Roof issues

[roger1]

I sorted out my roof on 2013 20i. Did a search and no diy guides here so thought I would post. Ordered repair manual on ebay for 15 quid 5500 odd pages!, BMW Inpa v57 software, cable etc.
Basically the rear module intermittently continued to try to close even when it appeared closed meaning the hydraulic pump would whirr away and the glass wouldn't drop when closing (pressing and releasing the button a few times or opening the module a little and closing fixed it)and when opening the same when the module shut when roof was stowed meaning the windows wouldn't go up and an error registered. Driving along and occasional roof open messages would flash, opening and closing would fix it .
Anyway thought Id fix it.In retrospect I wouldn't have bothered with INPA as this took over a day to install and operate nightmare it was obviously one of the two sensors on the module sides. Anyway v57 confirmed it was the right module closed sensor. So ordered up for 15 quid and with no instructions in the manual to change it I removed the trim over the right suspension turret with the module open. I disconnected the clip on the scissors hinge on the right most part of the boot lid that just slides off. I pulled the scissors off the boot hinge, 3 x size 13mm Nuts hold the right hinge assembly to the car , this removed, the switch was held on with two pan head allen bolts that are threadlocked, one was removed the others head stripped, I snapped the switch off with a screwdriver and this released the screw. A dremel would have been handy here to cut a slot for a screwdriver and a heat gun to loosen the threadlock in retrospect. Be careful no screws or nuts fall down the side of the suspension turret into the boot as they will be lost. Stuffing the area with newspaper would be very very wise then as I lost one nut that held the hinge assembly on and the stripped allen bolt for the microswitch. I had spare bolt that I had to dremel cut off as too long and would interfere with the mechanism. The next problem was the loom was different on old switch as new one. The new one was waterproof and old one wasn't. I was unsure if the wires had polarity so opened the old switch. It is not a pure on off switch with a circuit board and two micro resistors The new switch registered 500 ohms closed and 1500 open. I took a gamble and cut old plug and 2 inches off old switch and soldered with heat shrink to new switch and wrapped with electrical tape. Threadlock the allen screws to the switch as don't want them coming loose later, tighten the 3 nuts or in my case 2 as I lost one which is ok for moment. The hinge can slide before the nuts a re tightened. Go across to other side and note where the other side is by measuring with a ruler and copy it OR MARK BEFORE UNDOING IT. I copied the other side and was perfect.
MAKE SURE TO CONNECT THE HINGE TO THE BOOT LID(I FORGOT BUT CAUGHT IT IN TIME BEFORE SOMETHING BROKE THANK GOD!) and replace the circlip which slides on.
Replace the trim MAKING SURE THAT SECTION NEAR THE SUSPENSION TURRET HAS A HALF CM CLEARANCE like the other side it will want to rub against the hinge of the glass roof section if placed improperly which will probably break something. The trim is replaced using simple push clips that fit into expanding rawplugs that come out with a screwdriver under them. I had to take a few clips from adjacent trim and all 4 out of the trim that holds the safety net to car to remove the last clip as its hidden under it.
Ensure the rubber boot seal is correctly located onto the car as this goes over the trim and needs to be loosened up to get the trim back.
Job done, REENSURE THE HINGE IS ON THE BOOT LID AS ABOVE, test it and if not smooth on latching then move the hinge slightly each way and test it

Job done time for a coffee!

[roger1]

In retrospect I wouldn't bother with the Inpa and just replace both left and right switchs on the rear module.
Definitely have a soldering iron and solder to heat the microswitch bolts to loosen the threadlock, and to resolder the old switch loom on new one if need be, and a dremel to cut a slot on old one and Block the boot space with newspaper or plastic sheeting as all nuts will roll down the curved wheel into the side of the boot that are very timeconsuming to get out.
This was the part for the right module part http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/54377228586/

[Maniac]

My mind has gone blank reading that.

[roger1]

Unsure why they are detailed instructions to repair the roof. Or one could spend 300 fixing it. What happens then the other side fails and its another 300. I fixed it for 20 quid. These cars are getting old now although mine is a 2013 and there are no diy instructions to fix it.

Incidentally once I couldn't raise or lower roof to fix the roof open indicator as the boot partition wasn't lowered and it wouldn't let me into the boot. Leaving the car for 5 hours allowed access into the boot. With V57 Inpa in the Junction box electronics section JBE the boot can be commanded open incidentally.

[flybobbie]

It's interesting to discover the micro switches have resistors in them.
I suspect a simple way of monitoring if open circuit. (or dodgy solder joints on the resistors giving false readings?).
Could explain some of the problems with the roof and warnings being thrown up.
My colleagues car started playing up again a few weeks ago with roof not locked bongs and then stopped.

[roger1]

Also the new switches have micro rubber bungs sealing humidity out of the connectors. Likely any humidity will corrode the connectors changing resistance. Mine is 2013 but build date is mid 12 an has old style connectors
The bonging of roof open will get worse over time and the worst part is if a sensor fails open indicating its open when not and the boot partition is not down the danger is it wont be possible to lower the roof to fix it possibly and raise it to reset the sensor and also the boot wont open.
Keep the partition down at all time peeps. Personally I would get INPA and V57 software if only to force the boot open if ever needed to lower the partition.
Its a very poor engineering exercise where there is no way to override the boot. What if the electric lock fails closed, an angle grinder?There should be a Bowden cable to the passenger cabin to open it.

[DinosaurEyes]

Cheers for the useful info!

Might be worth moving this over to the "How To" section of the forum and breaking it down into some steps (with some pics if you have any), to make it a bit easier to digest.

[roger1]

Mods feel free to move it to the how to section.
Wrt pics I don't have any but its pretty self explanatory once you get in there and have a look and around 2 hours work and 15 quid(or 30 and 3 hours say if you don't have INPA and v57 and are doing both)if you have the tools mentioned. Top tip is do one side at a time to compare things .
This how do guide is ONLY for the rear module or the rear flip up lid closed sensors left and right it will work if you have symptoms on closing the hard top where the rear flip up lid comes down, and the glass segment on top of the roof refuses to come down with the module visably moving up and down slightly as the button continues to be pressed. Opening and closing the module or indeed continuing to hold down the closed button usually fixes it and the rear screen drops.
Occasional bongs of roof open also may be due to these 2 sensors but of course that could be any of the many microswitches or hall sensors so isn't exclusive but the classic sign of these is the rear module lid is closed but the next stage isn't carried out as the computer thinks its still open.

[flybobbie]

Nice diagram;
http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/show ... bly=256819