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Meyle HD control arms and bushes
- vester86
- Member
- Posts: 333
- Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2016 10:49 pm
Meyle HD control arms and bushes
i have them on for about 10000 miles now, no complaints at all
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- Member
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Mon May 23, 2016 2:46 pm
- Location: Pontypridd, S Wales
Meyle HD control arms and bushes
Blowtorch and angle grinder , one of these would have saved a lot of hassle for you - http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/tools ... GwodI0ADTAJez_m wrote: ↑Mon Apr 24, 2017 10:52 amI bought these (minus link rods as they were done previously) and fitted at the weekend. My control arms were the original arms and had never been off the car.. wow, they put up some fight! The arms were pretty much fused to the car at the steering knuckle and subframe and required copious amounts of blow torch, angle grider and pry bar to free the arms from the car! Satisfying work... but time consuming. Took a few hours to remove the old and literally 30 mins to fit the new ones. Which are very good quality by the way, would def recommend.Ant wrote: ↑Sat Mar 04, 2017 10:21 pm lol £900 f**k that
i have msport suspension and meylehd bushes and control arms, did control arms,rtabs, powerflex anti roll bushes fitted front/back etc last year
control arms cost me 200 iirc all the bushes etc about another 120 all in, another 120 or so fitting , nowhere near what you're getting quoted
and for a fair bit more than just the front control arms.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E46-Z4-E8 ... 1247361555
is what went on my 3.0i with msport suspension (got them from that seller as well actually)
End result, front end feels nice and tight again. Steering feel and placement of the car on the road 100 times better. It also fixed the 'wandering' that i was getting from the car over 60mph.
I did mine last weekend, Meyle HD arms bushes and droplink, the originals were well and truly seized in , I first tried my screw type balljoint separator , the idea is you put compression on the top of the threaded rod then give the upright housing a tap with a hammer to shock it, usually they pop right out, this time however there was no such luck, a 2lb hammer and the fork separator were required for both sides!
As you say though, easy to fit the new ones!
Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the blind obedience of fools - Colin Chapman
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- Member
- Posts: 81
- Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:18 pm
Meyle HD control arms and bushes
I have one of those in the link! Spent about 30 mins smashing it with a steel hammer in to the arm joint. Would not separate until i introduced the heat!Artful-Bodger wrote: ↑Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:53 pmBlowtorch and angle grinder , one of these would have saved a lot of hassle for you - http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/tools ... GwodI0ADTAJez_m wrote: ↑Mon Apr 24, 2017 10:52 amI bought these (minus link rods as they were done previously) and fitted at the weekend. My control arms were the original arms and had never been off the car.. wow, they put up some fight! The arms were pretty much fused to the car at the steering knuckle and subframe and required copious amounts of blow torch, angle grider and pry bar to free the arms from the car! Satisfying work... but time consuming. Took a few hours to remove the old and literally 30 mins to fit the new ones. Which are very good quality by the way, would def recommend.Ant wrote: ↑Sat Mar 04, 2017 10:21 pm lol £900 f**k that
i have msport suspension and meylehd bushes and control arms, did control arms,rtabs, powerflex anti roll bushes fitted front/back etc last year
control arms cost me 200 iirc all the bushes etc about another 120 all in, another 120 or so fitting , nowhere near what you're getting quoted
and for a fair bit more than just the front control arms.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E46-Z4-E8 ... 1247361555
is what went on my 3.0i with msport suspension (got them from that seller as well actually)
End result, front end feels nice and tight again. Steering feel and placement of the car on the road 100 times better. It also fixed the 'wandering' that i was getting from the car over 60mph.
I did mine last weekend, Meyle HD arms bushes and droplink, the originals were well and truly seized in , I first tried my screw type balljoint separator , the idea is you put compression on the top of the threaded rod then give the upright housing a tap with a hammer to shock it, usually they pop right out, this time however there was no such luck, a 2lb hammer and the fork separator were required for both sides!
As you say though, easy to fit the new ones!
The angle grinder was for a seized and threaded bolt. A nightmare to get to.. it was the one that sits on top of the inner subframe mount..
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- Member
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Mon May 23, 2016 2:46 pm
- Location: Pontypridd, S Wales
Meyle HD control arms and bushes
Aww man, that just turns the whole job into an embuggerance!Jez_m wrote: ↑Mon Apr 24, 2017 4:49 pmI have one of those in the link! Spent about 30 mins smashing it with a steel hammer in to the arm joint. Would not separate until i introduced the heat!Artful-Bodger wrote: ↑Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:53 pmBlowtorch and angle grinder , one of these would have saved a lot of hassle for you - http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/tools ... GwodI0ADTAJez_m wrote: ↑Mon Apr 24, 2017 10:52 am
I bought these (minus link rods as they were done previously) and fitted at the weekend. My control arms were the original arms and had never been off the car.. wow, they put up some fight! The arms were pretty much fused to the car at the steering knuckle and subframe and required copious amounts of blow torch, angle grider and pry bar to free the arms from the car! Satisfying work... but time consuming. Took a few hours to remove the old and literally 30 mins to fit the new ones. Which are very good quality by the way, would def recommend.
End result, front end feels nice and tight again. Steering feel and placement of the car on the road 100 times better. It also fixed the 'wandering' that i was getting from the car over 60mph.
I did mine last weekend, Meyle HD arms bushes and droplink, the originals were well and truly seized in , I first tried my screw type balljoint separator , the idea is you put compression on the top of the threaded rod then give the upright housing a tap with a hammer to shock it, usually they pop right out, this time however there was no such luck, a 2lb hammer and the fork separator were required for both sides!
As you say though, easy to fit the new ones!
The angle grinder was for a seized and threaded bolt. A nightmare to get to.. it was the one that sits on top of the inner subframe mount..
Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the blind obedience of fools - Colin Chapman