cut any remaining plastic and foam within the marked line. This will help the screen to sit flush to the dash top. If you don’t it sits 2 or 3 mm above the dash board.
Image
Step 13
If you’re happy with the hole. Vac out any remaining bits and dust down, you’ll find bits absolutely everywhere.
Step 14
Work the loom up the back of the dash ensuring there is enough to reach the radio and screen. Then push the loom up over the where the pad is and also above the two screws further along the console. Follow the pics above on routing the loom arrowed in red.
Image
Step 15
Connect the nav unit to the loom and push in the unit so it locks into place. Connect the remaining plugs and lastly ground the earth cable. I found the loom just long enough. I may not have placed the loom exactly where it should be but I did try a few different routes and found this to be the only one that reached the earth and the plugs behind the passenger seat.

Step 16 Intravee
Remove bottom storage box from centre console and drill two large holes so the wires can be fed through. Next push the box back into place.
Image
Step 17
Remove your DSP if you have one as this makes it easier to route the cabling for the Alpine. Next either Velcro or screw in the Alpine unit and connect the two cables which then lead into the back of the storage box. I velcroed the alpine unit to the right of the DSP unit.
Image
Step 18
Feed through the cables into the storage box and connect the Intravee. This is an absoloute pain. The box is so small and the wiring is so short that you can not simply stick your hand in the box and connect them. After an hour of trying I found the best way to do this was to wedge the intravee from the inside of the car and push in the cables from the boot. This will be very easy if there are two of you or you have hands the size of a childs. Lastly connect your Ipod.
Image
Step 19
Connect the battery and check everything is working. If all is well reassemble after disconnecting the battery. I started from the radio and worked backwards finishing in the boot. Begin with the screen and radio. I found that I couldn't get the screen to screw down level by screwing in the first two screws at the front of the screen. I decided the only way of getting it any better was by cable tying it down, then screw it down from the back and then clip the cover at the rear. I've looked at a couple of sat navs fitted by BMW and none of them sit flush on the right hand side. So done the best I could. Then just work your way forward cliping in and screwing down the centre console not forgetting to reconnect any cabling dsconnected. Then reconnect your battery and check everything again.

Tips
Allow plenty of time. I allowed 2 days but still found that I encountred problems (rain, lack of information and tools) which caused me to take longer, so was driving my car with a hole in the dash and trim panelling missing for about a week.

When cutting the hole in the dash ensure that you dont cut the prongs too short at the rear. I did, dispite cutting them long enough according to the template. This then caused me to drill the holes at an angle which then meant screwing the screen down, pulled it away from the front of the dash.

Use the forum for advice and information.

Good luck
Last edited by jamiecarpenter on Tue Aug 24, 2010 11:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
Silver Grey 3.0 si 06. Retrofitted sat nav, Cruise Control, Intravee, Door Cards and Heated Seats.

jamiez
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 1913
Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2008 8:42 am
Location: SW London

Re: Satnav and intravee Retrofit

Post by jamiez » Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:17 pm

Nice !

What radio/hifi is in your car? Noticed that your radio rubber buttons have a silver edge - i dont on mine???
Z4MC | Midnight Blue | OEM CSL's + MPSS | Extended Light Sepang Leather | Folding Mirrors | Stubby| BT | Prof Nav | DSP HiFi | Intravee | Privacy | Illuminated ZHP…

User avatar
gannet
Lifer
Lifer
Posts: 10086
Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 11:45 am
Location: Surrey

Re: Satnav and intravee Retrofit

Post by gannet » Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:26 pm

good job and nice write up :thumbsup:

Think I will stick with the TomTom though :o
-- Gannet.
Current: MINI JCW... - Modification: Driver Upgraded :D
Previous: DS3 DSport, Z4 3.0SE, 206 GTi & XS, Alfa 147 Lusso

User avatar
jamiecarpenter
Member
Member
Posts: 310
Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 10:11 am
Location: Coventry

Re: Satnav and intravee Retrofit

Post by jamiecarpenter » Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:29 pm

Think its the 10 speaker system as I have DSP. Bought my radio from Soper Lincoln as I traded my old Business one in with them for about £90. They gave me the buttons for nothing, as they dont come with the radio so they must be able to order them seperately. Apparently they nolonger make the Proffesional Radio. As I understood it they recondition old ones with new parts and put a dual tuner in. Still bloody expensive though.
Silver Grey 3.0 si 06. Retrofitted sat nav, Cruise Control, Intravee, Door Cards and Heated Seats.


nahodo
Member
Member
Posts: 89
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:20 am

Re: Satnav and intravee Retrofit

Post by nahodo » Thu Jul 07, 2011 4:05 pm

Looks great - do you have the grey or black version of the nav display?
my Z4 with a lot of mods..
[urlhttp://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=29419[/url]
Image
Image

Post Reply