Remapped my Zed

[Maniac]

hi,all as this is my first post hope I get it right. car is a 35i [what a car] well I have had a remap done and now it is like a rocket ship.
numbers are360 b.h.p and torque is 471 well pleased at 200 pounds.

Welcome, say hi in the newbies section if you haven't already.

With regard to the remap, the figures you quote have been reports by a rolling road/official measurement or what we're told to you by a remapper? Any concerns about stress on turbos etc?

[R.E92]

One thing I do want to know for curiosities sake is that there seems to be 2 versions of the K+DCAN cable, one around the £30 mark with a switch above the label and the other about half that price with no switch. What is the actual difference between these cables?

There a few different types floating around at any one time.

The cables with the switch are probably just to add compatibility with older models. There are a couple of pins that need to be bridged on newer cars that use D-CAN cars.

Most cables look similar but in my experience the cheap eBay ones (below £20) are either KLine cables labelled up as D-CAN or use counterfeit FTDI chips which don't work correctly. (there's also an issue with Windows drivers purposefully corrupting fake FTDI chips)

I got my current working one from "cable-shack" on ebay. Cost about £30~ and has worked fine for 2 years in INPA/ISTA and MHD.

[techathy]

I got mine from cable-shack as that's who everyone in the UK seems to recommended. About £37 + P&P. Could have got what looks to be a very similar item for about £30 delivered but spending an extra £10 to get a known good item compared to getting a bricked ECU sorted seemed like great VFM.

[R.E92]

If you want a quality OTG cable then grab one of these;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Genu ... 1940209009

It's the only decent quality branded OTG cable I've managed to find. The rest seem to cheap chinese ones which I don't trust with my car

[techathy]

I just used the USB-A port in my tablet

[stuartinzg]

One thing I do want to know for curiosities sake is that there seems to be 2 versions of the K+DCAN cable, one around the £30 mark with a switch above the label and the other about half that price with no switch. What is the actual difference between these cables?

There a few different types floating around at any one time.

The cables with the switch are probably just to add compatibility with older models. There are a couple of pins that need to be bridged on newer cars that use D-CAN cars.

Most cables look similar but in my experience the cheap eBay ones (below £20) are either KLine cables labelled up as D-CAN or use counterfeit FTDI chips which don't work correctly. (there's also an issue with Windows drivers purposefully corrupting fake FTDI chips)

I got my current working one from "cable-shack" on ebay. Cost about £30~ and has worked fine for 2 years in INPA/ISTA and MHD.

How do I know if the cable I've bought is up to the challenge? It seems to backup the ECU fine and perform data logging etc. Now i'm worried about doing the flash in case something goes wrong with the cable after this "failed" attempt. Any way to know if it can handle the data transfer in advance with some sort of mock testing?

[R.E92]

If it managed the ECU backup then it's fine.

[techathy]

Finally got around to filling the tank up. A rather respectable 27.3mpg considering it spend a long time on a rolling road in low gears & large throttle openings.