updating 6 speaker setup

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dhobbs

Senior member
Is it possible to disconnect the rear mids and connect them to some sub woofers?
I know getting to the rear mids is a pain, but can you get to the wiring from the boot.

Just thinking of getting the subs as I have the cubby holes (useless) but don't want to completely strip the rear trim.

Thanks
 
Personally I would replace the head unit and run RCA's + remote lead to the boot down the passenger side to feed an amp and subs.

I would then leave the rear mids connected but fade more to the front speakers. At the moment i have my front on +5 fade (on an aftermarket Alpine Head Unit). Or even fade it all the way forward if you don't want to hear anything out of them.
 
Don't really want to change the head unit. I plan on putting some focals in the doors first. Just thinking of an easy upgrade for the rears.
Maybe next would be an amp but nothing too showcase (or expensive)
 
Wanted to share my thoughts and learnings as I've been reading up on this in old forum posts over the last few weeks as i'd like a bit of extra bass too. I have the same system as you, except i've replaced the head unit but still not happy with the sound.

I think you will struggle to power any form of sub in the boot or cubby holes without an amp.

I think the max size sub woofers that will fit in the cubby hole space would be 6.5" on some kind of MDF mount. However this size is relatively rare, most are 8, 10 or 12 inches. And from reading other posts people who have mounted 6.5" subs in these locations say the result wasn't quite as good as they expected, and in heindsight they would have mounted 8 or 10 inch subs in the boot.

Although subs in the boot come with their own problems such as rattles so some sound deadening may be required.

There's the option of removing the rear parcel shelf to reduce rattles(plastic bit in the boot), but someone pointed out that when this is out and the roof is up people could see directly into the boot.

I'm still a bit unsure on what to do, I think I am going to put one or two 8 inch subs in the boot, possibly in a custom mdf box unless I can find a premade box which is under 30cm in height and depth. I will then install a basic amp and run this off the aftermarket head unit.

I think you can still run an aftermarket amp from the business head unit, but you may need an adapter (not really looked into it so could be totally wrong here).

My guestimates are, amp £70, Subs and box £100-£150. Nothing fancy, just some cheap Fli's or something to provide some bass.

Was also looking at upgrading the front speakers, 6.5" in the footwells (but you need to make some mdf adapters to fit oem holes) 4" (10cm) in the door. There's currently no speaker in the door. Other people have tapped into the feed to the tweeter which is apparantly full range, and run a mid or 2 way 10cm to the door.

What my plan is for the front to start with is, keep the existing footwell and tweeter. Buy some secondhand OEM BMW 3 hole mids for the door (for quick and easy fitment) and run off the tweeter feed, and fit the subs.

If this doesn't provide the sound I want, I will then look at replacing and possibly amplifying the fronts, but that's when it starts getting expensive, time consuming and space wasting.

Hope this helps.

Dan
 
Thanks for the advice. I was thinking of the focal 3 way kit (door and footwell) but start with the door and see how that goes.
When I said subs I was meaning what bmw call the cubby hole things. Personally I think the current sound is very muffled and my aim is clarity over sheer power.
I've read the focals need driving a bit hence the amp.
I need to take the door card off as the drivers side is leaking, kill two birds with one stone.
 
Thanks for the advice. I was thinking of the focal 3 way kit (door and footwell) but start with the door and see how that goes.
When I said subs I was meaning what bmw call the cubby hole things. Personally I think the current sound is very muffled and my aim is clarity over sheer power.
I've read the focals need driving a bit hence the amp.
I need to take the door card off as the drivers side is leaking, kill two birds with one stone.
 
Have a search for the Bav audio video on you tube. Great clip of removing the door cards.

Also highly recommend some plastic trim removal tools from amazon. I've used several times now and theyre great! If only i'd had these for the last 10 years would have saved lots of scratched trim and hands!

I got this one but it was only £12 at the time. Might find similar cheaper on ebay.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/PIECE-CAR-TRIM-REMOVAL-MOULDING/dp/B004OEL4LW/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1

Or this one looks similar for £7.05. However i cant vouch for the quality as i havent used this one first hand.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-731768-Trim-Remover-Pieces/dp/B004P3VQEC/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0
 
Dan has summed up aftermarket audio in a zed really well, though I wholeheartedly disagree about even thinking to suggest fli.

Leave all those halfords brands (fli, edge, vibe) for all the halfords boy racers.

Generally speaking however it depends on what your final goal is...if you swap your oem kit for focals and get a good amp on them and most importantly, install them properly, then you'll be pleasantly surprised that you don't need a subwoofer (I can run my hertz hi-energy components without a sub and they're able to get nice and low whilst still sounding fantastic)

As for the sub...do an 8" in the boot. Something like this... http://www.jlaudio.com/cp108lg-w3v3-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93133

with a 3 or 4 channel amplifier, and upgrade your headunit and you'll have yourself a nice system.

I know that a budget has not been mentioned thus far, however it would be advisable to have one.

Regardless of what you do go for, some sound deadening will go a long way to helping your equipment sound its best.

Feel free to pm me and if we're local, I don't mind helping with the install too. (I ended up doing mine in the cold and never really enjoyed doing it :thumbsdown: )
 
Thanks
Seen the video, looks very easy. Already got the tools and some ct1 to re glue the weather shield back. Just need the time and the speakers, oh and some decent weather.

Daz
 
Apologies for recommending Fli :oops:

I've never used them so shouldn't really recommend, just seen they are in the entry level price range, but obviously for a reason.

In previous cars i've always stuck with Pioneer head units and speakers and not been dissapointed. But since having a company car for the last few years i've lost touch a bit.

But after recently getting the zed as my weekend hobby car I can't wait to get my hands dirty in running cables and mounting speakers :)
 
Neil,

Just had a browse of your pics on flickr, what speakers did you mount in your cubby holes?

Cheers
Dan
 
Danderton, for entry level...JBL. It's the only way to get relatively good sound without needing to sell a kidney.

The rears for me...

JBL GTO-607c woofers, Hertz hi-energy crossover and an american legacy bullet tweeter.

All on a high pass filter at 100Hz resulting in a really hard mid bass punch and crisp highs (which was my aim for this)

Up front I've a set of hertz hi-energy components (2 way) being run active.

Pioneer units are golden. Along with Alpine, they are the only two brands I'd ever recommend personally.

The zed is perfect for running speaker cables (I ran straight cables for my front stage direct to the amplifier).

Also one last note, if you're upgrading mids and highs (not subs) you're better off to upgrade your front speakers first and then your rears.
 
No idea from the top of my head...will measure when I'm back in the country.

(i've a feeling its 12mm.)
 
Thanks for all the advice. I've heard good things about both hertz and focal components.
I did look into a head unit change, one that was a dedicated usb player, but thought I'd go down the speaker route first, well the doors first anyway.
I've read that the doors have blanking plates which can be modified to accept normal speaker mounts. Time to get my hands dirty and see what I've got.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I've heard good things about both hertz and focal components.
I did look into a head unit change, one that was a dedicated usb player, but thought I'd go down the speaker route first, well the doors first anyway.
I've read that the doors have blanking plates which can be modified to accept normal speaker mounts. Time to get my hands dirty and see what I've got.
 
dhobbs said:
Thanks for the advice. I was thinking of the focal 3 way kit (door and footwell) but start with the door and see how that goes.
Click to expand...
Which kit is this and is it a direct replacement? Do you have a link?

Thanks
 
PerryGunn said:
dhobbs said:
Thanks for the advice. I was thinking of the focal 3 way kit (door and footwell) but start with the door and see how that goes.
Click to expand...
Which kit is this and is it a direct replacement? Do you have a link?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Sorry for the slow reply.
They are not direct replacements, but I think they are the right sizes.
If you look at the focal website they have all the details. Also on ebay for about £150.
You get a 4inch mid, 6.5 inch (iirc) sub plus a tweeter. I doubt any of the mounting holes mate up though!
 
Is there any reason you specifically want a 3 way kit aside from there being a provision for one?
 
NeilP said:
Is there any reason you specifically want a 3 way kit aside from there being a provision for one?
Click to expand...
I would like something which is a nice, easy upgrade

I only have the boggo 6-speaker setup, and I know that replacing the rear speakers is supposed to be a bit of a nightmare, so, to me, replacing the tweeters, footwell speakers and adding the door speakers by splitting the tweeter feed sounds like a fairly straightforward way to go

I just don't know which set of speakers would be the most sensible choice
 
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